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Lord Tin Foilhat

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Currently annoyed as shit right now at my Gaming PC.

Averaging 47C at idle, doing NOTHING.

And during gaming sessions, mid 80's. If I hit it with prime 95, instantly to 90c and it throttles down to 4.1ghz. The CPU 3dmark score dropped from 11,700, to 11,000.

I just cleaned and reapplied the thermal paste, no difference. All fans are working and clean. The AIO pump is working.

I changed the orientation of the AIO radiator to see if maybe there was an air bubble in there I couldn't hear, and nope, nothing.

Only thing I can think of is some kind of change in the BIOS when I recently flashed it causing CPU Vcore to spike the temps. There is no WAY this system should hit 90° full load.

When I built it, the max it would see was 73° on a Prime 95 burn-in.

I don't hear any air bubbles, but I think the AIO has something in it, causing problems. Unfortunately, I'm really limited on cooler height in my case, which is why I went with an NZXT Kraken X53. Which should easily handle a Ryzen 5800x (and it did, when I first built it).

View attachment 153011
can you run a separate cooler with the case open to see if it keeps temps down?
 

Thirdgen89GTA

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Holy crap that's hot. Surprised it's not causing problems.
I’m really confused as to why it would be so hot.

All fans are working. Case ambient temperature is room temp, too. Temp is about 70*f

Nothing is clogged. So plenty of airflow.

And the run from idle to 90*c is instant. Soon as I hit start on prime 95 it’s at 90*c. Within 15 seconds of stopping the load it’s back to idle temps.

I need to find a way to log both cpu, liquid, ambient, and load in a single graph. Unfortunately liquid and ambient temps aren’t available in msi ab.

And liquid temp is only available in nzxt’s app,and I couldn’t find a logging option.

At this point I want to try flashing back to an older bios. And if that doesn’t work I’ll need to put an air cooler on it to see if it’s the AIO.
 

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Thirdgen89GTA

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Still annoyed as shit right now at the temps. Updated to the latest bios F37, was on F36, and prior to that, was on F36a (when the temps were good). No changes. Gonna go back to F36a and see if that fixes it.

All I've done so far is boot the system up, and browse the web. and its at mid 50's to mid 60's with basically zero load.

If none of these BIOS changes work, I'm going to have to take a hard look at either the Cooler, or the Vcore, so I'll have to log Vcore and see what its at. That's the only things I can think of next affecting the temps so strongly.

1677678712587.png
 

Thirdgen89GTA

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So, here is a log of the GPU/CPU temps and loads from when 3DMark was running. Oddly enough I just scored my highest ever score, and I wasn't even overclocking it beyond letting AMD's PBO do what it wants to do normally.

The slowest the CPU went, during the CPU score was 4.37ghz, and it averaged 4.5ghz during the tests. But the CPU score is still down almost 700pts, 11700 when new, to 11,000 today.

I've checked everything, the only thing I can think of is maybe the cold plate on the AIO is not flat any more, like maybe it warped somehow over time. I don't really have a way to check that with tolerances as close as those are. I suppose I could take the coldplate off and try lapping it for flatness. I don't hear air-bubbles, so I don't think coolant in the loop is a problem.

1677800560941.png
 

Thirdgen89GTA

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I’m sure you’ve heard about the… I believe MSI AIO’s overheating or undercooling, is it possible something like that could be your issue, some sort of issue with the thermal plate and the coolant?

I know yours isn’t MSI..


I could possibly be the same thing, its only a year or so old. But its not an MSI, its a NZXT Kraken X53. I'd hate to open it up though and have some coolant leak out. Then have to find a way to try and re-fill it. I'd probably have to drill, and tap a hole in the radiator end-tank to do it.

I'm halfway tempted to just buy a different case, go back to a larger air cooler, and not have the limitations of an ITX format.

I built my computer in the Corsair 380T originally because I had the intention of being able to easily bring it to a friends house for a LAN party or something. And I really haven't ever brought it anywhere.

