🔧 BUILD PJ’s bad idea - notch edition

General Information

Figured I might as will document this train wreck. I bought this car a long time ago as an unfinished project and parted it out. Sold the caged shell to a buddy who needed a replacement. He ended up getting out of racing and it sat for a few years. Well he made me an offer I couldn’t refuse… so it’s back

Intentions are to fix some things I don’t like, finish some things and make it a nice complete roller. At that point I will see if I can sell it quick for a little profit, otherwise I have an LS and th400 to put in it for the spring


Some details:
- Certified 25.3 chromoly cage (good for 6.50 in the 1/4 at 3600#)
- fiberglass front clip, doors, trunk
- TeamZ front suspension
- Strange brakes



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PJx5x

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2005
1,480
1,872
Villa Park
Waiting on some parts so figured I’d put some time in on the trunk floor. Doing rivet strips between the tubular frame rails and then going to make some sheet metal panels to connect those to the stock floor

Took an old scalloped sheet from another project and mocked it up between the bars

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Cut to fit. Put it in my China brake and barely got it bent lol. It’s too thick and wide for this POS. It will be spot welded to the backside of the rear tail light panel

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PJx5x

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2005
1,480
1,872
Villa Park
Got the motor plates back from my buddy. His plasma cutter fucks up bolt holes lately so we did them blank. I transfer punched and drilled them out. I also undersized the water pump holes and I will just grind them out to match a gasket. Can’t complain too much for free stuff lol

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Got the motor all squared up. Used a laser pointer bore sight in a trans yoke adapter to line it all up with the rearend

Tacked the front plates in and then started making the tabs for the rear/mid plate

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Next up is the trans mount. The crossmember isn’t in the best location and I don’t wanna make a new one so it might end up being a little ghetto. Think this chassis was originally built for a powerglide
 

PJx5x

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2005
1,480
1,872
Villa Park
Trying to knock out one thing a night. Trans crossmember is built. I reused the chassis mounts and tube that was already there. The mounting plate ended up being farther away from the tube than I like but it should be fine. @%1;offered to add some gussets on the side for me, might have to take him up on that

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PJx5x

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2005
1,480
1,872
Villa Park
Got the scallop panels cut by my buddy so I started fitting them up. They fill the gap between the stock frame rails and tube frames. A flat piece of aluminum will then get riveted to them in the center square opening

Bent and fit up

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Punched the holes for the plug welds. Paper template and raw scallop there for comparison

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Welded in, along with a small filler panel in the corner

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PJx5x

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2005
1,480
1,872
Villa Park
Do those have rollers that let them move on the ground when Lifting like that? How much those buggers go for?
No, they lift straight up. I have upside down U tabs on the front tube and rearend housing. It lifts the car in a few seconds, engage the locks, and lower it down and inch onto the locks

A lot. Thankfully I bought them long time ago pre-covid. Think they’re 2500-3000 now depending on which pump option. This one is M18 powered that my buddy and I made
 

PJx5x

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2005
1,480
1,872
Villa Park
Finished the trunk. Added a normal scallop strip on the top with silicon bronze “brazing” or whatever it’s called. Just need to cut and bead roll a square of thin aluminum

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Re-did the interior tin working mounting with some of the scalloped strips as well. Old vs new:

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Decided to move the steering rack back 2” to help with the horrible turning radius this outlaw stiletto rack provides. This k member allows for removing the oil pan in the car. I’m assuming its designed to work with a big or small block. With this tiny LS moved kinda close to the firewall, there was a decent amount of room between the oil pan and tubing. So I cut that off and moved it back with some new tabs I made

Original angles:

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Cut and notched it on the car

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Plenty of belt clearance. Maybe.

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PJx5x

TCG Elite Member
Sep 29, 2005
1,480
1,872
Villa Park
Bought a $69 Amazon special China throttle body. Gonna try and make it decent:
-debur everything
-smooth the IAC port (allegedly they whistle)
-weld the blade screws so they don’t fall out
-weld a dual seal (fancy vband) flange on
-replace with oem tps and iac

-I would love to change the bearings to a sealed one but I don’t have a blind bearing puller

So I took it all apart and chucked it in the lathe to take off the lip and anodizing so the flange would fit

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Everything is super easy so far. We’ll see how it welds. If that goes ok I might offer to do this as a side hustle
 

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