Sloppy Mechanics How Tos

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Thread Table of Contents
broken exhaust bolt removal
Deleting Brake Torque Management P01 PCM
Injector Spacer How To
Installing IAT in truck intake
Micro anti lag and trans brake together
MPH on Racepak with MS3 + TCU
MS3 Flex Fuel Install
Solid State Relay Wiring
Wire and Fire MS1 and MSD6010 LSX


"Decapping" factory fuel injectors

This is the cheap way of getting more fuel into your engine that is required when making more power than the factory fuel injectors can support.
"Decapping" fuel injectors is pretty much what it sounds like. You are removing the pintle cap to increase flow through the injector. The factory uses pintle caps to restrict the flow of injectors and to help flow match injectors. By removing the pintle caps you are unrestricting the flow through the injector. Because of this modification their may be flow variance between injectors. This is due to the fact that before the stock pintle cap was the fuel flow equalizer through the fuel injector from the factory and now after decapping the fuel injector, the only thing that is now making the injectors flow the same is the factory machining tolerances within the injector. Because of this, it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you send your fuel injectors out for flow testing, and also that you keep a eye on your spark plugs to see how the AFR's are looking cylinder to cylinder. If you have a spark plug that looks like its noticeably richer or leaner than other cylinders, I recommend modifying another factory stock fuel injector of the same flow rate and part number, having it flow tested, swapping the problem injector out and testing again.
then sending them out to eric, info below

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Ok onto how to do this modification. Heres a video for the visual learning people out there:
sloppy mechanics how to video




Dale Follett's video




Now for what cant be seen in the video. In this photo you can see the dark ring inside the black fuel injector O-ring retainer. This is the friction weld that holds the pintle cap onto the injector. This is what needs to be ground off.

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So heres a visual reference of the pintle cap half off the injector

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And then heres the pintle cap completely off the fuel injector

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The part you see in the middle of the completely decapped fuel injector is the pintle. DO NOT TOUCH THIS WITH A GRINDER, YOU WILL RUIN THE INJECTOR! You just want to grind off the friction weld that holds the pintle cap on and nothing more.
So that is how you modify your fuel injectors to flow more fuel, now heres the proof this works.
I (Dale Follett) Did this to a set of Delphi 25lb/hr fuel injectors from a junkyard LM7 5.3L. The injector part number is 25320288. I modified 8 of them and then sent one out for flow testing to witchhunter.com so I would have data to use in my megasquirt's tune. Here are the returned test results:

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So from these test results, we can see at 43.5psi the fuel injector flowed 583cc/min. Using witchhunter.com 's online calculator I converted that to LB/HR. 583cc/min = 55.4 LB/HR of fuel flow at 43.5psi. Now for us LS engine guys, our factory fuel rail pressure is 58psi, so I used witchhunter.com 's calculator again to convert that flow number to 58psi and came back with the flow number of 64 LB/HR at 58psi of fuel pressure. This means this particular modified fuel injector flows 256% more fuel than it did in factory form. Now this flow number IS NOT FOR ALL FUEL INJECTORS. I HIGHLY recommend sending all of your fuel injectors out for flow testing to see where you stand with your modified fuel injectors. As I stated, I just flow tested one and have been keeping a eye on my spark plugs, with good results.
EDIT 2-26-17, Just send all your fuel injectors out for flow testing so you know where you stand with your injectors. I've been getting a few injectors that are frozen up or fail a leak check from the junkyard, so for peace of mind and so you dont wound a engine, just send all your injectors out for flow testing or build a rig to flow test them from home.
I am currently running these particular modified fuel injectors in my pontiac firebird. The setup currently as of 7-18-16 consists of a BONE STOCK junkyard 4.8L LS, 4L80E transmission with a factory unknown vehicle junkyard 1700rpm stall converter and 2.73 rear axle gears. The vehicle is twin turbocharged using 2 different sized turbochargers from the junkyard. The turbo kit is a little large for this engine and takes a while for it to spool up. So far this setup on 13psi has ran 14.11 at 111mph at Beaver Springs Raceway. I have sense upped the boost pressure to 16.5psi. At 16.5psi of boost pressure, at 6200rpm my fuel injector duty cycle is 66.2%. Heres a graph:

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I have a little work to do to the tune, but I am commanding a 10.8 AFR and the injectors so far are easily keeping up with that, which a factory 25lb/hr fuel injector would have NEVER done. This car also has been driven over 700 miles with next to no issues. I did have 1 fuel injector fail at around 650 miles due to dirt getting into the fuel injector. This is due to the fact the firebird has no fuel filter. It was caught by keeping a eye on the spark plugs, and thus is why it is important to keep a eye on your spark plugs while you are getting your setup dialed in with these fuel injectors and whenever you notice the engine not running correctly, mine was sputtering. I swapped it out with another bench ground fuel injector and its been running fine ever sense, and see's boost every time its out.
Now there are others on the Sloppy mechanics facebook page that are decapping the 5.3L denso flex fuel injectors. At this time I am currently waiting on a reply for the part number of said fuel injectors being used in this testing. But Joseph Houze has posted a video that can be found here:



The outer two injectors in this video are the modified 5.3L denso flex fuel injectors, the inner two injectors are deka 80's. They almost flow the same. Its believed the 5.3L denso flex fuel injectors flow 78lb/hr, but none have been sent out for flow testing to verify that number to the best of my knowledge.
And as always the disclaimer.

