Project Jaggoff

huh?!

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Here is the story - I don't have a cool build name or project name and I really dont care to come up with one.

i bought an 03/04 cobra motor from throttle body to oil pan for a RIDICULOUS price that came direct from Ford (corporate/manufacturing). Only issue is no one knows it history. It was an orphan (not on any inventory list) in a warehouse full of Ford Racing stuff (crate engines, cut-away engines, other performance parts). Got it home and pulled a few things like the plenum....no oil whatsoever (no faint residue - nothing) on the plenum or throttle body. haven't pulled the supercharger yet but am not expecting any. All the pullies look barely used (i.e., almost like start up time). Effectively no road grime. Now, I have no idea what it looks like inside but I will eventually pull the oil pan and take a look.

The pics below are after a few hours of taking things off the motor like the tensioner bridge, alternator, alternator brackets etc. I pulled the valve covers to have them powdercoated, along with a marauder timing cover and I was further surprised when I pulled the valve covers - the internals of the heads from the top side look brand new....cams, chains, springs.

My plan before dropping it in my marauder:
98 cobra cams advanced 4 degrees
Ported blower
Pullied
maybe longtubes (not sure on funds just yet)

Questions I know I'll have shortly:
1. Degreeing cams
2. Fuel situation - what to use, how to set it up (return, returnless, etc.)
3. Injectors - already have 39# blue tops but are they enough???
4. Vac line wiring/Engine harness modification

Goals:
+500 rwhp/rwtq DRIVER on 93 octane on street tune.

Thoughts? Comments?
 

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SC Cheesehead

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Ooooooooooooh!

Me likey Eatons on 4Vs, especially in Marauders! :biggthump
 

musclemerc

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The stock cam timing has shown to be off quite a bit from bank to bank by as much as 10* +. So my question to you is, if the cams aren't degreed your advancing 4* from what? What LC are you shooting for?

A stock pullied and ported Eaton will not be enough to get you to 500HP/TQ you will need other supporting mods. More then likely you will be in the 400~430HP range. Remember these are not Mustangs we have a 4300lb curb weight

Ditch the Eaton and go for a Whipple, Lynsholm, or TVS if you plan on getting those kind of numbers.

You can save some cash on LTs by finding a good used set of BBK headers they bolt right up and require little modification to make them work. PM me for more info on doing the install
 

wolfe

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I don't know what the mauraders have for pumps, but I know a termi needs at least a boost a pump with a ported eaton. And upgraded injectors. You will have to do the headers to get close to that 500 level, will be hard to hit even with.
 

huh?!

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Thanks for the responses and feedback. After re-reading my post, I think I'm going about what I'm asking/trying to figure out all wrong.

Right now, my goal is to max out the Heaton before the motor gets put in. I am sending it off for porting and will install an interchangeable upper and larger lower. I will be HAPPY with any power it puts out because I do understand the heaton's limitations (having previously owned and built an 03 Harley f-150) and our weight limitations.

I have a set of 98 cobra cams sitting in my garage that I was just going to drop in the marauder before this. Is there a reason I shouldnt use them?

I'm all honesty, what I think I know about cams is from your (musclemerc) very helpful posts and the only way I'm really going to understand is getting my hands dirty. Figure what better way than with a motor sitting on a pallat in my garage.
 

huh?!

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P.S. I want this done correct and would like to do as much myself as possible. At least then, if it is fucked up I know I'm the one who fucked it up and can learn from what happened.
 

Zack

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Headers, 60# injectors, 340lph pump with BAP, posi ported Eaton and 16 psi will get you right at 500rwhp.
You will throw 1000 at the Eaton to get here....when you can find a used Whipple for under 2500 and make 540rwhp.
 

musclemerc

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Thanks for the responses and feedback. After re-reading my post, I think I'm going about what I'm asking/trying to figure out all wrong.

Right now, my goal is to max out the Heaton before the motor gets put in. I am sending it off for porting and will install an interchangeable upper and larger lower. I will be HAPPY with any power it puts out because I do understand the heaton's limitations (having previously owned and built an 03 Harley f-150) and our weight limitations.

I have a set of 98 cobra cams sitting in my garage that I was just going to drop in the marauder before this. Is there a reason I shouldnt use them?

