• Just passing by? Feel free to reply to discussions, no account needed.
    Or, quickly register using Facebook or create an account the old fashioned way.

BUILD Shawns 1971 Impala Donk

Thread
Interior/Top
LS Swap
Wheels
Sounds/Music
Suspension/Brakes
Paint
BOOST TIME!!!!

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,666
2,082
Bolingbrook IL
Originally when it was painted last year, they stripped the trunk lid and header panel to bare metal as thats all they recommended it needed.
I had issues arise on the hood since then and when I brought the car back they recommending stripping down to the bare metal, and applying some sealant before repainting. The sanding to bare metal and repaint was on his dime, the only thing I was going to pay for was the sealant. Well after stripping it down to bare metal they found the flash rust all over the place. Hard to get pics of it, but I saw it first hand and it was like cancer, it was fucking everywhere. The new hood that I bought looked really good, we had that one blasted and when it came back from the blaster it was worse than my original hood, like way worse. That shit was all in the nooks and crannies.

As mentioned, this flash rust shit is foreign to me. I asked a buddy of mine who owns a body shop in the city. He also said if its as bad as I described the hood is fucked. I'm not even remotely thinking he is trying to fuck me in any way, shape, or form. He has stood behind his work and the other issues are 100% on his dime no questions asked.
That's the shitty thing about painting a car with paint already on it, you never know what's underneath or how good the person was that did it..

Any unprepared steel panel will instantly start to rust if it's not treated or coated with something to prevent the air from chemically turning the steel to rust. Metal that has pits in it can still be saved and have a good long lasting paint applied over it. It just takes all the necessary prep work such as treating or removing active rust. Then sealing it in a epoxy. If you look at all the pics and videos of my nova 90% of it sat in bare steel for a few years. Lots of areas where flash rust started to happen. I mechanically removed as much rust as possible and then did a rust neutralizer or converter, clean, prep and now it's sitting in epoxy. I don't expect to see any rust pop back unless I didn't do something right.

I'm not nitpicking, but unless the metal is deteriorated to where it's thinner than it needs to be. I would think your painters should be able to stop the rust in its tracks, seal it up with epoxy and body work over it and you or anyone else should never know what the metal underneath looks like. Just trying to help you out without having to spend a crap ton of money on patching two hoods together and all the bodywork that will be needed.
 

Shawn1112

TCG Elite Member
TCG Blue
Aug 4, 2010
28,706
78,115
Streamwood
That's the shitty thing about painting a car with paint already on it, you never know what's underneath or how good the person was that did it..

Any unprepared steel panel will instantly start to rust if it's not treated or coated with something to prevent the air from chemically turning the steel to rust. Metal that has pits in it can still be saved and have a good long lasting paint applied over it. It just takes all the necessary prep work such as treating or removing active rust. Then sealing it in a epoxy. If you look at all the pics and videos of my nova 90% of it sat in bare steel for a few years. Lots of areas where flash rust started to happen. I mechanically removed as much rust as possible and then did a rust neutralizer or converter, clean, prep and now it's sitting in epoxy. I don't expect to see any rust pop back unless I didn't do something right.

I'm not nitpicking, but unless the metal is deteriorated to where it's thinner than it needs to be. I would think your painters should be able to stop the rust in its tracks, seal it up with epoxy and body work over it and you or anyone else should never know what the metal underneath looks like. Just trying to help you out without having to spend a crap ton of money on patching two hoods together and all the bodywork that will be needed.
That’s the issue, it’s thinning out in a few areas. Some spots more than others. Hence the reason he is cutting metal from the hood I bought and cutting metal out of my original hood.
 

Shawn1112

TCG Elite Member
TCG Blue
Aug 4, 2010
28,706
78,115
Streamwood
cap42 cap42
Here is one of the areas thinning out. I forgot I was able to get this pic. Few other areas were like this as well.

70345640122__D876896A-0777-46BC-BBA7-482CB7AF1DC1.jpeg
 

cap42

Restoration Hell
Mar 22, 2005
2,666
2,082
Bolingbrook IL
Disclaimer: I'm not being sarcastic.

How will that respond to bondo/filler?? Bondo might be your friend here.
Totally wrong thing to do if you want a quality job to last. Bondo or body filler will soak up moisture making the metal rust worse and then it will crack. Plus that will be a weak area especially on a panel that moves/flexes.
 

Shawn1112

TCG Elite Member
TCG Blue
Aug 4, 2010
28,706
78,115
Streamwood
you tell mario hi? :)
He wasnt there, just Joe and Bob if I remember the others guys name, I'm horrible with names
Congrats ~600rwhp is great.

Did he lock the converter?

How are those a/w setups configured, two lines going to a tank that has an electric pump?
Thanks

Meaning what, we drove it on the street to get the shifts dialed in and he adjusted the lockup to 55mph at 30% if that sounds right
He did highly recommend getting a Circle D converter which I plan on doing. I guess the converter in there now is holding me back

Yes
 

BOTTLEFED

TCG Elite Member
TCG Blue
Mar 7, 2015
1,782
3,345
He wasnt there, just Joe and Bob if I remember the others guys name, I'm horrible with names

Thanks

Meaning what, we drove it on the street to get the shifts dialed in and he adjusted the lockup to 55mph at 30% if that sounds right
He did highly recommend getting a Circle D converter which I plan on doing. I guess the converter in there now is holding me back

Yes
Yeah i forgot, it was his kids communion today, and yes bob is the fab guy over there, hes a bad mofo with a welder/fabrication. Hes done a few things for me that other people that were supposedly "the best welders" couldnt do lol.

Congrats on the numbers!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shawn1112

Shawn1112

TCG Elite Member
TCG Blue
Aug 4, 2010
28,706
78,115
Streamwood
What a fucking day. Picked her up from the body shop, put like 8 gallons of 93 in it. Get on the EOE and she was running like shit, felt like she was missing.
Pulled over and popped the hood, quick visual inspection didnt show me nothing. Fuel pressure, oil pressure, and AFR looked good, so I drove it like that to Sycamore.
My thought was bad plug or a plug wire came loose when the body shop pulled the inner wheel wells off. Get it to the tuner, tell him whats going on, tells us to pull a plug. We do and these plugs only had 200 miles on them and were caked from running super rich. He had one of them old school plug cleaners, so we had to pull all the plugs, he cleaned them and we tossed them back in. Fired her up and she was fine. Although we also suspect my O2 is going bad as they are fucking notorious for that with these Holley systems. I guess its the shitty design by Bosch. So I'm going to order 2 so I have a spare. I had that fucker go bad on my Regal twice.

Got some miles on her, took 64 from Sycamore to Strats as Chi Inc had their season opener. She feels strong and I'm very happy.
From a dig it just blows the fucking tires off, so I need some seat time to figure her out.
Leaving Strats had a BMW that wanted to play, dropped it in 3rd and hit it and within 4-5 seconds I had him by a few cars.
Final pull and #'s were at 20 degrees of timing and that was keeping it more on the safe side on pump gas. Pulled a plug and he was happy with the timing mark.

Well, we also semi fixed my coolant temps running hot. One fan was missing the relay so fan #2 wasnt turning on. Popped a relay in and it worked.
Temps still climbed while in traffic but nowhere near where they were. I bought a T-Stat for an LQ4 and apparently I was supposed to buy what my water pump requires being its not the OG water pump.