I could also just ditch the system entirely and just move the 3080ti into the server, and game from a VM. Problem solved.
 
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Maro

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If anyone is looking, the Samsung 980 Pro 2TB Gen 4 is on sale for $160:


View attachment 153771
Not surprised these are heavily discounted after they shit the bed


According to Puget, the failures traced back to the 3B2QGXA7 firmware and primarily affect 2TB versions of the 980 Pro
 
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Thirdgen89GTA

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Thirdgen89GTA

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bikrboy128

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Jeebus, this is an insane deal. $600 for a 7900x, 690p mobo, AND 32fb of DDR5 ram.


I got that email. I don't need it, but that's an enticing deal.
 

Chester Copperpot

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Jeebus, this is an insane deal. $600 for a 7900x, 690p mobo, AND 32fb of DDR5 ram.

Got dayum.

My debacle is my next upgrade will be video card. 5600X/B550-A Pro works just fine for what I do.
 

Thirdgen89GTA

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So my APC SmartUPS BR1300G UPS for the Gaming PC and Desktop area died. Suddenly freaked out and sounded like I had a power surge, then everything DIED. Monitor, Gaming PC, anything connected to the surge only UPS outlets....just quit with an F04 message (Clamp Fault). Tried the trouble shooting procedures in the manual and the only way to get it to work was with the battery removed. I didn't try putting a load on it with the battery removed to see if it would do the Clamp Fault error. Still gonna do more trouble shooting to see if it can somehow be traced to the battery. It would be nice if it as a battery issue, but I've seen several battery issues and the UPS always works fine, just fails when switching to battery.

So, I plugged all my stuff into the main server UPS. Then I started gaming again.

LoL, really pushing the UPS hard! When gaming, the UPS is putting out 1kw and it only has like 7m of runtime.

APC offers trade-in value on busted UPS that are out of warranty, mine might still be in warranty, can't remember when I bought it. So I'm gonna check the warranty and see how much credit I get from APC as a trade-in.

Part of me wants to load the Server up and see how much juice the whole system can suck up, but I bet that under full load from both game, and server, I can hit 1500w load, which MIGHT be enough trip my outlet as its just a standard 15a outlet.

3/18/2023 10:41:18956 Watts
3/18/2023 10:51:18994 Watts
3/18/2023 11:01:181006 Watts
3/18/2023 11:11:18991 Watts
3/18/2023 11:21:18962 Watts
3/18/2023 11:31:18985 Watts
3/18/2023 11:41:18997 Watts
 

Thirdgen89GTA

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Down in IL today. Having really a hard time not going to Microcenter and picking up that 7900X deal.
That is a SUPER tempting deal. Lots of Performance for the $$. They also have a 7600x with 16GB of the slower DDR5-5600 ram, and a B650 mobo for $400. I think the $200 is worth the performance difference, double the ram. faster ram too, better Mobo, and way better CPU for another $200.


I don't need any more CPU right now than my 5800x gives me since it won't help in gaming. And now that I have the EPYC server it just destroys Handbrake stuff so well that I have no need of upgrading the Gaming CPU to do better transcoding.
 
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Mr_Roboto

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That is a SUPER tempting deal. Lots of Performance for the $$. They also have a 7600x with 16GB of the slower DDR5-5600 ram, and a B650 mobo for $400. I think the $200 is worth the performance difference, double the ram. faster ram too, better Mobo, and way better CPU for another $200.


I don't need any more CPU right now than my 5800x gives me since it won't help in gaming. And now that I have the EPYC server it just destroys Handbrake stuff so well that I have no need of upgrading the Gaming CPU to do better transcoding.
I'm starting to think more seriously about it; Looking at CPUmark on my 1055T it's an order of magnitude lower than this CPU. Jeebus fuck. Then again my gaming is minimal so I question the need.
 

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