This modification is DO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I (Dale Follett) will NOT be held responsible or liable for any damage done to your vehicle due to the results of this modification.

Credit: Cory Dunlap for the last 2 injector photos, and Joseph Houze for letting me share his injector flow video.

For any more information on this style of modification, GM part number vs average decapped flow rating or any other questions please visit GM Uncapped Injectors facebook page found here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/285371198529480/
I took some photos of this myself, after decapping a set on my own from dales instructions. also i will be linking a video of me doing the same!


















Matt's Decapped Fuel injector flow testing results video.

 

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Deleting Brake Torque Management P01 PCM

Deleting Brake Torque Management P01 PCM
(Dale Follett 7-17-2018)
Ok next three photos will show you how to turn off Brake Torque Management in the P04 or "0411" PCM. This is practically required if you are running any kind of aftermarket larger camshaft on your LS engine due to the fact that with this factory feature turned on, the PCM once it sees the brakes being applied will pull ignition timing, which in turn can/will stall the engine or at the very least make it stumble/cough.
First thing is open up your tune file. Click the System tab and LOOK at what the system type is, DO NOT CHANGE IT, just make a mental note of it

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Next Click on System Options, the button with the red arrows pointed to it

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Go down the row with the red arrow till you find your system type. Then go over to the brake torque management box inline with the system type you have. My example 0411 file was the GMT800 system type so I went over to the red circled area and took the 1 (means its on) and changed it to 0 to turn it off

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Then YOU MUST DO A WRITE ENTIRE and then boom, it'll be turned off, you'll be able to hit your brakes on a big cam application and it wont kill itself from pulling a bunch of timing from a table you are not allowed to see. This will turn off Brake Torque Management on your P01 or "0411" PCM.
 

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Injector Spacer How To

When using the stock truck intake, and installing the 80lb siemens deka 80lb injectors i recommend, the stock injector is shorter than the siemens...
this means when you install them, you have to put spacers in the fuel rails so they bolt down tight, and you need longer bolts to make it to the fuel rail hold down inset threads...
any hardware store has this stuff, I got these parts and took the pics at a sears hardware, we have also gotten them at home depot and lowes.
Siemens Deka injector on the top, and stock injector with half inch nylon spacer on the bottom

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install them under the rail tab and intake thread, like shown.

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That should be all there is too it.

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Installing IAT in truck intake

popular LS v8s have the intake air temp sensor in the MAFS itself, so swap cars, we like to remove the Evap solenoid behind the throttle, open it up a little with a grinder or drill, and then RTV and hammer in the sensor with a dead blow, works awesome, right in the intake stream without being an obstruction.

we get this sensor out of nearly any v6 obd2 gm, IE blazer, buick with the 3800, grand am etc


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MPH on Racepak with MS3 + TCU

how to make the MPH work when you have a racepak and the MS3 and TCU all together

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this is slightly tricky because the MS3 broadcasts the info to the dash, and the TCU has the Vehicle speed reported, so you have to enable polling for VSS/Gear selection and enter the following info
then it can broadcast it out correctly.

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MS3 Flex Fuel Install

the first thing you will want to do is enable flex fuel, under Fuel > flex sensor settings tab, it will look like this note this is the settings for the chevy style sensor with temp and content hz being 50-150, look below to see the difference.

only difference in settings is, ford sensor you turn off temp input drop down box and change freq to 50-125hz

be sure to set your baseline ethanol % number to whatever you see on the display after it comes up. like seen below, this will basically set your fuel table as it is now, as the zero point for whatever ethanol content you have in, and work its addition or subtraction from that point.

