Parts list for a TR6060 swap into a Marauder.

justbob

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I have received a few PM's regarding needed parts so I put together a list of what I used, yours could vary. Most parts from '07-'12 are the same, but the trans itself was beefed up in 2010-12.

Trans: 2012 GT500 TR6060 ( rated at 600 ft. lbs.) I paid $1,000 shipped for the trans, clutch components, shifter, cross member (not used), and he even threw in his brake master cylinder and booster. (Not used as well) seller did not disclose what year these are > http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=261203870731&index=13&nav=SEARCH&nid=36686792345

Trans mount: factory GT500

Shifter: I used a stock 2012, but will be upgrading soon enough to tighten up the shifts. *no matter the shifter it will require shortening about 2" on the (2) support legs and the linkage. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=330897656110&index=16&nav=SEARCH&nid=22920876062

Clutch kit: flywheel, both discs, pressure plate, and hydraulic TOB from a 2012 bolt right up. This is a McLeod kit minus TOB but is better and $500 cheaper.. http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500.html?utm_content=mcleod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500&utm_campaign=TFFitmentV1&utm_source=TheFind&utm_medium=Shopping&AMID=mcleod-rxt-clutch-0712gt500-2010-=2010&model=GT500

Clutch alignment tool: yes you will need it or have fun aligning a twin disc! You do NOT need a fancy aluminum one, the plastic one works perfect. I believe this is the one I bought. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-105313-f

Stainless line upgrade kit with adaptors: http://www.americanmuscle.com/mcleod-hydraulic-clutch-line-0513v8.html?utm_content=GSBasicFitmentV1&utm_campaign=42850982962-avshop&utm_source=Google-pla&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=&adpos=1o1&network=g&AMID=mcleod-hydraulic-clutch-line-0513v8-GSBasicFitmentV1&year=2005&adtype=pla

Reservoir: Shelby's share theirs with there brake reservoir and I image you could simply drill and tap a fitting onto yours. I simply added a Wilwood remote reservoir to simplify the process. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11098?seid=srese1&gclid=CPe_hMyo3rYCFeU-MgodjgoArA

Pedals: I had NO clue what I would need so I bought a fox body set for $65 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=221200440925&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=06545227216 and a '07 fully loaded hydraulic set with all switches included for $80 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=221215000661&index=7&nav=SEARCH&nid=02698839816 off various forums. I also probably have $40 in additional hardware I bought from ACE, but probably only used $3 worth...

Driveshaft: I opted for a 1350 spicer chromoly steel one rated for 1,200 HP. You can get a 1330 shaft and it will be perfectly fine for $55 less. Either way, you will now need a telescoping shaft as the Tremec has a fixed flange, same as the one on the rear diff. Length isn't much different, more so the design. I paid $385 plus tax and about $12 for the (4) extra bolts needed. Locally built at Midwest Driveshaft in St Charles IL and they do Internet sales. http://mdsdriveshaft.com/ Mine was ready two hours after calling it in. Absolutely AWESOME service and justbob approved.

Shifter boot and handle assembly: $29 ebay was the best source. *You will find that it has a hard plastic bottom that is square VS your rounded edge counsel. Simply trim down the four corners underneath the boot and she is a perfect fit that clips right on. i have decided that mounting it under the counsel looks way better and also plan to go back on this, maybe even finished off with one of Jim's (FBM) awesome Marauder bezels. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=380622175543&cmd=VIDESC

Shifter handle extension: only one I could find. *must be grinded down to fit into the factory handle as well as shortened as well as the shifter threads because you only need an additional 2" or so to achieve factory Marauder shifter handle height. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=190814226955&index=6&nav=SEARCH&nid=25886554355

Ford racing pilot bearing for all mod motors: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-7600-b

Flywheel bolts: recommend new. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6379-b

Pressure plate bolts: recommend new. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-6397-a46

Neutral safety pigtail: http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_pigtail-bwd_18470559-p?searchTerm=Pigtail

Reverse lock out pigtail: http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/t56-reverse-lockout-module-pigtail-wires

Speedo pigtail: I "think" this is the one required. http://www.americanmuscle.com/speed-sensor-connector-7904.html

Back up light pigtail: I purchased an upgraded sensor and pigtail after reading up on many failures regarding the OEM sensor. They were wrong on the fitment so in a bind to my Louisville I soldered the wires to the sensor for the time being.. This is the OEM pigtail needed. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=250900174559

Crossmember: 10' of 3/4" X 1 1/2" rectangular tubing, 2' of 1 1/4" OD thick wall tubing (I used 1" gas pipe without fail), 1' of 1 1/2" solid tubing with 1/2" hole drilled through the center (I used 1 1/2" gas pipe for this as well with hole saw cut offs welded to the ends. Not very proud, OCD will probably force me to swap out, but strong as an ox as is. Last pieces i used were approximately 1' X 6" 3/16" plate steel. Reason being for the 3/4" X 1 1/2" material is you only have 1" between the trans and the mount on the front side and my goal from the start was to never change the output shaft centerline. To accomplish this, the mount had to be tucked up as high as possible. There was no way that I could find to reuse the OEM cross member without serious modifications further weakening a HEAVY ugly unit. Mine is less than half the weight. There is probably 30 different designs you could build and all would work fine. I wanted simplistic, lite, be removable in under 30 secs, and accommodate virtually any exhaust system including a complete secondary system if you use cut outs.

Parking brake mount: obviously you will be using this now.. I reused the old by cutting some tabs off here and there, flipping it upside down and moving it to the frame rail cross member perch. It now uses one of the cross member bolt holes, and I drilled a second hole in the perch to use for the second hole. Works flawlessly.

