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Ranger Brake line to rear

Mr_Roboto

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OK, Uncle has a 99 4X4 Ranger with a 4.0. The brake line to the hose in back is rusted through. Is this going to be as much of a pain in the dick as I think it's going to be? I have a roll and the tools to do inverted flare, just trying to figure out any tips/tricks. Seems like a gas tank drop may be advisable as well. Input?
 

Mr. SBF

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When I do brake lines I am always prepared to possibly do a few lines if things go bad... Pb blaster and a torch to heat the fittings up if they don't want to loosen. Good luck
 

Mr_Roboto

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Yeah, that's about the game plan along with pumping the gasoline out of the tank as much as possible. He filled it up right before he spewed his brake lines. Lovely.
 

Mr_Roboto

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What about yanking the bed? Someone mentioned that as an option.
 

Dasfinc

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What about yanking the bed? Someone mentioned that as an option.
I did this exact repair on my roomates old truck, if I recall correctly, pulling the bed was completely un-necessary unless you REALLY want super easy access.

There is only one line off the front ABS unit to the rear truck's T joint that sits above the rear differential.

Commonly it rusts right at the dog-leg it has by the cab corner, but that line just 'tucks' inside the C channel of the frame from what I recall.

The hardest part is getting a clean cut from CLEAN brake line, sometimes its easier to remove the rear line completely in pieces, and then pre-bend/pre-make the setup in 2 or 3 pieces and then install them.
 

Mr_Roboto

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I did this exact repair on my roomates old truck, if I recall correctly, pulling the bed was completely un-necessary unless you REALLY want super easy access.

There is only one line off the front ABS unit to the rear truck's T joint that sits above the rear differential.

Commonly it rusts right at the dog-leg it has by the cab corner, but that line just 'tucks' inside the C channel of the frame from what I recall.

The hardest part is getting a clean cut from CLEAN brake line, sometimes its easier to remove the rear line completely in pieces, and then pre-bend/pre-make the setup in 2 or 3 pieces and then install them.
I have a roll, so I figured I would just bend a sold line. Did you have to worry about the retainer clips at all?
 

Dasfinc

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I have a roll, so I figured I would just bend a sold line. Did you have to worry about the retainer clips at all?
Bending it out of one line is a bit hard, IIRC the bends you need off the ABS unit to under the cab made it easier to just make 2 separate lines. If you don't care about it looking super pretty or following the exact same path as the old one, this obviously doesn't matter.

Most those clips were in pretty good shape on the truck we were working on, and I think just 'pop-in', and aren't the serrated/locking kind. Granted the truck I was working on was a 2001, so I don't know if they changed designs for the clips at some point.
 

10sec

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I'd just take it to Jeff :rofl: I HATE working on rusted cars.
 

b4black

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You can unbolt the bed and prop up one side with a 2x4. Easier than completely removing it.

NiCopp brake line great stuff and super easy to bend & unbend and flare.
 

Dasfinc

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You can unbolt the bed and prop up one side with a 2x4. Easier than completely removing it.

NiCopp brake line great stuff and super easy to bend & unbend and flare.
I don't think people understand how much of a bitch rusted bed bolts are.

The HARD part is just getting the bolts out, or even backed up enough to tilt.

Removing the bed once the bolts are out is a one-man job for a ranger, even the metal beds don't weigh much at all.

Its really not worth even attacking them unless you are working on a fuel pump or fuel line.
 

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