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BUILD Quest for improved 4th gen Fbody drivability
- Thread starter Bru
- Start date
I think it's fairly easy and just some twist in t10 bulbs in the back of the cluster. I've got bulbs but have yet to adventure into there to fix one that's burned out.
Mine still look fine but I hate how the head restraints are nowhere near your head. I feel like your neck would snap in half before it hits the head restraint.
Laiiid back....with yer mind on yer money and your money under yer behind....
I love the corbeau in the tr.... It just takes a couple weeks of driving it before my ass cheeks mold to the seventeen inch width
At the dealership we used to clamp the headrest in the vise and bend the mount bars when customers requested changes.
It was a wrench with the twelve point teeth round out with a diagrinder that we used to gain leverage And not damage the chrome
I love the corbeau in the tr.... It just takes a couple weeks of driving it before my ass cheeks mold to the seventeen inch width
At the dealership we used to clamp the headrest in the vise and bend the mount bars when customers requested changes.
It was a wrench with the twelve point teeth round out with a diagrinder that we used to gain leverage And not damage the chrome
If you decide to change that I've got some brackets I'd get rid of real cheap. I had seats on backorder during the new age plague that never showed so I just ended up buying a parts car for the ones I wanted.
$40 Goodwill amp arrived. Looks well-taken care of. Retails for $189 new, so 
I dove into the headlight replacement, first starting to diagnose why the driver’s side headlights weren’t getting power.
For the second time, the 5-pin headlight harness connector was corroded and gunky. I replaced this connector about 7 years ago, and it was serviceable this time, but that wasn’t my only problem. I hacked it together the last time, using poorly sized connectors and wrapping everything in copious amounts of electrical tape. A couple of connections were also corroded and falling out of the splice.
I haven’t soldered anything before, so thought this was a good opportunity to learn. What a pain in the ass when there’s no slack and very little run from the harness to the end (also my doing, hacking it off too short last time).
Anyway, everything worked after cleaning the connector and soldering the wires so I installed the new replacement LMC Truck headlights with 9006/9005 bulbs instead of sealed beams. Against the garage wall, the new housing (left) is much more focused than the original (right). This was with the engine off.
After I get these lights in I need to align all the new hardware and then take it for a drive. I also plan to explore LED headlights but have some concerns with depth and the retracting headlights.
For the second time, the 5-pin headlight harness connector was corroded and gunky. I replaced this connector about 7 years ago, and it was serviceable this time, but that wasn’t my only problem. I hacked it together the last time, using poorly sized connectors and wrapping everything in copious amounts of electrical tape. A couple of connections were also corroded and falling out of the splice.
I haven’t soldered anything before, so thought this was a good opportunity to learn. What a pain in the ass when there’s no slack and very little run from the harness to the end (also my doing, hacking it off too short last time).
Anyway, everything worked after cleaning the connector and soldering the wires so I installed the new replacement LMC Truck headlights with 9006/9005 bulbs instead of sealed beams. Against the garage wall, the new housing (left) is much more focused than the original (right). This was with the engine off.
After I get these lights in I need to align all the new hardware and then take it for a drive. I also plan to explore LED headlights but have some concerns with depth and the retracting headlights.
I looked into LEDs really hard when I was driving my bird and have a couple sets laying around I could send if you want to experiment. The biggest thing is gonna be getting them to fit in the housings without it being janky iirc. Of course it's next to impossible to find a size that will just pop in.
Appreciate the offer. The GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 appears compact and adjustable and is what I hope will work.
GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 9006/HB4 LED Fog Light Bulbs | HR GTR.LED733
The GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 LED 9006/HB4 Bulb provides 900 lumens of bright light to your Fog Lights or DRLs. Amazing Quality and Lifespan. Headlight Revolution
www.headlightrevolution.com
Also, because 125k miles and 25 years old, the passenger side bump stop just fell off in the driveway. Dorman replacement on the left. 
Advance Auto wanted $52 for this. $30 on Amazon overnight.
Advance Auto wanted $52 for this. $30 on Amazon overnight.
Soldering is great, and your job is already done.
But after the squirrels chewed the harness on the GTA and I had to fix nearly 25 PCM wires in a parking lot, dragging the soldering station out there and trying to solder int he engine bay just sounded a pain.
So I picked up these, and I love them. Just need a heat gun and wire stripper. The heat gun melts the metal solder insert so it wicks into the wire, and weather seals the connection at the same time. Strip wires, slide the end on, twist them together, and heat gun. Boom done.
Well, I'm gonna bet that your soldered connections are better than these. But, for most connections I'd say they are good enough. I mean, if simply twisting the wires together is good enough, then this is 10x better. And your straight soldered connections are better still.
But the convenience is nice if its a pain to get a soldering iron into a tight spot.
Theoretically you're not supposed to use solder on car wiring because it can work harden and break off. Done it anyways admittedly, so take it for what it's worth.
That said, you really forgot the last step on the original repair. Those light blue connectors are heat shrink butt splice connectors. They're really nice and not cheap shit like the regular ones. If you had the wire stripped to a good length (not way over stripped like a few of those) and took the bic lighter to them after you probably wouldn't be touching it again.
That said, you really forgot the last step on the original repair. Those light blue connectors are heat shrink butt splice connectors. They're really nice and not cheap shit like the regular ones. If you had the wire stripped to a good length (not way over stripped like a few of those) and took the bic lighter to them after you probably wouldn't be touching it again.
Well I don't have any immediate need for these, but they are now saved in my amazon shopping list. so that if/when the day comes, I don't need to try and find this thread again
