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BUILD Shawns 1971 Impala Donk
- Thread starter Shawn1112
- Start date
- Replies 1K
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Picked up my motor this morning, and I totally forgot to take a picture of it lol. I just ordered new GM knock sensors, knock sensor grommets and a new valley pan gasket. Ive always been the type if its out of the car, might as well replace it. My motor is sitting at 10:3-1 and according to Brian that should be perfect.
New piston/rod combo is fully capable of going north of 1300hp. I believe my fueling (ID1300's and a dual 450lph) will support that as well if I ever turn it up.
My valley pan I had powder coated orange on the original build. So I'm going to spray paint it black on Monday, not worth paying to have it painted the same color of the car as you dont see much of it.
Now the tough part, getting that lazy fuck motivated to get started. He has 2 cars he is currently utilizing both of his lifts. I'm not mad at that as I get it, my car sitting on a lift is costing him money. He said both of those cars will be done by Tuesday and we will start on mine Wednesday and I have my doubts on that. If my car isnt at the suspension shop 2 weeks from Monday, then I wont be making it to World of Wheels. Because after suspension it needs to go back to the painter for a couple of weeks.
New piston/rod combo is fully capable of going north of 1300hp. I believe my fueling (ID1300's and a dual 450lph) will support that as well if I ever turn it up.
My valley pan I had powder coated orange on the original build. So I'm going to spray paint it black on Monday, not worth paying to have it painted the same color of the car as you dont see much of it.
Now the tough part, getting that lazy fuck motivated to get started. He has 2 cars he is currently utilizing both of his lifts. I'm not mad at that as I get it, my car sitting on a lift is costing him money. He said both of those cars will be done by Tuesday and we will start on mine Wednesday and I have my doubts on that. If my car isnt at the suspension shop 2 weeks from Monday, then I wont be making it to World of Wheels. Because after suspension it needs to go back to the painter for a couple of weeks.
Okay, so like everything on this car, nothing can fucking go right. We got the motor and trans in, pulley kit installed.
Slapped the blower on and the fucking blower pulley isnt matching up with the pulley kit, its about 1" off. Called Jokerz and sent him pics, he said its a pulley issue with the kit I have. Called them about 5pm as they were closing, they said they want me to use their hub/pulley that comes with the kit. First of all my current hub is pressed in and their hub would need to be pressed in. 2nd, their pulley is too damn big, I'd probably lose 3-5lbs of boost and suffer belt slip. Its a shitty looking pulley imo. My ARP header bolts were too long, no biggie as I'll run out to Winners Circle tomorrow to grab some. New master/booster is in, old gas tank is out, all the old fuel plumbing is out. Oh yeah, my 370a alternator doesnt line up with this pulley kit either, so I have to order a new one. The kit comes with a 160a that I can use for now.
I just shot both Jokerz and CVF Racing emails looking for a solution. I'm thinking I might have to get a custom hub machined, but we will see.
The hub/pulley that comes with the kit is in the picture
Slapped the blower on and the fucking blower pulley isnt matching up with the pulley kit, its about 1" off. Called Jokerz and sent him pics, he said its a pulley issue with the kit I have. Called them about 5pm as they were closing, they said they want me to use their hub/pulley that comes with the kit. First of all my current hub is pressed in and their hub would need to be pressed in. 2nd, their pulley is too damn big, I'd probably lose 3-5lbs of boost and suffer belt slip. Its a shitty looking pulley imo. My ARP header bolts were too long, no biggie as I'll run out to Winners Circle tomorrow to grab some. New master/booster is in, old gas tank is out, all the old fuel plumbing is out. Oh yeah, my 370a alternator doesnt line up with this pulley kit either, so I have to order a new one. The kit comes with a 160a that I can use for now.
I just shot both Jokerz and CVF Racing emails looking for a solution. I'm thinking I might have to get a custom hub machined, but we will see.
The hub/pulley that comes with the kit is in the picture
Turbos wouldn't have this issue.
