have you tried to swap sensors, maybe it’s jacked up, was the exchanger in the blower new? Could have scale or some sort of flow restriction limiting cooling, if the blower outlet temp really is that high I could see it making the motor run hotter than it should, I know the gm blowers run a little hotter than what I was used to but mainly just on wot runs
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have you tried to swap sensors, maybe it’s jacked up, was the exchanger in the blower new? Could have scale or some sort of flow restriction limiting cooling, if the blower outlet temp really is that high I could see it making the motor run hotter than it should, I know the gm blowers run a little hotter than what I was used to but mainly just on wot runs
Take the hood off. That or put super long bolts in the hinges to the hood, with spacers. Try at LEAST an inch. See if that changes anthing driving. Some engine compartments are too sealed to get good enough airflow after mods. The air just backs up and creates pressure under the hood. You can also take out the rubber seal at the cowl. If it stays cool without a hood than you have a direction to go.
"Technically" yes the exchanger bricks are new. Blower had less than 100 miles on it. I stripped it clean before it went to Bob to. He flow checked the bricks and they were fine. Swapped sensors and no change. One thing was the harness was extended and used wrong gauge wire. He corrected that, but I just bought a new harnes for it anyway. He said it changed a little but not much.
Fasterproms made a thermal reduction plate for LT4s that fit on the runners to deflect heat transfer from head to blower, but the wont respond and are out of stock. FI Interchillers is working on some but are several weeks out. If u can figure out the interchiller not getting cold enough issue, maybe it'll help.
Hood was removed and drove around and no change. I currently have the lower cover and cowl seal removed and I really dont see a deviation on temp change. Cowl seal removal was recommended though.Take the hood off. That or put super long bolts in the hinges to the hood, with spacers. Try at LEAST an inch. See if that changes anthing driving. Some engine compartments are too sealed to get good enough airflow after mods. The air just backs up and creates pressure under the hood. You can also take out the rubber seal at the cowl. If it stays cool without a hood than you have a direction to go.
Trust me, I know it traps a crap ton under there.
I mean with everything on it, it should not see over 110 IAT on a hot day. Normally the 20-30 degree over ambient rule.
Thanks, I am but it's getting rough. I went waaaaaaaaay too deep down that rabbit hole chasing my wallet.Damn sorry to hear it's still not rightKeep fighting the good fight!
Was just hoping to have it done before baby girl gets here. Which may be sooner than due date.
I was able to put some time in on the truck. I hot the condenser fan mounted up and hot wired. Slight issue that will get worked out. Fan is wired to turn on when interchiller only is on and off when its both chiller/cabin. Problem is when I key off the fan turns in no matter what. So that needs addressed.
Since adding the fan, coolant temps are where I want them but its still strange to me. Starting out coolant temo was 78° on an 82° day. At Idle with for 20 minutes cabin/chiller setting temps were at 43° then switch to chiller only and they dropped to 32°. The entire time IATs read 87°, close the hood and then they went 97-104°. Start driving, goes up a little, do a pull they go fairly high then drop to the 120-134° range and never lower. BUT I noticed at those temps sitting idle knowing the chiller is cooling the coolant down to those levels again IATs never faulter... so I put it in park, no different than in drive and idling and temps plummet.
For all that's done, I really am trying to wrap my head around why its not reading at icebox temps.
Its coming down to pulling the blower off and relocating the IAT2/MAT sensor. Its baking at the back of the blower. Also ordered thermal blanket wrap and hoping to get some thermal reduction plates whenever FIinterchiller makes them.
I just wanna rip on this thing already. The 04 had its headaches but never to this extent.
Since adding the fan, coolant temps are where I want them but its still strange to me. Starting out coolant temo was 78° on an 82° day. At Idle with for 20 minutes cabin/chiller setting temps were at 43° then switch to chiller only and they dropped to 32°. The entire time IATs read 87°, close the hood and then they went 97-104°. Start driving, goes up a little, do a pull they go fairly high then drop to the 120-134° range and never lower. BUT I noticed at those temps sitting idle knowing the chiller is cooling the coolant down to those levels again IATs never faulter... so I put it in park, no different than in drive and idling and temps plummet.
For all that's done, I really am trying to wrap my head around why its not reading at icebox temps.
Its coming down to pulling the blower off and relocating the IAT2/MAT sensor. Its baking at the back of the blower. Also ordered thermal blanket wrap and hoping to get some thermal reduction plates whenever FIinterchiller makes them.
I just wanna rip on this thing already. The 04 had its headaches but never to this extent.
Oh, so I was running a Lingenfelter 160° thermostat and was still getting 220+ engine temps. Altered fan settings and it never dropped.
I installed the Katech 160, and phew!! Sittinv in the 170-184 range now depending on ambient temps
I installed the Katech 160, and phew!! Sittinv in the 170-184 range now depending on ambient temps
I'm trying, it just seems like its never ending. All simple things, should've been a straight forward setup.
I haven't, yet. The blower is going to have to come off. I have to do some more cooling mods and I'd really like to move the sensor.
I also wanna add a temp sensor to the coolant reservoit too
The blower case does heat up a good bit though too
*cliffhanger *
Pretty sure I just found the MAIN high IAT culprit.
And a few other things to help fix it.
I'll post up in a bit
Pretty sure I just found the MAIN high IAT culprit.
And a few other things to help fix it.
I'll post up in a bit
Ok, so yall have known about my battle with my high IATs ever since the install. Even after dropping coin on the badass interchiller.... that chaps my ass. Anyway, I would notice after driving it would climb and never really drop even cruising. As soon as I popped it in park, temps would plummet.
I started thinking about the pump more and researching, and thought it wasn't flowing well enough, either all together or there was a draw and restricting the flow. Well together I picked my electrician coworkers brain. He figured reverse polarity when in drive, but its on a relay. Why the fuck would it even know what gear I was in unless its the signal power source that was wrong.
So I used him, and here it is...
In PARK the pump flows great! But put it in drive....
I started thinking about the pump more and researching, and thought it wasn't flowing well enough, either all together or there was a draw and restricting the flow. Well together I picked my electrician coworkers brain. He figured reverse polarity when in drive, but its on a relay. Why the fuck would it even know what gear I was in unless its the signal power source that was wrong.
So I used him, and here it is...
In PARK the pump flows great! But put it in drive....
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