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NEW RIDE PANDA's - Ballin on a budget gas saver BMW.
- Thread starter PANDA
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I see a connection point in that picture. Why bother doing OEM lines when you just bend it close to OE as possible, cover it back up and send it because no one will ever see it. I can't imagine the rear subframe would have to come out to do that
Christian Brothers Automotive Barrington
I went over there this morning and told them I will be bringing it somewhere else. Watched the mechanic put back the few parts he removed, top off the brake fluid, and drove it to Rodgers Shop in Lake in the Hills. (TCG Sponsor)
They took off $1000 from the original estimate to be more "competitive" with other shops. But still charged me their $159 "diagnostic" fee. I am surprised they didn't wave it in an attempt to keep me as a customer since all they really did was remove one of the under-side panels for a better visual inspection and the cabin air filter box to get at the brake fluid reservoir. It was about 5 min of work and I was with the mechanic under the car when he did it.
I get it shops need to make money but after talking with 3 other shops and them telling me this sounds like a $500 job seems like an extreme case of price gauging or a shop that does not want to touch the car.
Either way I am done going to that shop. It sucks because the location is very convenient for me, the shop is clean, and they were honest. (not so much with pricing) But in the past year, it's been under new ownership and it seems like they are really price-gauging people and pushing unnecessary services.
I originally found out about CB because they offer a 3-year, 36K mile warranty (whichever comes last). GF puts 30-50K on her outback every year so a warranty is important to her. Most places only do 6 months or a year. Even the Subaru dealer with OEM parts. That car is really maintenance heavy with the amount she drives and some parts like axles she keeps replacing over and over again.
I originally found out about CB because they offer a 3-year, 36K mile warranty (whichever comes last). GF puts 30-50K on her outback every year so a warranty is important to her. Most places only do 6 months or a year. Even the Subaru dealer with OEM parts. That car is really maintenance heavy with the amount she drives and some parts like axles she keeps replacing over and over again.
Well, more high-mile BMW problems.
Had to go to grandmas house up in Spring Grove yesterday. Was cruising along with no issues and then stopped at a light. Heard what sounded like a knocking noise. Turned my music and AC off. FUCK motor is knocking. Weird, this car is driving absolutely flawlessly. No check engine light, oil pressure etc. I pulled over to check the oil and halfway expected a leak, or no oil altogether. No leaks and the oil level was perfect. 200K+ so was not surprised that the motor might have gone. But wasn't enticed to repair or sell this car broken for pennies. Since I didn't see anything wrong other than the motor knocking, I figured it was not my motor and kept driving since the car was operating perfectly. The knock was pretty loud at idle and slow speeds but at 40+ u could barely hear it. It also didn't change when you rev at idle. Visited Grandma and drove the 30 miles home. Got home and wanted to remove the AC belt to see if it was the AC compressor making noise. Either these BMW pulleys have covers on them or you need some special tool to move the belt tensioner. I ain't got time for that, belt looked shitty anyway so I cut it off. The motor sounds better than ever now. Fuck that was kinda a scare. I didn't really want to replace this thing or drive my truck.
I know the AC compressor isn't cheap either so I hope it's just like a serviceable bearing or something. The AC also worked as normal and blow cold so I am not sure I want to replace the whole unit. For now, no air conditioning until I can get it by
SRT41320
Had to go to grandmas house up in Spring Grove yesterday. Was cruising along with no issues and then stopped at a light. Heard what sounded like a knocking noise. Turned my music and AC off. FUCK motor is knocking. Weird, this car is driving absolutely flawlessly. No check engine light, oil pressure etc. I pulled over to check the oil and halfway expected a leak, or no oil altogether. No leaks and the oil level was perfect. 200K+ so was not surprised that the motor might have gone. But wasn't enticed to repair or sell this car broken for pennies. Since I didn't see anything wrong other than the motor knocking, I figured it was not my motor and kept driving since the car was operating perfectly. The knock was pretty loud at idle and slow speeds but at 40+ u could barely hear it. It also didn't change when you rev at idle. Visited Grandma and drove the 30 miles home. Got home and wanted to remove the AC belt to see if it was the AC compressor making noise. Either these BMW pulleys have covers on them or you need some special tool to move the belt tensioner. I ain't got time for that, belt looked shitty anyway so I cut it off. The motor sounds better than ever now. Fuck that was kinda a scare. I didn't really want to replace this thing or drive my truck.
I know the AC compressor isn't cheap either so I hope it's just like a serviceable bearing or something. The AC also worked as normal and blow cold so I am not sure I want to replace the whole unit. For now, no air conditioning until I can get it by
SRT41320
Was gonna say worse comes to worse on the knocking I'd price out a JY engine and just run thicker oil.
Glad to hear it was the AC compressor though.
$2800 for brake lines!? No wonder I'm a poor and driving a Chevy.
In the end $650 @ RAM
About the same as I paid to have them replaced on my Chevy...
I put a $60 junkyard special on mine when the AC acted up.
That being said, no ac clutch on these motors. The compressor runs 100% of the time. There is a solenoid valve that interrupts flow when system is not on.
Pulley rides on bearing, that’s what goes out and sounds like a rod knock. That bearing can be changed , so compressor can be saved. Parts are about $40, but the tool is like $60. So I went with junkyard option.
That being said, no ac clutch on these motors. The compressor runs 100% of the time. There is a solenoid valve that interrupts flow when system is not on.
Pulley rides on bearing, that’s what goes out and sounds like a rod knock. That bearing can be changed , so compressor can be saved. Parts are about $40, but the tool is like $60. So I went with junkyard option.
I'm getting 2-3 mpg more on the highway with the AC belt off. If I didn't give a shit about sweating my ass off in the car id probably leave it off.