🔧 BUILD PSJ's 1967 LS Turbo Camaro Build

General Information

Hi all, I bought this Pro Street 1967 Camaro. It had a 502 BBC crate engine and 8-71 supercharger. I have this driveline sold and it's getting pulled immediately.

LS + turbo is the plan. Maybe I'll keep it big tire and see who will want to grab a lane....

Current pic:
anthon ypic.jpg
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Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
TCG Premium
Sep 20, 2011
10,332
14,130
Chicago North Side
Well Sunday I drove Thee Hairy Banana for 90 minutes. Didn't skip a beat. Coolant temps were in the 180s until I decided to drive into downtown Chicago and hit heavy traffic. Then the car bounced between 194 and 203. I drove up Michigan Avenue (why I decided to do that I have no idea), and well the car was pretty damn loud lol. I escaped onto Lake Shore Drive, and the temps dropped from 203 to 194 in 3 miles. Over the remaining two miles the car briefly hit 189.

Very very very happy.

I have some things to do on the car (other aspects), ask me if curious), but as soon as I have free time I think I'll drive to Kenosha and back assuming I can find E85. Cuz I want to drive 2 hours. :)
 

Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
TCG Premium
Sep 20, 2011
10,332
14,130
Chicago North Side
So to recap for the curious:

Phase I:
-Removed and sold 502 BBC + 8-71 supercharger
-Removed and sold TH350 transmission

Phase II:
-Manna installed 5.3 LM7, TH400, and fabricated the turbo setup. Features a Shearerfab a/a intercooler, FI BW billet wheel S485/96 1.32.
-Engine features a Baker / Capizzi soft lobe cam, will spin it 7600-8000.
-Engine has High Ram intake, truck manifolds with added V bands, 5th gen water pump and a truck alternator.
-Used Dirty Dingo engine mounts, set engine back 1 inch. Used ICT smart coil brackets and alternator bracket/tensioner setup.

Phase III:
-Swapped to a different radiator, dual pass, inlet and outlet both on the passenger side. Decided to racecar and went 16AN for the coolant hoses.
-I did general wiring of the car, first the harness that runs the regular stuff, then started to plug in the Holley harnesses. Computer is a Dominator, and Brandon Doller built me a board/ relay board for it.
-I swapped out the drums on all corners to Strange 4 piston drag brakes on all corners. Also plumbed in Strange manual brake master cylinder, a line lock, and a Wilwood proportioning valve.
-I swapped front upper and lower control arms to BMR parts. Also went with V6 springs and double adjustable Viking front shocks.
-In the rear, I swapped on a set of single adjustable Strange shocks that I got for dirt, I do want to go with doubles in the near future, but I'm uncertain of what length shock I need and what lb springs to put back there.
-Pulled the 9" out, swapped the guts to 40 spline axles and a spool, Quick Performance parts.
-Installed Kirkey seats.
-Installed Pro Ratchet shifter.
-Installed Holley screen.
-Plumbed vacuum lines, reference lines to WGs and BOV.
-Swapped out Pro Stars and went to Sanders fronts and rears.
-Plumbed up trans cooler / fan under the passenger seat.
-Installed and plumbed fuel system, two pumps. 1 Bosch 04 for street driving, and 1 Weldon 2345A for big boost. Ran all lines, regulator etc.
-Had a buddy weld/ fab WG mounts. Running 2 PTE 46 WGs.
-Pulled and rebuilt steering column

Phase IV:
-Fixed some wiring issues.
-Fixed some cooling issues.
-Installed coolant recovery tank.

What is left (nothing on this list precludes me from driving the car as is).
-I still need to swap over to race style ladder bars, they have rod ends. But this swap will require I take some measurements to figure out some spacers I will need.
-Alignment
-Swap WG springs to 7 lb ones.
-Figure out / research what length shocks I need for rear and what lb springs. This issue is not dire, more of a get to it kinda thing.
 

Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
TCG Premium
Sep 20, 2011
10,332
14,130
Chicago North Side
So a little update. I had my buddies in Western MI fix my cooling issues and go over the wiring on the car about a month ago. Since then I have driven the car three times, 30 minutes, 90 minutes and then yesterday 45 minutes.

Yesterday I had to mess with my track bar (ladder bar setup) before I could drive it. Basically the poly bushing in back worked it's way over the lock nut. That is my fault, I had a tall washer in front and not in the rear, I must have forgotten that.

I then drove for 45 minutes, was great, coolant temps were 183-189 most of the time. I had a little scare that cut my ride short, had a weird noise up front. Turns out my lower coolant hose was pushing on the shroud plastics.
nana wrigley.jpg
 

Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
TCG Premium
Sep 20, 2011
10,332
14,130
Chicago North Side
So what am I up to?

Here is my punch list:
  • Install side mirrors - Completed
  • Install Glasstek cowl panel that I didn't need - Completed
  • Move neutral safety switch off shifter handle because it hits the cover
  • Swap over to 7 lb WG springs
  • Swap on 295/65/15 MT drag radials
  • Swap ladders to 2nd set with rod ends
  • Figure out what lb coil over spring to run in back, and what length shocks
  • Final Boss, get an alignment
A few of those tasks are related and have to be done in a certain order. I was having a problem sourcing the right size spherical heim rod end for the front, Alston bars use a 1 1/4 shank end with a 3/4 hole and nobody makes something like that. Then a chassis guy I just got to know (JC @ Performance Concepts in Mokena) suggested I just re-thread the front of the bar for 3/4 shank ends... I didn't know that was an option. Well he did them today, Just need to get down there and pick them up.

I have 3/4 shank heims on order from Summit, should be here in a few days. QA1 bad boys, strongest I could find in this size, $50 each.

I will be running solid rod ends in back.

Since I was not 100% sure my track locater bar (anyone want a pic to see what I'm talking about?) is the right length, I splurged and ordered a new bar that can be cut down to size.

So over the next couple of days I'll be doing a mix of things, I'll pull off my wheels and bring them and the taller drag radials to Chris H @ Golf Crawford Auto Service to swap the tires, and I'll be putting the back of the car up on stands so I can pull off the current set of ladder bars, one at a time. I will line up the bolts in the old set to the new set which should get me decently close. I will be going up 1-2 holes on the front cross member so I'll probably have to make some small adjustments. I'll put the old track bar on for now (has all poly bushing stuff) and then bring the car to my friend Eddie V in Mt Prospect to make the new one and to square up the car.

After all that between him, and a few folks I'll figure out what length / weight spring to run in back and what shocks to go with.

banana rear.jpg
 

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