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Chevy Style / continental Ethanol sensor / halltech / hondata etc

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Ford ethanol sensor pinout and wiring

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Solid State Relay Wiring

On this page we will be discussing how to wire in the Amazon SSR DC-DC relay link i provide on the amazon shopping list.
this can be used for trans brake control and bump box with ms3, pwm fan and fuel pump etc.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012SW6TB6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

another caution item is, recently ryan blaser (a21bravo) had one that works fine but the input polarity is swapped

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I quickly bench tested it, and the 1-2 poles are the high current side, so you can throw power or ground through them
3-4 are the trigger side of the switch, this is your low volt inputs for the ecu to control this leg.
so wiring for a simple fan you would ground the fan to battery, feed fused power into 1 and out of 2 into the fan
then trigger 3-4 with power and ground to trigger it, or pass the power leg from 1-3 and trigger 4 with the ecu etc
going to install and test this in some cars and get some photos of it wired and working but plenty of people said it works great already
 

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Wire and Fire MS1 and MSD6010 LSX

Things you will need to install and boost a 4.8/6.0LSX in your swap car on MS1 and MSD6010 minimum.

The way i do it, parts list and guide.

Denmah 11-7-12

first i would say before you consider wiring and tuning and running a car on MS1 and MSD setup watch these quick videos to see what you are getting into, it will help while you read the text later, to see the things i am talking about...

what is megasquirt?



how is megasquirt wired to a car?



how does megasquirt connect to my laptop?




4.8-5.3-6.0 longblock
(thats intake, throttle body to oil pan, coil packs, and pigtails on the wiring if you can get em)
to run the stock ignition you will need this MSD box
320 dollars on summit

this reads the stock crank and cam position and fires the factory coils through all the stock connectors and comes with a wiring harness, also! can be programmed with a laptop, and you can add a map sensor for boost timing curve and vacuum cruise curve all at once, there are also timing retard and 2 step options built in, fully user configurable.

this box will run the car without any of that though, you can plug it in and plug in a pill and fire the car with fuel of any kind, propane, gas squirt bottle, etc

also note, this box comes with a 9 pin strait through serial cable, what the MS1 also uses, so you wont need to buy one with the MS1 because you can just swap the cable. saving you some money when you order ms1 stuff.

Megasquirt 1, MS1 $157 dollars - controlling fuel only from the factory sensors
(coolant, inlet air temp, tps, and map sensor reading)
Un assembled 157 dollar kit - you buy this and build it youself, and flash the firmware and then program the box.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-programmable-efi-system-pcb22-kit-black-case-p-128.html
Assembled, flashed, tested, MS1 - $256 dollars
if you buy this you can just wire, load a tune and fire the car. when you order it tell them you want the MSNSE code loaded, the EXTRA code, has more options and thats the firmware i use, so if you want to use one of my base tunes you will need this firmware loaded. they ask you what firmware you want when you order it. so make note!
MS1 pre-made 8ft wiring harness - 67 dollars
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-programmable-efi-system-pcb22-assembled-unit-p-34.html
this is the wiring harness i use, its long enough to easily get the box in the car, and reach the farthest sensor the coolant on the drivers side, i always pass it through the passenger side firewall and it easily reaches the coolant temp sensor on the other side of the motor, so the rest are easy to connect they are all shorter.
now armed with the motor installed, (too many ways to do this, just get it in there, buy mounts, make them etc, you can get fuel going to the stock rails anyway you want to, it has a regulator built in, will hold 58psi fuel pressure, and return it nicely, we have cars making over 600rwhp through a th400 on the stock regulator and rails so they are pretty damn good!
you can use the stock injectors to get the car running, but they wont be able to support alot of power, you can jam in some other injectors, i use taller siemens deka 80s and we space the rails up with plastic spacers, and longer bolts from the hardware store and they work great. you have to make sure you get injector pigtails that fit your aftermarket injectors if you are going to swap them out, i like ev6 connectors and you can get good ones out of dodge Neons and Volvo T5 sedans, the ford and other ones seem to break easy specially after sitting in the junk yard. if you are using return less you can just buy return rails, i would recommend that, easier, there are other ways to do it but I'm not gunna clog up a base running thread with all that, maybe later.
now to wire this up i would recommend putting a hole into the passenger side firewall away from shit like the headers, heater hoses etc, just make it easy on yourself. make the hole large enough to throw your connector through, for the ms1 and the MSD box, you can completely plug in the MSD box stuff now to all the stock parts of the motor pretty easy everything is labeled.
next up i would say get a fuse panel, here is the one i use that works great, everything you are adding is going to need, fused, switched 12v power, so you might as well make it easy and get a central switched hub, safest and easiest way.
http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-156001020-ATC-Fuse-Panel/dp/B00139KJ7Q
this bad boy right here is like 10 dollars at auto zone, takes regular style fuses and has 6 ports, and a easy post that connects main power.
what you do is hook up a 40amp relay to this pig, and you find a 12v key on or ground key on power source, and you turn the relay on and use a 10-12g wire to this fuse panel, so when you key on everything on this panel gets 12v
now once that is working you get to the rest of this.
take the pink wire going to the MSD box, and crimp on a blue spade, and plug it into the fuse block anywhere and give it a 20 amp fuse, do the same for the megasquirt, but limit it to 3-5 amps (i say that because 2.5 and 3 amps are hard to find sometimes, ive never had a problem running a 5amp) 2 more slots on this fuse panel will need 5 amp runs to the injector power circuts, the injectors are little solenoids that flicker open and closed to adjust the amount of fuel going in. so you will be powering one side of the injector bank, left and right banks, and the megasquirt will be grounding them out inernally to fire them
so you can take all 4 injectors on the drivers side, and take one wire from each injector and connect them all together and then power all 4 wires right to the fuse box, and then take the 4 other wires and connect them all together and join them to the injector driver wires on the MS1 box.
so right now you have 4 things connected
20amp - MSD 6010 box pink wire
5amp - megasquirt 12v switched power RED wire
5amp - whatever color injector bank 1 driver side injector power
5amp - whatever color injector bank 2 pass side injector power
now you will take the coolant, tps, and other wires for the megasquirt and wire them into their respective spots. orange goes to IAT temp and then yellow goes to coolant temp, the other side of the sensor has to goto the black wire with the white stripe, that is the sensor return ground, so connect the ground wire for the TPS, cooland and iat to the black and white wire going back to the MS1.
all the other black wires on the MS1 harness, solid black only, you can bundle them all up and shove them all into a yellow hoop connector and use a self tapper and ground them out in the engine bay, super easy.
at this point you can power on the relay and make sure the sensors are working with the ms1, youll see coolant IAT and throttle position will work too.
if you are going to be doing any tuning at all you should get yourself a wideband and i would highly reccomend the AEM UEGO gauge wideband all in one unit for about 170 dollars from nearly anywhere.
AEM UEGO wideband gauge - $170
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4100-UEGO-Controller-Gauge/dp/B000CFQM4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1382085859&sr=1-1&keywords=aem+uego
this you can also put a blue spade connector on and power it on the fuse panel. the red wire is 12v on. black goes to ground.
using the white wire on this, you can connect it to the pink wire on the MS1 harness, that is the O2 sensor output (white aem harness) to the Pink 02 input on the ms1, this way the MS1 ecu will see oxygen sensor information so you can tune and datalog.
the other spare wires in the ms1 harness like fuel pump relay (purple) fast idle (green) and all the IAC and spark output wires i pull the excess into the car, and clip them with a wire cutter at like 6 inches out of the connector and use the spare wire on other parts of the car or project. (injector wiring, ground wires for the sensors to reach the black and white stripe) etc.
at this point if you found a key 12v on or key ground and have your relay wired up, you can key on, and your msd box, ms1 box, injectors and wideband should get power all at the same time. this is also can be connected to the fuel pump relay to switch that on with the key, and then they should all power off with the flick of the key.
also see the youtube video i did explaining some wiring and how it looks in the car.

