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ldyzluvdis06

ldyzluvdis06

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Decided to up the fuel system while waiting on engine to be completed. Ditching the 255 intank pump and replaced with a walbro 450. Also replacing my dw350 inline aux pump and installing a magnafuel 750 in its place.

Oe spindles removed and working on installing the drag spindles to accommodate the 15's. New milwaukee m18 grinder was delivered yesterday, to help with clearancing for the wheels. 😂

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Lead Pipe

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Decided to up the fuel system while waiting on engine to be completed. Ditching the 255 intank pump and replaced with a walbro 450. Also replacing my dw350 inline aux pump and installing a magnafuel 750 in its place.

Oe spindles removed and working on installing the drag spindles to accommodate the 15's. New milwaukee m18 grinder was delivered yesterday, to help with clearancing for the wheels. 😂

View attachment 84348

View attachment 84349

View attachment 84350
I'm interested to see how much material you remove.
 
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ldyzluvdis06

ldyzluvdis06

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Determined the cause of the 5.7 failure was the thrust washer. Need to go through the drive train and determine the actual cause of that failure now, to no recreate the same issue on the new engine.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Thrust washer? You're referring to the thrust bearing on the mains?

I think a large amount of blame of that issue on manual trans cars is having to start the engine with your clutch depressed and the bearings are dry till oil gets to em.

On Auto cars I know converters can balloon at high internal pressures and dont always stay balooned at rest.
 
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ldyzluvdis06

ldyzluvdis06

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Sorry, I meant bearing. After further research it appears that going to the solid aluminum torque tube couplers seem to have caused the problem. Going back to a factory set to replace the aluminum ones
 

DEEZUZ

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Thrust washer? You're referring to the thrust bearing on the mains?

I think a large amount of blame of that issue on manual trans cars is having to start the engine with your clutch depressed and the bearings are dry till oil gets to em.

On Auto cars I know converters can balloon at high internal pressures and dont always stay balooned at rest.
This is the second time I've seen you say this. What makes you think this?

Like explain it to me like I'm 5
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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The worst time to put a load on a oil film bearing is when there is no oil say a cold start either overnight or a week or two from now.
Most Babbitt wear is during dry starts after all the oil has left the mains and passages and drained down to the pan.

So for up to 30 seconds.....no oil

And you're shoving the crankshaft forward through the thrust bearing with 600+ lb diaphragm Springs.


Almost every car I've come across with a manual trans and any money put into the motor usually does not have a clutch pedal switch they usually have a shifter switch that requires them to put the shifter to one end of neutral depressing a switch for them to start the car.

The worse crank end play gets the more everything else inside the motor has to jostle around to accommodate it every time you depress and release the clutch all of the rods, the wrist pins everything is moving around because they typically don't have much side play except at the wrist pin boss.... so now not only are your rods oscillating up and down they are now able to oscillate fore-and-aft as you bang through the gears.

During each dry start your likely wearing the edges of your rod bearings as well as increasing side clearance and this provides the overall effect of lowering bearing contact area while at the same time also reducing the oil pressure it sees.



Basically, no oil no load. If you have a pre Luber you'd probably be fine I do but I generally try to avoid excessive wear-and-tear that eventually causes everything to loosen up.
 

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