đź’¦ Detailing Polishing/Wax pads
- Thread starter JFish75
- Start date
I would swap out the HF backing plate for a Lake County 5" backing plate. Then you can use Lake County Smart or Hybrid pads.
Gav and a few other guys can give you better advice.
But I would take all the proper prep steps and do it correctly. Meaning at the minimum, wash with Clean Slate, Iron X, clay bar or mitt and wash again with clean slate. That should help strip most of the old shit off. After that, then decide what actually needs to be done as far as paint correction.
Gav and a few other guys can give you better advice.
But I would take all the proper prep steps and do it correctly. Meaning at the minimum, wash with Clean Slate, Iron X, clay bar or mitt and wash again with clean slate. That should help strip most of the old shit off. After that, then decide what actually needs to be done as far as paint correction.
I used this... I either picked it up at AutoZone or ordered it. Worked really well for me.
Brilliant Finish™ Synthetic Clay
Synthetic clay provides faster removal of stubbornly entrenched contaminants, improved durability, and cleans more cars than clay bars.
www.griotsgarage.com
okay, so the couch monster got me last night, sorry for the delay.
To start, if you are planning to clay the vehicle, then it's possible that you will need to polish the paint before adding your layer of protection.
Clay bars, mitts, sponges etc are abrasive even in their mildest offering. It's difficult to suggest a product knowing that you may go straight to Waxing.
With that said, Pinnacle clay bars are very very mild and "should" not mar the surface. Another "bar" would be the AM Details ( from the UK ) white clay bar. Car supplies WHSE ( Chicago Auto Pros ) may carry this.... I think they do ?
As for "synthetic" clay media, I use the Nanoskin handy towel which is in between Mild and Medium. I have not seen much marring on the vehicles I have used it on.
Obsessed garage likes using the Nanoskin fine sponge BUT When I used it, it marred the paint BADLY on
blueoval4life 750iL.
If you decide to go with a sponge or mitt, be sure to "break it in" by using it on the glass first.
Tip: Wash and dry the vehicle. Once dry use a sandwich bag over you fingers to feel the surface. if you do not feel any bumps/contamination then a clay step is not necessary. Could be only the middle to lower panels that need a spot clay.
I agree with Shawn to purchase a hook and loop backing plate ( velcro... and if your machine did not come with one ) so that you can interchange pads in the future.
The pads are for applying the product, not removal. You may be reliving the days of the 10" orbital polisher with the terry towel bonnets. The bonnet or in this case, your pad would get loaded with product and would need to be changed quite often.
Instead, grab a dozen decent quality MF towels and used them to remove the wax.
Additional reading if interested.
If you are only looking to machine apply wax or sealant, then a lake country finishing pad is what you're looking for.
Depending on the type of pad ( there are certain pads that are designed for long throw machines so the "color" of the pad may vary ).
Typically BLUE, BLACK and/or RED are the finishing pads. This info will be clearly documented on whichever site you choose to purchase from.
For example
www.detailedimage.com
To start, if you are planning to clay the vehicle, then it's possible that you will need to polish the paint before adding your layer of protection.
Clay bars, mitts, sponges etc are abrasive even in their mildest offering. It's difficult to suggest a product knowing that you may go straight to Waxing.
With that said, Pinnacle clay bars are very very mild and "should" not mar the surface. Another "bar" would be the AM Details ( from the UK ) white clay bar. Car supplies WHSE ( Chicago Auto Pros ) may carry this.... I think they do ?
As for "synthetic" clay media, I use the Nanoskin handy towel which is in between Mild and Medium. I have not seen much marring on the vehicles I have used it on.
Obsessed garage likes using the Nanoskin fine sponge BUT When I used it, it marred the paint BADLY on
blueoval4life 750iL. If you decide to go with a sponge or mitt, be sure to "break it in" by using it on the glass first.
Tip: Wash and dry the vehicle. Once dry use a sandwich bag over you fingers to feel the surface. if you do not feel any bumps/contamination then a clay step is not necessary. Could be only the middle to lower panels that need a spot clay.
I agree with Shawn to purchase a hook and loop backing plate ( velcro... and if your machine did not come with one ) so that you can interchange pads in the future.
The pads are for applying the product, not removal. You may be reliving the days of the 10" orbital polisher with the terry towel bonnets. The bonnet or in this case, your pad would get loaded with product and would need to be changed quite often.
Instead, grab a dozen decent quality MF towels and used them to remove the wax.
Additional reading if interested.
If you are only looking to machine apply wax or sealant, then a lake country finishing pad is what you're looking for.
Depending on the type of pad ( there are certain pads that are designed for long throw machines so the "color" of the pad may vary ).
