🔧 Technical Real Towing Thread- no busters

Yaj Yak

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I'm super curious how much it'll sag with that trailer, the uhaul definitely puts most of the weight forward. Add stuff to the bed and I have a feeling it's going to sag a lot
after seeing the other canyon/coloardo with the enclosed behind it and it not sagging i bet it won't
 

Yaj Yak

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I just wonder if the little trailers, those are what 16 footers, get a little wiggly? What say you brother Yaj Yak Yaj Yak
i mean they're also heavy as fuck empty so i doubt it

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them having a minimum weight kinda surprises me
 

Yaj Yak

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*gulp*

Here goes nothing.

I'm new to this thread because I haven't towed a damn thing in my life. That's going to change very soon though. I'm considering just borrowing my buddy's trailer for a day and driving all over the place so that I can get the hang of it. I can probably haul that Diesel Olds off to scrap while I'm at it. :ROFLMAO: I really don't want my first time towing to be across state lines with my whole family inside my brand new truck and my pride on the trailer.

Any quick tips for a first time hauler? I'll be hauling the GN to the GS Nationals on a U-haul trailer (surge brakes) behind my '23 Colorado. My plans are to just stay in the slow lane, take the corners wide, keep a safe distance, and avoid tight gas stations. lol Everything else I'll just have to fumble through. As for loading, the U-haul trailers seem to take a lot of variables out of it.


where are you located?

i mean if you can rent a legit car trailer from a different spot and use an electric brake trailer etc, id feel way more comfortable.
 

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I've hauled grand prix's and my 442 with uhaul trailers a few times. Probably put on 1000 miles with them on my 04 f150. I really don't mind them. Tie-down is very easy and secure. I typically put more weight forward anyways because it will ride more smooth. The brakes are a bit jerky, but nothing you can't get used to. If you have any problems, I'm pretty sure they come and fix it for you.

They will ask you what you're pulling and what you're pulling with, so make sure they will approve them.

You don't have to turn that wide. A small car trailer like that follows pretty close in the tracks of the tow vehicle. You can watch in your Sideview mirrors around corners if you need to make wider turns.

Pay attention to what's ahead. It's a lot more difficult to change lanes when your have twice the length to fit.
 

v6buicks

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Interesting. I was always under the impression that U-haul trailers were really light.

I talked my buddy into letting me borrow his tilting equipment trailer for a day. That thing unloaded weighs a ton.

I'm in south/central Indiana. Marketplace is not showing me much for rental possibilities. They're all over $100 a day or more which is far beyond what I'm willing to spend. I'll keep looking, but I have a feeling it'll be hard to beat U-haul in this regard.
 

Broke EF

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Someone say something about towing with a Colorado?! This is a 24' enclosed (see earlier post for me doing that anotehr time as well), with a car, tool box, winch, spare inside up front. According to the Ford people from when it was hooked up to my F150, it was tongue heavy. Cant tell hooked to the canyon though LOL.

You will be fine, just leave distance for stopping and lane changing. Be concious about pulling out as well. The mirrors suck, but I was OK with my open for the most part.
 

CMNTMXR57

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I have pulled with both U-Haul and Penske trailers. I think the Penske ones are a little better and sturdier.

As mentioned, they are pretty heavy and sturdy overall.

I don't like how they hold the car in place. A web like strap that you wrap over the front tires and ratchet down. it works, but I'd prefer something a little more solid. But the few Penske's I have had, had plastic removeable wheel fenders which made things even easier. U-Haul's don't have this.

The surge breaking just takes some getting used to. Hearing the trailer making noise as the unit moves forward from the inertia movement does take getting used to. After that I have had a zero issues.
 

Angus

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Bumping this thread as I’m looking to make a large upgrade in travel trailers, but not too large for our Wagoneer to tow.


TV and TT specs below

2022 Wagoneer
Wheelbase: 123”
Curb weight: 6,190 lbs
GVWR: 7,650 lbs
GCWR: 13,700 lbs
Payload capacity: 1,550 lbs
Towing capacity: 7,170 lbs*

Potential Travel Trailer
Total length: 33’
Empty weight: 6,028 lbs
Hitch weight: 762 lbs

*Towing capacity would be 10,000 lbs and GCWR of 16,600 lbs with tow package that includes 3.92 gearing, brake controller (I’ve installed already) and “additional cooling” -in quotes because that’s only found on some marketing material but no parts can be found that would be different. All other hardware is the same so I’m comfortable being at the weight limit since I’m only at the limit of gearing/pulling, NOT the truck’s hitch, frame, suspension, brakes, steering, etc.

Think I’d be good? Or is this not realistic? I’d be investing in the best WDH and anti-sway device I could get (and carefully watch weights with cargo placement), knowing the length is on the longer side.
 

Yaj Yak

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One important thing is I'd weigh the trailer before purchase because I've heard of weights being super far off.

also a payload capacity of 1550 doesn't leave that much room for passengers/cargo in the vehicle.

1550 - 762 = 788 lbs which of course the WDH will subtract from this a chunk too... I forget how many family members you have
 

CMNTMXR57

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So you're saying all parts look the same, but have you actually checked to see if you have the 3.92 gear? Because that's something you'd have to either find the option code on a build sheet/sticker (not sure if FCA puts some code list like GM does with it's SPID sticker with RPO's on the vehicle, somewhere in the glove compartment, spare tire cover, etc...) or some form of ID on the axle and/or actually have to mark off revolutions of the drive shaft to one rotation of the wheel to find out what it is.

2,800 pounds of difference in ratings of the actual tow package and what you may or may not have, is a significant difference. You might want to verify what gear you really do have.

Edit: I found this as well as the fact that you have the 5.7L (from your new ride thread). If you're saying you're around 7,200 pound max, then that jives with the 5.7 and 3.21's. I think there is a transposition error in the manual as you can pull 10k with a 5.7L, but I think they mean with the 3.92 gear NOT 3.29.

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Angus

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Yeah, I have 3.21 gears with the 5.7.

I was saying that only gearing is what changes and the tow limits increase from 7,200 to 10,000 pounds.

(The newer wagoneers with the hurricane engines are even worse, going from ~5,600 to 10,000 pounds towing on gearing alone!)

So I think I feel just fine being at the limit of my 7,200 pounds since everything else on my truck (suspension, frame, brakes, etc.) is rated for 10,000 pounds. And if I’m towing over 7,200 lbs, I only would have issue with pulling up the steepest of grades, per the SAE tests.
 

Bob Kazamakis

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It is illegal to tow more than your vehicle is rated for fyi and you’ll be easy pickings towing a big trailer.
 

Yaj Yak

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Yaj Yak

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Yeah, I have 3.21 gears with the 5.7.

I was saying that only gearing is what changes and the tow limits increase from 7,200 to 10,000 pounds.

(The newer wagoneers with the hurricane engines are even worse, going from ~5,600 to 10,000 pounds towing on gearing alone!)

So I think I feel just fine being at the limit of my 7,200 pounds since everything else on my truck (suspension, frame, brakes, etc.) is rated for 10,000 pounds. And if I’m towing over 7,200 lbs, I only would have issue with pulling up the steepest of grades, per the SAE tests.


I think you'll be well over your limit of towing, and your payload capacity, quite quickly.

Dry weights don't include propane tank(s) or batteries I believe either.
 

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