Need advice selecting brake rotor/pad/fluid combo for my 5.0

[SleeperLS]

I might drag the car a few times, but i would upgrade in the future due to some serious speeds in mexico. When i am finally pushing close to 700whp, i wouldnt feel comfortable with a stock brake set up. For now it does seem to make sense to go with blanks and some upgraded pad. I hate brake noise and brake dust, so i am gettin a feel on what people have experience with.

Thanks again for the input everyone!

 

[sickmint79]

100 hp or 700 hp it's the frequency and size you drop speed that is going to really push you to needing an upgrade. i'd put it off and spend money on other goodies until you actually run into 'oh my shit these brakes are working quite like ass and barely at all' before you drop that money.

 

[Turk]

Even stock brakes will do just fine stopping at high speeds once or twice, it's when you have to do it multiple times on a road course when high priced aftermarket brakes shine. Even stock brakes are just fine for the road course in many cars now such as the M3 and Vette.

 

[SleeperLS]

This is a ways down the road, but i wont be hammering on it then not using the brake again for a while. It will be frequent back to back highway pulls or finding a fun twisty road to let loose on. That doesnt sound safe at all to push your brakes to the limit just to find out you cant stop well enough after running hard and then decide to upgrade your brakes after you are put in a unsafe situation That might cause an accident or soiled pants . Why would i not just upgrade them down the road for safety? I am not really asking approval on how far i can push my stock brakes anyways. When it comes to safety i will never compromise, i will be prepared. Why would that not be a good mentality. Seems like a smart one to me. I am not worried about spending money elsewhere at that point either. I would rather focus my money on building a well rounded car.

You are reading too much into every little detail i say as well. This isnt your car and i am not asking for your approval. I am simply stating what is going to happen.

 

[sickmint79]

i still don't think you'll need them and it will be more of a waste of money than any real contribution to safety. then again 90% of the people with big brakes never really use them anyway.

 

[SleeperLS]

Fair enough. I am planning on Having a better wheel/tire combo as well. Does wheel size play any role in needing bigger brakes. I wouldnt think so since i am only going to 19's and they are cf5's so they will be really light. Just wondering. And really man, plans may change. I might completely change my mind and figure money is better used elsewhere like you stated. Appreciate the input.

I guess i woukd like the potential to take it to a road track if i ever live near one.

 

[sickmint79]

i don't know what's closest to you but they are all over trackpedia and there are a fair amount around chicago's extended area that are easy enough to get on.

the only thing about wheels and bigger brakes is if you drive in the winter you can't do 16s and some 17s may not fit or may cut it quite close.

 

[SleeperLS]

Trackpedia you say...goin to check that out right meow. I think the smallest wheel i would run is the stock 18". When i do turbo the car, it will be strictly nice weather vehicle. Plan is to get a jeep or some kind of winter vehicle at the end of this summer. Then start to save up for a build.

 

[Intel]

If I were taking it to a track all I would do is switch to race pads the first time that are more resistant to heat but also are usually dusty/noisy when cold.

Why the move to 19's? 17-18 is where the cheaper sticky tires are at.

Don't really worry about all of the mods when it comes to going on the track for the first couple of time. Better to get out there earlier, learn your lines and build confidence with how fast you can go etc.

 

[Chester Copperpot]

Yeah. After having 19s and staying 19s, I will never own 19" wheels again. 20" tires are cheaper for fucks sake.

 

[SleeperLS]

Really i have only been lookin at 19's to make it look a bit better in the rear. 18's fit nice up front but they look kinda small in the rear. The cf5's i have been lookin at only come 19. But, i am sure i could contact the company and have a custom set of 18's made. Dunno how much additional cost would be involved and they are already like 400 a wheel.

 

[SleeperLS]

I have read pretty much everywhere 18" is a better wheel size for tires and performance. Maybe i just need a meatier tire in the back and fill up the wheel well more. When i get to that power level, i guess a meatier tire is going to be mandatory.

 

[Chester Copperpot]

19s look great on these cars but fuck finding good tires. 28" tall tires for 19s almost don't fucking exist. You have to go with Pirelli or equally as expensive Goodyear SuperCar GT tires.

Stick with 18s. You can also go with a squared 18x10 all around.

 

[SleeperLS]

How much more expensive are the tires? Is it a stupid amout or just a annoying amount?

 

[Intel]

200-300 bucks at least for a set.

 

[Ear Rak]

I really didnt read this thread but i will say this.