Typically BLUE, BLACK and/or RED are the finishing pads. This info will be clearly documented on whichever site you choose to purchase from.
For example
Lake Country Black Fine Finishing Pad - 5.5"
Designed to apply ultra fine polishes, sealants and liquid waxes. Also commonly used to burnish the paint to a high gloss with a gloss enhancing polish.
www.detailedimage.com
So I just got taken to school and it sounds like I should "unlearn" everything I thought I knew. In any event, my machine does have a Velcro backing plate although it is big at 7 inches (that's what she said), and I previously used a black pad. I had previously applied the wax by hand and used this to remove it, that is the bigger chore as far as I am concerned so t seems logical that would be the what the machine is for.
As far as the clay now I am slightly frightened by it, lol. I have only heard great things about it but never actually used any, in the past my friends have said they used it before wax and it turned out great but they are not professionals either.
I like to think that my car is pretty clean and the free of debris however I have never done anything but clean it regularly and wax it once each season, I have used detailing spray wax periodically in between. The car sits in the garage and has only seen rain a few times since I have had it. It never really gets dirty, except for the occasional track day, but is then cleaned shortly thereafter.
Should I even bother with the clay bar/mitt then? Or just wash and wax it?
As far as the clay now I am slightly frightened by it, lol. I have only heard great things about it but never actually used any, in the past my friends have said they used it before wax and it turned out great but they are not professionals either.
I like to think that my car is pretty clean and the free of debris however I have never done anything but clean it regularly and wax it once each season, I have used detailing spray wax periodically in between. The car sits in the garage and has only seen rain a few times since I have had it. It never really gets dirty, except for the occasional track day, but is then cleaned shortly thereafter.
Should I even bother with the clay bar/mitt then? Or just wash and wax it?
I don't want to drag you down the rabbit hole but I will suggest the "proper" way of doing things.
but
at the end of the day, it's your car and it's your time, so it's your decision.
Even as a fair weather vehicle, there are air born contaminants that can bond to the paint. Ever see those fancy pictures or videos where the fallout remover ( Iron X ) is turning the car purple?
Well, for the most part those are iron / metal particles that have bonded to the paint. No rain you say ? Well, when you drive, your brakes are still engaged. The brake dust can contribute to the bonded contaminants. Other peoples cars, exhaust, brakes etc can contribute as well.
WAX lasts 2-3 months if you are lucky. Being a natural product/ organic the flash point is lower. So, during the summer, if you are driving around on a 90* day then the Wax is taking a beating.
Synthetic or Polymer sealants can last 4-6 or 6-12 months. Depends on the product.
I will say it again, wash and dry the car. If you can be in a garage then great, put your hand in a sandwich bag and run the bag over the dry painted surfaces. You can do this on the glass as well. If you feel bumps then a clay step should be done.
As for the machine, you exert more effort applying a wax by hand than removing it by hand. Let the machine do the work by applying a thin layer of product.
Removing the wax should be effortless ( by hand ).
7" backing plate or 6" BP with a 7" pad is pretty big. a 5" BP would be more beneficial.
but
at the end of the day, it's your car and it's your time, so it's your decision.
Even as a fair weather vehicle, there are air born contaminants that can bond to the paint. Ever see those fancy pictures or videos where the fallout remover ( Iron X ) is turning the car purple?
Well, for the most part those are iron / metal particles that have bonded to the paint. No rain you say ? Well, when you drive, your brakes are still engaged. The brake dust can contribute to the bonded contaminants. Other peoples cars, exhaust, brakes etc can contribute as well.
WAX lasts 2-3 months if you are lucky. Being a natural product/ organic the flash point is lower. So, during the summer, if you are driving around on a 90* day then the Wax is taking a beating.
Synthetic or Polymer sealants can last 4-6 or 6-12 months. Depends on the product.
I will say it again, wash and dry the car. If you can be in a garage then great, put your hand in a sandwich bag and run the bag over the dry painted surfaces. You can do this on the glass as well. If you feel bumps then a clay step should be done.
As for the machine, you exert more effort applying a wax by hand than removing it by hand. Let the machine do the work by applying a thin layer of product.
Removing the wax should be effortless ( by hand ).
7" backing plate or 6" BP with a 7" pad is pretty big. a 5" BP would be more beneficial.
Thanks for all of the info, I will just have to create a better plan of attack and get the the materials etc. So I may push this back to spring but I would rather do that and get everything right than push it. I have had the car for 5 years and I wanted to go in depth a little more so this info helps. I will try that bag trick next time I wash the car, which at this point will probably be the last time before going away for the winter, but we shall see.
Anyway, thanks again for your insight.
Thread Info
-
Created -
8Replies
-
364Views
-
Participants list
