ECS? And I'm interested to see how that's done. Makes sense why the instal time is so fast.I ordered the strut spanner and a better set of triple squares also. I found a way to do the install without having to undo the axle at the trans or spindle. You jack up the strut with a 2x4 and it allows it to slip out of the spindle.
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Deutsche Auto Parts. It's pretty ghetto but some people swear by the 2x4 method. Basically just compressing the spring and strut enough to get the last little bit of strut housing out of the spindle. I couldn't find definite answers to whether the suspension hardware is reusable or not, so I'm replacing all hardware as well. $36 in hardware for the front and back so not too bad.
Improvement to the 2x4 method of installing lowering spring. - GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum
Installed the VWR sport springs yesterday. The Internet suggested it would take 4-6 hours, but I took 8 with a lunch break and a lot of reading how-to's and torque specs. The tears are really straight forward, but the fronts are kind of a bitch. You're supposed to release the axle from the trans or knuckle to allow the control arm to drop enough to pull the strut out. I opted to go a quicker more ghetto route and used a 2x4 bolted to the strut to compress it and lift the strut body out of the knuckle. The passenger side probably took less than half the time as the drivers side once I figured out how everything worked. Overall not a bad job, but I'm debating whether I'd just unbolt the axle for the fronts if I did it again.
I'm really happy with the drop so far and it hasn't even had time to settle yet. I wanted the car lower without having to worry about rubbing or bottoming out so its just right. Car corners much more flat and turn in is more responsive.
I need to measure the rear wheel to fender spacing to see what size spacers I'm going to throw on, but it's pretty close already. Will probably be a 5 or 8mm.
I'm really happy with the drop so far and it hasn't even had time to settle yet. I wanted the car lower without having to worry about rubbing or bottoming out so its just right. Car corners much more flat and turn in is more responsive.
I need to measure the rear wheel to fender spacing to see what size spacers I'm going to throw on, but it's pretty close already. Will probably be a 5 or 8mm.
Did some shifter upgrades yesterday. The MK7 stock shifter is a lot tighter and shorter than the one on my MK6, but it still had a little vagueness with the plastic and rubber bushings. I swapped over my ECS short shifter I had on my MK6 and got some ECS aluminum and brass bushings for the cable ends. I also picked up a stainless clutch hose but that's a project for another day since I didn't feel like pulling the battery and battery tray last night to get to it at the firewall.
Shifter feels great now. Just the right amount of notchy and have it setup a little shorter than stock. Plan on installing the clutch hose and removing the delay valve from the bleeder block next weekend so the pedal actually does what your foot tells it to instead of lagging behind.
Shifter feels great now. Just the right amount of notchy and have it setup a little shorter than stock. Plan on installing the clutch hose and removing the delay valve from the bleeder block next weekend so the pedal actually does what your foot tells it to instead of lagging behind.
Haven’t posted in here in over a year. Still stock clutch and stock software this year but have done more supporting mods to get it ready for increased power next year. The stock clutch being the Achilles heel of this platform is a real bummer.
Replaced the 21.7mm stock rear sway bar with a 25mm ST suspensions bar.
Not sure about this mod. I had an even stiffer RSB on my MK6 and it felt great. Cruising to epic deli we took a hard right with some elevation and I feel like the rear suspension got unsettled a bit and felt a bit tail happy. Not sure if it’s the stiffer rear sway not playing nice with the lowering springs or if it’s an issue of preload that adjustable sway bar end links would alleviate. Probably going to a set of Bilstein coilovers in the future so I’m leaving it alone for now.
Didn’t do anything to the car until a few Black Friday deals got me this year. Picked up an Integrated Engineering open intake for $75 off. Based on testing I’ve seen recently it doesn’t increase IAT’s over the stock box and it basically lets you hear the turbo and diverter valve. The stock airbox is good up until you go big turbo so you’re really only buying an intake for looks or sound.
Had been eyeing these Black Forest Industries billet/poly mounts since I had my MK6.
The stock mounts are cast steel fluid filled rubber junk. with 11k miles at stock power levels both the engine and transmission mount had a lot of slop in them and you could feel the engine flopping when starting from a stop. VW was nice enough to bury the trans mount under the battery, ECU, and this wiring harness. Car feels much more solid now but the initial NVH is a bit much at low speed low RPM. They’re supposed to be livable at 50 miles and fully settled around 500 miles.
Just for [MENTION=410]Bruce Jibboo[/MENTION] I also swapped out the rubber shifter cable bracket bushings with aluminum. I’m officially out of shifter bushing upgrades to do.
Hopefully next year I’ll replace the clutch, down pipe and intercooler and go with either a stage 2 flash or a Cobb Accessport pro tune and call it a day.
Replaced the 21.7mm stock rear sway bar with a 25mm ST suspensions bar.
Not sure about this mod. I had an even stiffer RSB on my MK6 and it felt great. Cruising to epic deli we took a hard right with some elevation and I feel like the rear suspension got unsettled a bit and felt a bit tail happy. Not sure if it’s the stiffer rear sway not playing nice with the lowering springs or if it’s an issue of preload that adjustable sway bar end links would alleviate. Probably going to a set of Bilstein coilovers in the future so I’m leaving it alone for now.
Didn’t do anything to the car until a few Black Friday deals got me this year. Picked up an Integrated Engineering open intake for $75 off. Based on testing I’ve seen recently it doesn’t increase IAT’s over the stock box and it basically lets you hear the turbo and diverter valve. The stock airbox is good up until you go big turbo so you’re really only buying an intake for looks or sound.
Had been eyeing these Black Forest Industries billet/poly mounts since I had my MK6.
The stock mounts are cast steel fluid filled rubber junk. with 11k miles at stock power levels both the engine and transmission mount had a lot of slop in them and you could feel the engine flopping when starting from a stop. VW was nice enough to bury the trans mount under the battery, ECU, and this wiring harness. Car feels much more solid now but the initial NVH is a bit much at low speed low RPM. They’re supposed to be livable at 50 miles and fully settled around 500 miles.
Just for [MENTION=410]Bruce Jibboo[/MENTION] I also swapped out the rubber shifter cable bracket bushings with aluminum. I’m officially out of shifter bushing upgrades to do.
Hopefully next year I’ll replace the clutch, down pipe and intercooler and go with either a stage 2 flash or a Cobb Accessport pro tune and call it a day.
Hahahahaha that kid has gone through so much bullshit with that car. He always talks shit about my Cobra and I conveniently remind him of his lemon GTI.
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