You don't need slotted rotors, but a good pad and some SS lines will make a difference. I dont road course my car but do a lot of runs in 'mexico' and my brakes start to fade after about 3 speed runs and my rotors have a permanent blue ring in them from heat...and thats after getting them cut 300 miles ago.

I havent done the switch yet but the few I know who do autocross/road course their mustangs say good pads/SS lines/Motul 600 fluid is all you need to make the factory brakes work decent.

The Brembo package on the gt500/2011+ is really for appearance. the factory gt brakes are basically 13" which is plenty.

 

[Chester Copperpot]

13.2" to be exact.

19s look great on these cars but fuck finding good tires. 28" tall tires for 19s almost don't fucking exist. You have to go with Pirelli or equally as expensive Goodyear SuperCar GT tires.

Stick with 18s. You can also go with a squared 18x10 all around.

Well I still stand by the "DRs for 19s don't exist" but thanks to someone here, he found these: http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreetRadialII

The same tire I had on my 17" drag setup DO come in a 28" tall, 19" tire. Too bad they're $373 a piece right now.

 

[SleeperLS]

damn, that is one pricey tire!

Thank you for the input Ear Rak, I will look into the motul fluid and the SS lines

 

[SleeperLS]

well shit, I was searching around for a good combo that I thought would work and came across this upgrade kit. Seems pretty legit. any thoughts on this stuff? Anyone used or heard of people using TPS stuff?

TPS Stage 2 Brake Upgrade Kit-2011-2012 Mustang GT (SLOTTED ROTORS) - Mustang 11-12 GT

 

[sickmint79]

based on what you are currently doing and what you are looking for if you want to replace all these parts i'd get

Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads
or
Hawk HPS Street brake pads

noting that TR seems to advise the former as quieter and with less dust.

i would get this fluid Motul RBF600 Racing Brake Fluid 1/2 Liter 8069HC : Amazon.com : Automotive
haven't used but TR also has this StopTech STR-600 High Performance Brake Fluid

note this stuff more readily absorbs water. it should be changed at least once a year. usually track guys are changing it more often.

and i'd just get these blanks. Centric Plain 120 Series Rotors

 

[ldyzluvdis06]

that's a lot of money to stop such a slow car! :hsughcool:

 

[SleeperLS]

based on what you are currently doing and what you are looking for if you want to replace all these parts i'd get

Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads
or
Hawk HPS Street brake pads

noting that TR seems to advise the former as quieter and with less dust.

i would get this fluid Motul RBF600 Racing Brake Fluid 1/2 Liter 8069HC : Amazon.com : Automotive
haven't used but TR also has this StopTech STR-600 High Performance Brake Fluid

note this stuff more readily absorbs water. it should be changed at least once a year. usually track guys are changing it more often.

and i'd just get these blanks. Centric Plain 120 Series Rotors

Thanks for the input sickmint. Blanks and ceramics were my first thought and I agree they seem like a better idea for the driving I do (might try HPS though). I usually get carried away with modding my car. I will start to look at the basic option and then just go full on ridiculous from there. Bad habit.

Either way, I am going to go with something different than the super blue I have. I read it can stain the brake reservoir and is a bit more race oriented than I was thinking. A few guys even said tech inspection gave them crap because it looks dark when in the reservoir. The motul stuff seems to be really well liked and probably the best option like you stated. I was slightly leaning toward the valvoline synthetic brake fluid because I wouldn't have to mess with it every year, but it really just seems like a stock replacement and bleeding brakes doesn't seem that bad at all with the right tools.

I was thinking the HPS pads, but I have read several reviews that say they dust like crazy. Good news is that pads are easy to change. If I end up not liking the HPS, then I can just get some ceramics pads and throw em on and see if there is that much of a braking difference. I need to find the armorall wheel protectant you posted as well. I had really good luck with the Akebono ceramics with blanks on my monte, but I am up for trying a different pad.

 

[sickmint79]

i just swapped to summer wheels and put some of the armor all stuff on. hopefully it does its magic!

the rbf600 is more race than the blue, in either case both should be changed yearly.

 

[SleeperLS]

is there any performance street brake fluid that wouldn't be so race oriented? Something that is a bit better than stock but not something I would have to worry about changing every 6 months to a year. The Brembo EVO 500 stuff in the same boat?

 

[sickmint79]

just use stock and don't worry about that at all then. the high temp stuff is really just for big cookin'