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BUILD Shawns 1971 Impala Donk


Pro Stock John

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He's saying the wheels/tires are too close to the fender?

With regards to your turbo selection, Jeremy is a smart (and great) guy. I'd just be clear if you want this car to be a bit laggy so you can hook on those tires, or you want power from a dig too. 600rwhp adding a turbo is not hard at all.
 
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Shawn1112

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He's saying the wheels/tires are too close to the fender?

With regards to your turbo selection, Jeremy is a smart (and great) guy. I'd just be clear if you want this car to be a bit laggy so you can hook on those tires, or you want power from a dig too. 600rwhp adding a turbo is not hard at all.
Passenger side is insanely close, drivers side is close as well but not as close.

Good point on the turbo and Jeremy also brought that up.
 

Pro Stock John

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What's a little weird to me is the spacing is unequal, when I look at pics of stock suspension for your car seems like the rear end can't really be off center?
 

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Body to frame alignment is probably off or slightly tweaked. I’m assuming it’s got factory worn out body mounts too. It would be quite silly to compensate for any of that with suspension or narrowing the rear end.
 
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What's a little weird to me is the spacing is unequal, when I look at pics of stock suspension for your car seems like the rear end can't really be off center?
Believe me its very common on the G Bodies and B Bodies (70's/80's Caprices/Impalas) with big rims. Its always the passenger side.
As mentioned my Regal was like that, my buddies Box Chevy (I'll find a pic) was like that and countless others I have seen. A lot of times you can get away with it by going with a standard 5.5" lip on the rear wheels and sometimes you cant. Pics to follow
 
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Shawn1112

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Here is my buddies 89 Caprice. Same suspension shop and a 28” rim.
His might have been the drivers side, but all others Ive seen its the passenger side
My 71 isnt anywhere close to being that bad

033C5722-B696-4843-A253-B5C9F91D65A2.jpeg


FFF9148D-E220-412D-BB7C-CF47950F11A8.jpeg
 
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Shawn1112

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Body to frame alignment is probably off or slightly tweaked. I’m assuming it’s got factory worn out body mounts too. It would be quite silly to compensate for any of that with suspension or narrowing the rear end.
My buddy has all new body bushings and when he bought my Regal, he did all new body bushings on that as well.
 

Bob Hope

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Not sure why big rims would make a difference other than exacerbating an issue with pushing the wheels way out. Check frame to wheel well with a tape measure
 

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Totally get that it's an issue with big rim cars, you'd know that more than us.

I guess what I'm curious about, did you have to raise the car height up to make the new wheel/tire combo work? Are you using any adjustable arms? I see pics of the shorter adjustables offered for sale.

Not the end of the world to pull the housing out and apart to narrow it, but I'd personally want to make sure it's actually centered in the car first before I fugged with it.
 

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It’s got a converging 4 link where the control arms go out and an angle up top and go in slightly on the bottom to center the axle, a panhard bar would have to be full custom and parallel control arms.
 
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Shawn1112

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I guess what I'm curious about, did you have to raise the car height up to make the new wheel/tire combo work? Are you using any adjustable arms? I see pics of the shorter adjustables offered for sale.

Not the end of the world to pull the housing out and apart to narrow it, but I'd personally want to make sure it's actually centered in the car first before I fugged with it.
I did not have to raise my car up to fit the 26's, anything bigger would have required some frame notching and other cutting.
I did have to raise the rear with air shocks after the sounds as the weight was too much. But that was only 1" and when the suspension is done it will be at least 1" lower in the rear. I guess the easiest way to explain the big wheel fitment issues is they wont tuck properly inside the wheel well. Where a 20" or smaller doesnt have that issue. Again this is a very common issue that has been going on for years. If anyone here can figure out who to do it without shortening the rear end. Then lets partner up and we can make a fucking killing. Also again, running a standard 5.5" lip on the rear more times than not its avoidable. But certain cars it just needs to be done. Guys that run like a 9" rear lip or bigger not only shorten the rear end, but they have to tub the cars as well.

I'm going to be running Q1A uppers and lowers up front, Q1A coilovers all the way around, Trick Chassis adjustable upper and lowers in the rear with a Trick Chassis under axle anti roll bar. Also up front doing upper/lower ball joints, inner/outter tie rods, sway bar if he can get one etc. So basically everything suspension wise will be brand new.

Adjustable panhard bar would be crucial for that. I don’t know if it could be added though
No clue, I'm sure anything is possible though lol
 

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Did you swap out spindles? Can’t remember if you got bigger front brakes or not. If they’re short you should go with some tall ball joints up top to help with camber arc, would help with wheel clearance too.
 

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