Those things were amazing.Gmail tells me corbeau cr1 microsuede
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Those things were amazing.Gmail tells me corbeau cr1 microsuede
I think it's fairly easy and just some twist in t10 bulbs in the back of the cluster. I've got bulbs but have yet to adventure into there to fix one that's burned out.Can you update the gauge cluster? LEDs and such?
Gmail tells me corbeau cr1 microsuede
If you decide to change that I've got some brackets I'd get rid of real cheap. I had seats on backorder during the new age plague that never showed so I just ended up buying a parts car for the ones I wanted.Yeah, need a seat to fit a wide body.
I have the leather seats in my Camaro. Par for the course I guess.
If you decide to change that I've got some brackets I'd get rid of real cheap. I had seats on backorder during the new age plague that never showed so I just ended up buying a parts car for the ones I wanted.
Appreciate the offer. The GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 appears compact and adjustable and is what I hope will work.I looked into LEDs really hard when I was driving my bird and have a couple sets laying around I could send if you want to experiment. The biggest thing is gonna be getting them to fit in the housings without it being janky iirc. Of course it's next to impossible to find a size that will just pop in.
Soldering is great, and your job is already done.I dove into the headlight replacement, first starting to diagnose why the driver’s side headlights weren’t getting power.
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For the second time, the 5-pin headlight harness connector was corroded and gunky. I replaced this connector about 7 years ago, and it was serviceable this time, but that wasn’t my only problem. I hacked it together the last time, using poorly sized connectors and wrapping everything in copious amounts of electrical tape. A couple of connections were also corroded and falling out of the splice.
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I haven’t soldered anything before, so thought this was a good opportunity to learn. What a pain in the ass when there’s no slack and very little run from the harness to the end (also my doing, hacking it off too short last time).
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Anyway, everything worked after cleaning the connector and soldering the wires so I installed the new replacement LMC Truck headlights with 9006/9005 bulbs instead of sealed beams. Against the garage wall, the new housing (left) is much more focused than the original (right). This was with the engine off.
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After I get these lights in I need to align all the new hardware and then take it for a drive. I also plan to explore LED headlights but have some concerns with depth and the retracting headlights.
So I picked up these, and I love them. Just need a heat gun and wire stripper. The heat gun melts the metal solder insert so it wicks into the wire, and weather seals the connection at the same time. Strip wires, slide the end on, twist them together, and heat gun. Boom done.
Well, I'm gonna bet that your soldered connections are better than these. But, for most connections I'd say they are good enough. I mean, if simply twisting the wires together is good enough, then this is 10x better. And your straight soldered connections are better still.
You can see the burn marks on the tubing. I triedTheoretically you're not supposed to use solder on car wiring because it can work harden and break off. Done it anyways admittedly, so take it for what it's worth.
That said, you really forgot the last step on the original repair. Those light blue connectors are heat shrink butt splice connectors. They're really nice and not cheap shit like the regular ones. If you had the wire stripped to a good length (not way over stripped like a few of those) and took the bic lighter to them after you probably wouldn't be touching it again.
Soldering is great, and your job is already done.
But after the squirrels chewed the harness on the GTA and I had to fix nearly 25 PCM wires in a parking lot, dragging the soldering station out there and trying to solder int he engine bay just sounded a pain.
So I picked up these, and I love them. Just need a heat gun and wire stripper. The heat gun melts the metal solder insert so it wicks into the wire, and weather seals the connection at the same time. Strip wires, slide the end on, twist them together, and heat gun. Boom done.