As for the pedals I used the factory brake pedal assembly in its entirety adding a fox body pedal (bent to fit better) and half of the fox body swing shaft and bushings. I used the master cylinder, brake return spring (for use with the fox body pedal), neutral safety switch and its mount. Everything else was custom mounts. I neglected to install the clutch pedal cruise deactivation switch but will probably return to address this. Also, since day one of design concept I have not liked the master cylinder swing set up, nor how close it is to the firewall and will keep rethinking this set up. If you are willing to lose the adjustable pedals then there is a TON of more real-estate above the gas pedal to simply use all of the fox body swing shaft and do your mock up on the other side. I do not care for decontenting factory options as I see it as hack work or laziness, even though I haven't touched my adjustable pedal switch in nine years.. BUT with having the motor for that right smack in the way of the shaft, it would certainly be more ideal to abandon that so you could pass right through to the gas pedal side.

Trans tunnel: easier than it looks for anyone with a clue of grinding and welding. I believe my final cut dimensions were 3 1/2" X 14". I then folded about 1" up all the way around to create a simple lap joint for the new tunnel extension I built out of 18 gauge metal IIRC. Total height extension I believe was 3 1/4" at the back. The only massaging necessary was directly below the mounted component (pats?? Damned if I can remember) anyways, it was a minimal 1/4" or so. I then welded the entire inside and dynamatted it and I spot welded the bottom side of the lap and used seam sealer, finishing off with using truck roll on bed liner on the entire underside. WOW did it turn out sharp!

Reason for the tunnel extension was simple. This shifter is an under mount remote assembly. I did try at first to mount it above the tunnel like I saw someone on another site do with a panther. But as usuall, it was hack work and zero possibility of ever sealing up the two support arms and the linkage. Nice thing is you can easily replace the tunnel with one from a junked car if you ever feel like going back to auto, or simply keep the extension and go with a nice after market automatic shifter.

Other parts that are reusable include the starter and the engine plate (the starter indexing plate between trans and engine.

Be prepared to snap your ring and pinion depending on your mods. I snapped every tooth on my 4.30 pinion and 12 teeth off the ring on the street with 420's on a 1st gear pedal up launch. Not sure why it gave out as I had just rolled a 1,000 miles of torturous miles since completion of the project. I am now installing a Yukon 4.11 gear in hopes the increased pinion diameter will help some. I will be saving up for a Moser M9 9" unit and inspecting these Yukon gears often. Till then I will be a little less harsh on takeoffs and definitely no DR's till I have A. Seen no change or wear after a year or B. the M9 is installed. Just thought I would warn you of the newfound killer Torque loads... Hopefully all will hold up and I can go for that Whipple earlier than planned..!
Yukon 4.11: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/yga-24097

M9: http://www.moserengineering.com/housings/m9-housing-and-axle-package.html

That's it in a nutshell. Pics can be found here:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86055



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.
 

Bru

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I want to see more!

It looks like some links didn't carry over. The shortened http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=86055 was probably abbreviated on another forum so it isn't a complete path.

You'll have to quote the other forum's post and paste it here to carry over the complete paths.
 

Bru

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:bigthumb:

I took the text from MM.net and updated your first post. Should be good to go.

Awesome build!
 

justbob

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I want to see more!

It looks like some links didn't carry over. The shortened http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forum...ad.php?t=86055 was probably abbreviated on another forum so it isn't a complete path.

You'll have to quote the other forum's post and paste it here to carry over the complete paths.
I must fail? That link is what keeps coming up in Safari?
If its worth the trouble google Project totally terminated. Kind of busy right now but I'll look into it later.
 

Zack

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Well this is awesome.
It is awesome, and the typical Marauder owner will ask a million questions asking for 'parts lists' and 'how do I do it myself?'

...when in fact, all they have done is waste Bobs time posting all of the info.

Bob, no one will duplicate your incredible work.

You are sexy and good with wrenches. :pedobear:
 

justbob

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It is awesome, and the typical Marauder owner will ask a million questions asking for 'parts lists' and 'how do I do it myself?'

...when in fact, all they have done is waste Bobs time posting all of the info.

Bob, no one will duplicate your incredible work.

You are sexy and good with wrenches. :pedobear:
Can I like get a hug? :D

Thanks! And Smootches!!
 

vyper144

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I've always dreamed of buying a Marauder and doing the GT 5spd swap in it. Good luck man! Can't wait to see it finished!
 

Burt Ragio

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How many hours do you have in the project ? Any pics ? Sounds like your work is 2nd to none. Must be great able to keep it in the power band with a stick. What does it feel like driving the stick vs the auto ?
 

justbob

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How many hours do you have in the project ? Any pics ? Sounds like your work is 2nd to none. Must be great able to keep it in the power band with a stick. What does it feel like driving the stick vs the auto ?
I actually don't have a clue? In eight weeks I did this, my new short block, fuel system, an Eaton swap from hell on someone else's, daytime Plumbing, and snow removal.

I will say I spent more time researching and ordering! Strictly guessing here, 3-4 week nights??

The feel? Like I gained 150 HP at any speed. Downshift to 3rd at 70 snaps your skeleton. All the pieces work just like stock, as a whole, a little temperamental unless your focused as it can be very jerky. Just don't bother to start off at red light till you have at least a full car length of room. Once the pedal is starting its travel up, the car has already moved several feet and wants to GO.
 

MMBLUE

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Nice work Bob. Our cars should've came with this option. The fuel milage alone would've made the tree huggers happy :)

What are your 60' times with this set up ???
 

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