🔧 BUILD PSJ's 1967 LS Turbo Camaro Build

General Information

Hi all, I bought this Pro Street 1967 Camaro. It had a 502 BBC crate engine and 8-71 supercharger. I have this driveline sold and it's getting pulled immediately.

LS + turbo is the plan. Maybe I'll keep it big tire and see who will want to grab a lane....

Current pic:
anthon ypic.jpg
View attachment 169378
  • Like
Reactions: Rico and sktchy

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,646
16,117
hangover park IL
I have like 20 of the omron/delphi 70 amp, 10ga OEM relay setups in with all my metripack stuffs if you want to fix it right away.

I never find the tyco relays in parts stores.... At least some of them stock the seventy amp OEM relay....75$ each.

If you look up plow parts you can find the solenoid style relays that are constant duty.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,646
16,117
hangover park IL
Also see if he'll set you up with some double redundancy. My critical stuff has backup relays wired in parallel. Fuel pump, dual 40amp omron metripack weatherproof, coolant fans-dual 70amp.

Also packard/delphi are full of s*** when they say that the metripack 150 (1.5 millimeter blades) can handle up to 14 amps.

Even 280s have voltage drop at 14amps.... And I never even tested them at the nearly 200ďľź under hood temps that they normally see.

All that fan stuff better be using 630 or larger 800s
 
  • Like
Reactions: LikeABauce302

strtcar

Regular
Oct 28, 2007
494
2,399
Also see if he'll set you up with some double redundancy. My critical stuff has backup relays wired in parallel. Fuel pump, dual 40amp omron metripack weatherproof, coolant fans-dual 70amp.

Also packard/delphi are full of s*** when they say that the metripack 150 (1.5 millimeter blades) can handle up to 14 amps.

Even 280s have voltage drop at 14amps.... And I never even tested them at the nearly 200ďľź under hood temps that they normally see.

All that fan stuff better be using 630 or larger 800s
Not to hijack thread but how do you wire up double redundancy?
 

LikeABauce302

TCG Elite Member
Aug 27, 2013
5,926
16,513
South suburbs
Real Name
Matt
Not to hijack thread but how do you wire up double redundancy?
Just wire 2 relays in parallel. I did this for my fuel pump. Just connect the 2 power out wires from the relays to your one power input wire on your fan, fuel pump, electric water pump, or whatever it is you're powering.

Here's a basic auxiliary relay board I made awhile ago. If you look closely, you can see the 2 power out wires from the 2 relays on the right go to one terminal.

IMG_20180220_212059_969.jpg
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,646
16,117
hangover park IL
Separate fuses separate power wires separate grounds all the way back to the battery with usually an auxiliary ground to the chassie nearby.

I live for finding the oem maxifuse blocks... These things are nearly fusable links in slowness to blow and minimal voltage drop AND you can get self resetting 20'30'40'50 amp Breakers that plug right in.

i chop the harness as far away as I can to get every inch I can of the sweet 10 and 12 gauge goodness of 90s gm Oem wiring When copper was cheap and the bean counters minimal

Bonnie's, park Aves, oh baby I'm clubbing just thinking about it

Ato n minifuses are control side hardware in my book.

An old timer showed me this, he'd wire in a light bulb between the 2 relay outputs so that if one relay died the light bulb would light up Indicating a relay had failed

he made the point that 1 relay is always gonna be a little slower than the other and that relay will probably live a really long life and never have any issues as well as the least voltage drop while the other takes the brunt of the kick before current drops by half upon arrival of the slow guy.


You can do the same thing nowadays with one of thoselights up when blown fuses that you see in the part store. Just get a small 1 amp one that'll pop right away and turn on the little red LED light.

I don't do that, I just clamp on a Current probe And pull each fuse in turn before I go beating on it.

The turbo regal is actually a little stupid as it actually has three relays in parallel for the fuel pumps

Most of this stuff is becoming a moot point nowadays with the centralized power systems and solid state relays they have.

But then I look at how so many cars nowadays. I end up throwing away an entire component because only a small portion of it failed and I really don't like those odds.

I'll stick with hardwired redundancy and electromechanicals
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,646
16,117
hangover park IL
Hey john Before I forget do you know whether The alternator is referencing remote voltage or is it just local reference and PCM field control?

I know the Bosh alternators were controlled differently but the Delphi Delco alternators, some you could have the regulator reference voltage remotely (even battery temp) and I recommend running that wire to the power in on the secondary side of your fan relays instead of batt +..... That will let it regulate better under the load transition.
 

Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
TCG Premium
Sep 20, 2011
10,625
14,534
Chicago North Side
Hey john Before I forget do you know whether The alternator is referencing remote voltage or is it just local reference and PCM field control?

I know the Bosh alternators were controlled differently but the Delphi Delco alternators, some you could have the regulator reference voltage remotely (even batter temp) and I recommend running that wire to the load side of your fan relays instead of batt +..... That will let it regulate better under the load transition.
I don't the answer to the first question.

I can eventually look into your suggestion.
 

Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
TCG Premium
Sep 20, 2011
10,625
14,534
Chicago North Side
Fixed the fan, really just swapped out the relay for a slightly higher rated one. Now I can address the driveline vibration issue.

Oh wait.

I was seeing really low and negative oil pressure readings when I last drove the car, 6 at idle and -2.7 cruising. Tried a new Napa oem sensor (had oem in the car before) and that and a Lowdoller both show up 0 on my dash but engine again sounds fine.

First thing I will do is swap in a new AC Delco reccomended PN sensor, and try that. If it's reading 0 at the dash, then I m going to use a mechanical pressure gauge to check the pressure from the engine, and also use some compressed air aimed into the hole in the sensor to test stuff. A few buddies think it's wiring. I'm not really sure at this point.

On the positive I get to learn some new stuff.

1686090727878.png


1686090747341.png
 

sktchy

⚠️🫠
TCG Premium
Jul 27, 2021
7,749
12,028
Oil pressure circuit is pretty simple. There's two or three wires. Ones a ground. Another is a 5v reference. You want the 5v wire. 9 times out of ten inspecting the coating on the wire will tell you all you need to know. Look for rub spots in the loom or tight turns, kinks, burns etc. I doubt this issue comes down to needing to break out a scope and pinouts of your pcm.
 

Pro Stock John

LS is the best engine
TCG Premium
Sep 20, 2011
10,625
14,534
Chicago North Side
Well:
1- try one more sensor, gennie AC Delco part
2- it was still 0, will screw in mechanical gauge and run it, It used to make well over 30 at idle, so I'd hope for something like that
3- blow compressed air into the sensor hole, what do you think about that?

That's my plan, step 1 will take 3 minutes.

Wiring might be a little bit of a bish on my car, the oil sensor wiring is part of a holley harness.
 

Thread Info