Okay, so I talked to a dude last night that is running this exact same pulley kit. He does LS swaps and LSA installs all the time and swears by this pulley kit.
Apparently CVF Racing makes a 2.4 pulley for the LSA. He said he gets no belt slip using their blower pullies. So that will solve a HUGE problem, now I just gotta find someone to remove the Grip Tech hub and press the new hub onto the blower. Pic is of a LSA he did with the CVF 2.4 pulley
Apparently CVF Racing makes a 2.4 pulley for the LSA. He said he gets no belt slip using their blower pullies. So that will solve a HUGE problem, now I just gotta find someone to remove the Grip Tech hub and press the new hub onto the blower. Pic is of a LSA he did with the CVF 2.4 pulley
Measure twice, cut once. Shiiit, we measured 4-5 times lol. Dual 450’s fuel pump assembly mounted.
Just checking but that griptech hub is it possible it's able to be installed either way? I once came across the pulley Hub that only if you really thought about it could you figure that the side with the longer skirt went towards the pulley instead of away. The guy that made the Hub had machine the register the same diameter on both sides so it looked like he had designed it that way to be reversible and change the offset
It’s been confirmed by multiple sources that I must use the CVF hub and pulley. Or have a custom hub machined
Good progress today. After the whole fiasco with the hub, I decided to do it myself. After renting the pulley puller and actually getting to it. It literally took like 30 minutes. So we got the correct hub on, mounted the bigger pulley for now, my 2.4" will be here tomorrow. Blower is mounted and torqued down to specs
Fuel rails/injectors are in, plugs gapped at .25 per the tuner are in, valve covers are on, coils are mounted and plugged in, and the throttle body is mocked up. These cocksuckers at Holley dont give you a TB gasket with a brand new TB SMFH. So I have to order a TB gasket, and a new IAC gasket. Ran into an issue with my coils not lining up with the LSA valve covers. Luckily my guy had a set with like 5000 miles on them, so I have to replace them with used ones.
Fuel rails/injectors are in, plugs gapped at .25 per the tuner are in, valve covers are on, coils are mounted and plugged in, and the throttle body is mocked up. These cocksuckers at Holley dont give you a TB gasket with a brand new TB SMFH. So I have to order a TB gasket, and a new IAC gasket. Ran into an issue with my coils not lining up with the LSA valve covers. Luckily my guy had a set with like 5000 miles on them, so I have to replace them with used ones.
Hopefully firing her up next week Wednesday pending running into anymore issues with not having parts. Found out today my water neck doesn’t fit the water pump supplied by CVF racing. Why they wouldn’t include that is fucking stupid. Could pickup up a shitty one from Autozone but I want all my shit to match. So I ordered one and should have it by Tuesday. Forgot the lid in my garage, otherwise we coulda slapped that on.
All that’s really left is buttoning up a few things top side. Plumbing the blower and all the fueling from the tank to the engine bay, installing trans cooler and intercooler. Add fluids, turn the key and pray lol.
Not sure if I’ve asked this. But any recommendations on not cracking the paint on my lid while torquing the bolts down?
All that’s really left is buttoning up a few things top side. Plumbing the blower and all the fueling from the tank to the engine bay, installing trans cooler and intercooler. Add fluids, turn the key and pray lol.
Not sure if I’ve asked this. But any recommendations on not cracking the paint on my lid while torquing the bolts down?
Goddamn that looks good Shawn!
To avoid cracking the paint I'd suggest washers on the bolts, make sure they're clean on the side that touches the paint. You could add some lubricant to the bottom of the washer and potentially employ a heat gun to the paint around when you're torquing them down to soften the paint.
To avoid cracking the paint I'd suggest washers on the bolts, make sure they're clean on the side that touches the paint. You could add some lubricant to the bottom of the washer and potentially employ a heat gun to the paint around when you're torquing them down to soften the paint.
Yes inch lbs on both the blower to the heads and the lid to the blower
44lbs first time around and then 89lbs the 2nd time around. Work from center out
44lbs first time around and then 89lbs the 2nd time around. Work from center out