I'm all honesty, what I think I know about cams is from your (musclemerc) very helpful posts and the only way I'm really going to understand is getting my hands dirty. Figure what better way than with a motor sitting on a pallat in my garage.
Absolutley, you should use the 98 cams, they will add up to 30HP/TQ SC'ed if you take the time and degree them. I will PM you LC numbers that will get the most out of them. The tools to degree them will set you back a little but it will be money well spent.

BTW: you have enough in Cobra parts that wont be used on the MM to resell. Timing cover, Stock Eaton, crank pully, alt bracket, intercooler hardlines, stock headers, COT, etc.

P.S. I want this done correct and would like to do as much myself as possible. At least then, if it is fucked up I know I'm the one who fucked it up and can learn from what happened.
My Dad always said to me "Son either we're gonna fix it... Or fuck it up" LOL!!!

I'm the same way, save your money and do it yourself :headbang:
 

huh?!

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Absolutley, you should use the 98 cams, they will add up to 30HP/TQ SC'ed if you take the time and degree them. I will PM you LC numbers that will get the most out of them. The tools to degree them will set you back a little but it will be money well spent.

BTW: you have enough in Cobra parts that wont be used on the MM to resell. Timing cover, Stock Eaton, crank pully, alt bracket, intercooler hardlines, stock headers, COT, etc.
Thanks! Would really appreciate the info re cams. Don't mind the cost if reasonable.

Already have a number of parts taken off and getting ready to sell. Still have a few other things I need to collect for the motor swap as well like bap, fuel pump, COT and i/c pump.

With everything showing up, my wife is starting to freak (and after a complete engine showing up, rightfully so) and now she's asked me for a plan with numbers. So, I'm putting together a worst case, base case and target case presentation with spreadsheets...I can make shit dance with spreadsheets. Lol!!!!!
 

Zack

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Thanks! Would really appreciate the info re cams. Don't mind the cost if reasonable.

Already have a number of parts taken off and getting ready to sell. Still have a few other things I need to collect for the motor swap as well like bap, fuel pump, COT and i/c pump.

With everything showing up, my wife is starting to freak (and after a complete engine showing up, rightfully so) and now she's asked me for a plan with numbers. So, I'm putting together a worst case, base case and target case presentation with spreadsheets...I can make shit dance with spreadsheets. Lol!!!!!
I have a pressure tested, modified COT ready to ship.
$220 shipped and i get your stock COT in return.
 

huh?!

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Headers, 60# injectors, 340lph pump with BAP, posi ported Eaton and 16 psi will get you right at 500rwhp.
You will throw 1000 at the Eaton to get here....when you can find a used Whipple for under 2500 and make 540rwhp.
If i understand correctly, wouldnt I still need a bap, 60#s and a 340 fuel pump for 2.3 whipple?

While I'm super excited and want to put it in ASAP, I do not NEED to put it in right away. I miss my whippled Harley truck and tinkering with it, and I've turned into a complete degenerate in the 4 years since I sold it.

As I said, I want to do this right from the get go.

This isn't my daily driver but I like to drive it ALOT (I'm a sleeper car kind of guy), thus would like to build a solid, powerful driver.

I have absolutely no problem re-evaluating how to go about things if it makes sense (and I'm usually the out-layer so it's easy to convince me of ruh-tarded stuff) :D
 

huh?!

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I have a pressure tested, modified COT ready to ship.
$220 shipped and i get your stock COT in return.
Unfortunately, I think I have Terry's new style brackets and from what I understand your cot may not work with them. I think I am going to mock up my engine when I get the valve covers and timing cover back from powder coating to take measurements.
 

Zack

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If i understand correctly, wouldnt I still need a bap, 60#s and a 340 fuel pump for 2.3 whipple?

While I'm super excited and want to put it in ASAP, I do not NEED to put it in right away. I miss my whippled Harley truck and tinkering with it, and I've turned into a complete degenerate in the 4 years since I sold it.

As I said, I want to do this right from the get go.

This isn't my daily driver but I like to drive it ALOT (I'm a sleeper car kind of guy), thus would like to build a solid, powerful driver.

I have absolutely no problem re-evaluating how to go about things if it makes sense (and I'm usually the out-layer so it's easy to convince me of ruh-tarded stuff) :D
Anything over 500rwhp and I think you should have a return fuel system.
You will need all the stuff I mentioned for the Whipple. The trans wont last forever either with a Whipple.
 

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