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BUILD Shawns 1971 Impala Donk
- Thread starter Shawn1112
- Start date
Thread
Interior/Top
LS Swap
Wheels
Sounds/Music
Suspension/Brakes
Paint
BOOST TIME!!!!
He was welding on 2 different cars today and I was checking them out, looked good.
Thanks dude, she should be a lot of fun on the street
Possibly, but I'm not sure. Would doing that tell him my converter is holding me back, if so then yes I guess lol
Solid numbers Shawn. I bet that thing is a riot on the street!
I bet the converter that's in it isn't meant for wot lockup, that's why they're saying you need a better one.
A circle d triple disc would be excellent in that car.
Locking it up at wot would pick you up some real power on the dyno too.
I bet the converter that's in it isn't meant for wot lockup, that's why they're saying you need a better one.
A circle d triple disc would be excellent in that car.
Locking it up at wot would pick you up some real power on the dyno too.
Yup, thats exactly what Joe said. Kinda sucks as I just had the trans out when the motor was out in December. I could have did it then, oh well. At least I'm not paying a shop to do it and double paying.
Yes the reservoir for the intercooler was low, it runs on its own reservoir and pump. One of the hoses runs thru the inner wheel well. So we are assuming the body shop had to disconnect that hose to get the wheel well out. When they reconnected it, they probably just topped off the reservoir not realizing the car needed to run to cycle it thru and you need to watch it and top it off as it cycles thru. hence the reason the last couple of pulls he went to 6400rpm
So I confirmed I do have the incorrect T Stat in the car. As mentioned I bought and installed a T-Stat for a LQ4.
I talked to CVF racing this morning and they said I need to have a T Stat from a 01 Camaro 5.7. So that and the one fan not turning on should solve my running hotter than normal temps. I'm going to buy a couple of 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot to catch the coolant. This is going to be the 3rd fucking time I have had to drain it smfh. The last 2 times I just drained into a sewer and bought new.
I talked to CVF racing this morning and they said I need to have a T Stat from a 01 Camaro 5.7. So that and the one fan not turning on should solve my running hotter than normal temps. I'm going to buy a couple of 5 gallon buckets from Home Depot to catch the coolant. This is going to be the 3rd fucking time I have had to drain it smfh. The last 2 times I just drained into a sewer and bought new.
Meaning 2 different styles for the 01 Camaro or meaning 2 different operating temps?
I know there are 160's and 187's
Really and both part sizes are for the 5.7
I could see the v6 being a different part size, I'll have to dig deeper into this as I already bought the T Stat
Yeah ask him, I dug into it some more and seen nothing that indicates that. I see 2 different part numbers if you buy the housing with it, then it’s like a package deal.
I bought the 160. I always run with a cooler t stat on my boosted cars
So you might be on to something. I started digging more into it last night. Apparently they started using a new style water pump around 01-02 that does in fact have a different water pump. I couldnt find a different brand 160 in stock anywhere, but did find a 187. They are exactly the same except the height or depth whatever you want to call it. Also the 160 which is longer, already has holes drilled out on the bottom. pics to follow
No but would have been sooner than later. I started experiencing similar symptoms as when the o2 went bad on my Regal twice.
A/F sticks at like 34-36 when first started and you cant put the car in gear until it comes down to normal. Usually takes about 30 seconds. Also sometimes I need to start it 2-3 times before it stays running. Eventually what will happen is it will start but only stay running if your giving it gas. The minute you put in gear it will die out.
Got a majority of the big brake kit up front done today. Its actually pretty easy, but very time consuming due to all the tedious shit.
Have to mount the hat to the rotors (2 piece), each rotor to hat was like 12 bolts. Those all had to be loc-tite and torqued to spec.
Had to cut 2 ears (upper and lower) off both spindles and then make sure they are smoothed out.
Have to drill out 2 of the mounting points on the spindle and re-tap them to take the larger bolt for the caliper bracket.
Had to dry fit the caliper bracket, complete rotor and caliper 3 times to get the caliper bracket shimmed correctly. Then you have to do the same with the actual caliper. Once thats done and the spacing is right, pull it all apart again, add loc-tite and torque everything to spec. I'll post the pics tomorrow when its done, no need to post pics of it incomplete.
Did you see the tabs as well. The thread kinda drags on, the tabs give the details in short form lolFinally read thru this thing. You built one helluva show and go car. Mad props to you. I just can't fathom spending so much money into 1 car ..I'm just too cheap lol fortunately you'll make your money back if you decide to ever sell.