At least put some toothpaste on there as a lapping compound! I'll do something like that, but the seat is only part of the problem here. This thing has a lot of nasty carbon deposits for a car that's had the breather tube removed and alky injection for the last 12 years. Part of me says that E85 will clean them up, but I'm also right here.Hear me out, rubber hose, hose clamped to the valve, and hose clamped to the screwdriver bit of your choice in a drill. Spin them lil bastids in there up against the seat until you can pour water in the port and it holds without leaking and done deal.
I may or may not have done this a few times.
I cleared off a spot on the work bench to get some real work done.
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I'm not worried about the valve cover gasket surface since it's a non machined cork seal anyway.
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Then I discovered some goofy shit while installing valve springs and stem seals. I thought I lost the first seal, and I couldn't get a new one installed.
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When I continued on, I noticed that the other two exhaust valves didn't have seals! I still couldn't believe it. Then I noticed that the exhaust stems have this extra step which would never allow for a seal to work anyway.
but I still couldn't believe it. After asking a buddy about it, apparently it's a thing to machine the guides and fit normal exhaust valves that will work with a seal, but none had any from the factory. WTF. No wonder these cars have an oil burning reputation!
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Goofy old springs on the left and new dual Comps on the right. I'm probably going to pull what I've done apart though. I feel like a chump for not cleaning these dirty valves.
I thought about that, but it's a can of worms that I'm not sure I want to open. Everyone seems to like the roller cams and I don't blame them. $1400 for a kit isn't chump change given the amount it will gain me though. Even if I decided to keep it simple with a flat tappet cam, I don't know how much cam and spring my cloyes timing set, stock retainers, or stock pushrods could handle. I would probably have to measure for new pushrods too which is not something I'm super comfortable with. I was hoping to try that out on the Camaro. lol You think it's worth bothering with a flat tappet?If you're going this far you may as well get a 204/214 to shove in there you're 99% the way there.
Leave the stock valvetrain alone. If it works don't screw with it unless your willing to go through the full hassle. Somethin I've learned from my camaro.
These guys ^^ listen to them.I will play devil's advocate here and say at least pull the #3 exh lifter and inspect the lobe and lifter.
Idk man. If it's a 2200 stall like the last owner said it was then it's already not what I should have. A nice 2600-2800 stall 10" converter seems to be the way for stock to mild turbo Regals. I'm willing to spend a bit for that because my stock turbo was shockingly laggy and that shouldn't have been the case.Interesting on the trans, saw the blue was asking questions right away. Curious what was done to it, but that's a meh just leave it thing too really unless you're gonna throw a grand into a converter.
Interesting. I may want to ask him about that. Full Throttle is selling lock up 2800 stall PTC converters for $800, but that is a lot of dough you never know if they have anything in stock. I usually have to wait a while for stuff.Looking up the part # that seems to be a 1800-2K converter (rated) although it may go higher in boost. I'd send it out for a restall probably and if possible get the fins furnace brazed. I had Carl do a restall for me and it was honestly not a ton of bank.
true, but it did USED to be fast! I just haven't felt that since about the first month of having the damn thing.You had a cracked header dunno if I would consider you as having a valid base line tbh.