now the final thing you need really is to take the yellow wire, on the msd box, that is the tach/rpm signal output wire, and connect that to the megasquirt box so it can see RPM, it will not fire the fuel injectors until it sees the motor spinning.
it gets connected to the white wire, inside the shielded thick wire on the megasquit harness, i always pull these wires into the car and connect them inside the car. IE the O2 sensor, and tach signal and input wires. i pull them out of the harness in the passenger foot well and connect them there, in the car, you can also connect them in the engine bay whatever is easier for you.
now if i were you, i would pull the fuel pump fuse, and key the car on, panel will come on everything will get power.
at this time i would connect to the MSD6010 and load a tune from me, or just plug in one of their supplied pills to start and run the car, Absolutely do not attempt to tune the car in boost with their supplied pills, they have way too much timing in them and you will surely spit a rod or ringland immediately hahaha
now, with the MSD box ready, power going to all things, i would connect back to the Megasquirt 1 box, and hit the starter, however you have it wired, and make sure that if you got 12v key on its also 12v while cranking, or the msd and the ms1 will power off while you crank lol.
in any case, car should crank around 140rpm with the stock starter, and you should see 140rpm on the megasquirt box.
this means the MSD box is connected correctly, and that the MS1 can see the tach signal correctly, this means you are ready to fire the car after one more step.
you need to run a vacuum hose from the intake (behind the throttle body) to the MS1 in the car. washer fluid rubber hose works great.
now you can turn on your fuel pump by replacing the fuse, and try to start the car, start with lower pulse widths first so you don't flood it out, after its running you can go strait to tuning wich is another article, but this covers the basics! i will say you want an 11.0 afr warming up at 40-80deg coolant temp and 12.0 from 80-140 or so, that works best for me, then mild cammed cars while idling hot 160-210 deg like a 13.0 AFR on average, in my experience, happy hunting!
let me know if you find errors and i will edit!
 
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