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Suck or not suck?
- Thread starter MarauderBC4E
- Start date
This may have some truth to it but the PVC you installed works with vacuum.
LOL that would be true if i didnt modify it! i must admit i love a tech discussion
im going to see what my overall opinion of this setup is over the summer, if me no likey ill install a Draft42 ultimate catch can.
I read this article and it shed a lot of light on how the PCV system works. Crankcase ventilation system - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The passenger side PCV is connected to a vacuum port. The drivers side is actually there to provide filtered fresh air into the crankcase. This air runs through the crank case and returns into the intake. It makes a lot of sense to me now why there is only one PCV valve and it is on the passenger side.
The way I want to do it is to use the venturi created by the exhaust to pull from the drivers side valve cover through a PCV and a catch can. The amount of oil going into the exhaust will be tiny. Fresh air will be drawn in from the breather on the second catch can connected to the passenger side valve cover.
Read the wiki!
The way I want to do it is to use the venturi created by the exhaust to pull from the drivers side valve cover through a PCV and a catch can. The amount of oil going into the exhaust will be tiny. Fresh air will be drawn in from the breather on the second catch can connected to the passenger side valve cover.
Read the wiki!
If its on Wiki then it's got to be true. LOL!!
Seriously Ron I think everyone here already knew the pathway our pcv track takes coming in/out of the crankcase. I think you may be in for a real surprise when you find out just how much oil is going to enter your exhaust. Marauder engines, wait modular engines are prone to ALOT of blow by through the vent system. No two cars will produce the same amount of blow by. One other thing to keep in mind is there's also a lot of steam and water produced by the crankcase.
Dumping blow by into the exhaust is nothing new all mfg's did it in the muscle car era but with the introduction of catalytic convertors I don't think it's an ideal way to vent the crankcase. Not to mention if you have any aluminized steel in your current exhaust setup. It will rust faster once you start dumping water and steam into the exhaust. The best case scenario would be to go catless with a full stainless exhaust.
Have either of you guys considered a mechanical crankcase pump? all the serious drag racers use them some guys claim to have made 96~99 Cobra smog pumps work. I went down this road myself and beta tested it and at best I got 3~6" of vacuum. There are companies out there that modify them to get 22" of vacuum which is ideal for drag racing, electric cars, and diesel applications.
Here is a good read on the benefits of positive crankcase pressure:
http://www.dragraceresults.com/fullstory.cfm?id=4945&title=Vacuum_Pumps_-_Why_Use_Them_by_Greg_Zucco
Seriously Ron I think everyone here already knew the pathway our pcv track takes coming in/out of the crankcase. I think you may be in for a real surprise when you find out just how much oil is going to enter your exhaust. Marauder engines, wait modular engines are prone to ALOT of blow by through the vent system. No two cars will produce the same amount of blow by. One other thing to keep in mind is there's also a lot of steam and water produced by the crankcase.
Dumping blow by into the exhaust is nothing new all mfg's did it in the muscle car era but with the introduction of catalytic convertors I don't think it's an ideal way to vent the crankcase. Not to mention if you have any aluminized steel in your current exhaust setup. It will rust faster once you start dumping water and steam into the exhaust. The best case scenario would be to go catless with a full stainless exhaust.
Have either of you guys considered a mechanical crankcase pump? all the serious drag racers use them some guys claim to have made 96~99 Cobra smog pumps work. I went down this road myself and beta tested it and at best I got 3~6" of vacuum. There are companies out there that modify them to get 22" of vacuum which is ideal for drag racing, electric cars, and diesel applications.
Here is a good read on the benefits of positive crankcase pressure:
http://www.dragraceresults.com/fullstory.cfm?id=4945&title=Vacuum_Pumps_-_Why_Use_Them_by_Greg_Zucco
Everyone else posted pics of their setup. Here's what I did on my setup.
On the PS I'm running a JLT separator. Note if you have oil on the PS and your running a closed loop setup your pcv valve is DOA
On the DS I built a hybrid V3 of my existing catch can. I also built my own hard lines to prevent collapsing the pcv track at idle
The can I'm currently running is 750ml which is much taller than the cans I've fabricated in the past. I wanted -0- chance of oil getting into my Trilogy so I made some revisions and used my MM as a test mule. I revised the location of my filter then added a second filter element. Instead of being half way down the can it now resides at the top and I kept the closed element design to prevent contamination. The long tube with the holes is the inlet. It got wrapped in SS weave material and this media also resides in the base of the can to keep wet oil weighted and at the base when vacuum occurs. So far I have fabricated 3 copies and so far so good. Only 1 got the tall can the other 2 are the 12oz short cans.
One thing I would also like to add is I got rid of my EGR valve. You wouldn't believe how much contamination this devise will do to your upper intake track.
On the PS I'm running a JLT separator. Note if you have oil on the PS and your running a closed loop setup your pcv valve is DOA
On the DS I built a hybrid V3 of my existing catch can. I also built my own hard lines to prevent collapsing the pcv track at idle
The can I'm currently running is 750ml which is much taller than the cans I've fabricated in the past. I wanted -0- chance of oil getting into my Trilogy so I made some revisions and used my MM as a test mule. I revised the location of my filter then added a second filter element. Instead of being half way down the can it now resides at the top and I kept the closed element design to prevent contamination. The long tube with the holes is the inlet. It got wrapped in SS weave material and this media also resides in the base of the can to keep wet oil weighted and at the base when vacuum occurs. So far I have fabricated 3 copies and so far so good. Only 1 got the tall can the other 2 are the 12oz short cans.
One thing I would also like to add is I got rid of my EGR valve. You wouldn't believe how much contamination this devise will do to your upper intake track.
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