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BUILD Quest for improved 4th gen Fbody drivability
- Thread starter Bru
- Start date
I thought the car's performance at the track day was shit, so I was a bit sour on the thing, but I found some silver linings after comparing the track day's run with my previous best: a 12.1 versus PB 11.8.
60-foot: PB 1.61 to track day 1.66 -- Honestly, not too bad considering I changed the shocks from stock replacements to Koni Yellows, and didn't adjust the front shocks from street trim. Plus, I ditched the tunnel-mounted torque arm for a UMI long arm. Those Hoosiers at work! And maybe the lighter wheels. All I did was take the slack out of the converter and mash it.
Back-half MPH: The track day run gained 9/10 a mph in eighth-mile to quarter-mile mph versus my PB, and in 90-degree heat and 3,000-foot DA, versus the -700 DA and high 40s temps of my PB. My overall trap was down, though; perhaps this is just within variance, or it indicates the ram air is working considering it gained more MPH in the same distance.
Really stretching it: The drag times DA corrector spit out 11.6 @ 116 mph.
Anyway, that was a long way to say maybe something isn't wrong with the car like I initially thought. I still want to scan it, and like the last time at the track I'm not thrilled about it puffing black smoke at higher RPMs.
60-foot: PB 1.61 to track day 1.66 -- Honestly, not too bad considering I changed the shocks from stock replacements to Koni Yellows, and didn't adjust the front shocks from street trim. Plus, I ditched the tunnel-mounted torque arm for a UMI long arm. Those Hoosiers at work! And maybe the lighter wheels. All I did was take the slack out of the converter and mash it.
Back-half MPH: The track day run gained 9/10 a mph in eighth-mile to quarter-mile mph versus my PB, and in 90-degree heat and 3,000-foot DA, versus the -700 DA and high 40s temps of my PB. My overall trap was down, though; perhaps this is just within variance, or it indicates the ram air is working considering it gained more MPH in the same distance.
Really stretching it: The drag times DA corrector spit out 11.6 @ 116 mph.
Anyway, that was a long way to say maybe something isn't wrong with the car like I initially thought. I still want to scan it, and like the last time at the track I'm not thrilled about it puffing black smoke at higher RPMs.
Ha! The stalled auto and 3.73 gear are great for getting out of the hole versus a manual car. That Vette caught me sleeping at the light but I still jumped out ahead until about the 1,000-foot mark where he came around (his 118 mph trap vs my 112 mph). It's the one thing I love about this current setup - that I can keep up with a lumpy cam wildly loud car with my stock-like idle and quiet exhaust.
Looks like I didn't update this thread after track day, but later in the summer I found that the cruise control adjuster was out and the throttle had a ton of slack in it, preventing me from WOT. Definitely would have hit 9s without the slack.
Looks like I didn't update this thread after track day, but later in the summer I found that the cruise control adjuster was out and the throttle had a ton of slack in it, preventing me from WOT. Definitely would have hit 9s without the slack.
Hilrod noticed this also on my car. Could be the reason for the lower or even dyno numbers.
whatever, my car is running great and some small items are on the schedule for 03/29/22
Started the car up for the first time this year and was quickly reminded that the gas gauge stopped working at the end of last year. Does the initial sweep but is dead when running. Sounds like a sending unit.
Installed a new stereo in the TA because new iPhones don’t work with the old ass receiver I had in there. Pioneer single din with a built-in phone holder instead of a CD player, and the mount rotates so I can use my phone in landscape or portrait for navigation. Genius, and works great.
PIONEER SPH10BT Single-DIN in-Dash Mechless Smart Sync Receiver with Bluetooth
Also installed a steering wheel control interface to make the steering wheel controls work, which haven’t for 10 years with that old stereo.
Also, I though I’d have to replace the fuel sending unit because the gauge dropped to zero, but would still do the full sweep at startup. Before that, I read a tip to fix a faulty fuel gauge by adding Seafoam to the tank that helps free gummed up contacts. And it worked. Fuel gauge functional.
On the downside, with the fuel tank full, I remembered that I have a problem where gas sloshes out of the filler in corners. Doh. Need to figure that one out. Thinking might be full charcoal canister or faulty cap. Appears like it’s coming from the vent holes in the filler neck.
PIONEER SPH10BT Single-DIN in-Dash Mechless Smart Sync Receiver with Bluetooth
Also installed a steering wheel control interface to make the steering wheel controls work, which haven’t for 10 years with that old stereo.
Also, I though I’d have to replace the fuel sending unit because the gauge dropped to zero, but would still do the full sweep at startup. Before that, I read a tip to fix a faulty fuel gauge by adding Seafoam to the tank that helps free gummed up contacts. And it worked. Fuel gauge functional.
On the downside, with the fuel tank full, I remembered that I have a problem where gas sloshes out of the filler in corners. Doh. Need to figure that one out. Thinking might be full charcoal canister or faulty cap. Appears like it’s coming from the vent holes in the filler neck.
you have a buncha damage at the cap gasket, but the anti siphon float ball must be missing as its a primary anti reversion meassure like the metal flap is the secondary
with how cheap the vent solenoid is id suggest having one on hand to toss in....i constantly see em with leaks and every now and then plugged with dirt in its foam filter.
at least your filler neck hasent rotted a hole in it like my CrapG
with how cheap the vent solenoid is id suggest having one on hand to toss in....i constantly see em with leaks and every now and then plugged with dirt in its foam filter.
at least your filler neck hasent rotted a hole in it like my CrapG
did the tank come out recently?
this is a zr2 but yours will be similar, is your ball still there? it prevents a siphon tube from being inserted but since it floats it will seal against a ring inside the neck hose area to prevent liquid fuel from flowing into the fill neck durring a rollover accident.
pic is partway down a green plastic ball
www.s10forum.com
but side from that the vent solenoid/hose cannister plugged is a possibility, keep in mind this is why they say not to "topoff" your tank during filling.
this is a zr2 but yours will be similar, is your ball still there? it prevents a siphon tube from being inserted but since it floats it will seal against a ring inside the neck hose area to prevent liquid fuel from flowing into the fill neck durring a rollover accident.
pic is partway down a green plastic ball
2002 S10 ZR2 cannot fill with fuel
I have searched the postings about this common issue but cannot find a solution. I apologize in advance for redundancy and would really appreciate ideas on how to solve this problem. Regardless of which pump I use I can't fill up my gas tank, the pump shuts off at 0.5 gallons and it will take...
www.s10forum.com
but side from that the vent solenoid/hose cannister plugged is a possibility, keep in mind this is why they say not to "topoff" your tank during filling.
A new gas cap fixed the problem with the fuel sloshing out of the filler neck while cornering. I believe two issues led to this: one, the o-ring on the existing cap appeared tattered and frayed, as well as slightly smaller diameter band. What’s interesting is that it was the exact same part number from AC Delco, GT299, which I ordered in 2016.
Secondly, the filler neck had some play and didn’t look seated in plastic shield that mounts with two screws, so I think the cap might have been bottoming out on the shield. The new cap tightens much stronger than the old one.
Secondly, the filler neck had some play and didn’t look seated in plastic shield that mounts with two screws, so I think the cap might have been bottoming out on the shield. The new cap tightens much stronger than the old one.
