My 5/8" Cooling Mod

Zack

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How does the hose fit around the pex fittings? I tried it with 1/2" inch hose and it was too loose.
 

musclemerc

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This is a 5/8" cooling mod, not 1/2" Zack.

Its a nice tight fit on all connectors
 

musclemerc

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Is this mod Trilogy friendly?
Yes, it is :D :D :D :D :D

What happened to the picture you posted of your cooling mod Zack?

You need a passenger side fitting like this to work with an Eaton Lower Manifold:
Not true my kit fits both Trilogys and Eatons

This is a kit I made for a Trilogy owner and there was NO issues at all with the fit.
This is all 5/8" I.D. connections not 1/2" I.D. connections like every other cooling mod on the market. My cooling mod will allow more coolant to enter/exit the rear cylinders






 
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musclemerc

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I forgot to add in the most important shot

PS rear


DS rear
 

taemian

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Kit was installed during my Trilogy forged rebuild, photo'd and sent to MuscleMerc himself for this thread. This guy knows his stuff, and helped HUGELY during the entire rebuild process.:biggthump
 

Zack

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Kit was installed during my Trilogy forged rebuild, photo'd and sent to MuscleMerc himself for this thread. This guy knows his stuff, and helped HUGELY during the entire rebuild process.:biggthump
Dont forget to mention how much money he saved you for a BETTER product. :hail:
 

massacre

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I've seen 2 other wrenches make home made cooling mods (Blown3.8/Zack). Finally its my turn to give it a shot.
Awesome writeup, and awesome products as usual. Your stuff is always very well thought out and well-designed with attention to detail and great quality.
 

taemian

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Dont forget to mention how much money he saved you for a BETTER product. :hail:
That's bang on. Once I get my fuel issues sorted out for a decent tune, I'll start logging temps. Travis seemed to drop off the map for a bit, and then when my work got busy, so did I. Hope to see him active around here, I think he was banned from both MM boards? I was close at MM as well because I shared my experiences honestly. Go figure.
 

musclemerc

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Ian, I'm here and yes I did get banned from BOTH Marauder boards. It seems I've been a bad boy!

Calling DR out on MM.net. Then for calling bullshit on Mike @ MCM. It seems at one site you get the boot for pissing on DR then the other you dare not question Trilogy.

I haven't dropped off, just busy with my real job. The Marauder stuff is now secondary.
 

Zack

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I just bought some PEX fittings today Travis.
I really dont know why I was wasting my money with the other stuff. LOL
 

musclemerc

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The T fitting on the DS is PEX the one for the PS is a threaded close quater barbed fitting. Its the only one that will clear the SC'ed lower
 

Zack

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The T fitting on the DS is PEX the one for the PS is a threaded close quater barbed fitting. Its the only one that will clear the SC'ed lower
Did you try the PEX elbow? I just made one and it looks like it will clear. :dunno:
 

massacre

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My homemade cooling mod is different than you guys'.
I don't have a MM so the whole cooling system is different. I don't need to come out of both heads, just the driver's side. Heater core exits pass head like a Cobra.
 

guspech750

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My homemade cooling mod is different than you guys'.
I don't have a MM so the whole cooling system is different. I don't need to come out of both heads, just the driver's side. Heater core exits pass head like a Cobra.
Pics? Or it didnt happen.
 

Siege

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I have been researching the Marauder cooling system while I wait for my MuscleMerc Cooling Mod to arrive and had a question for the experts here.

Obviously the primary difference between the Marauder and Mustang cooling system is that the heater core inlet comes from the cross-over tube on the Marauder vs. a rear passenger-side fitting on the Mustang.

The first picture shows the cooling mod T-eed into the outlet of the heater core. With the additional flow of coolant leaving both cylinder heads couldn't this extra flow introduced into the return inhibit flow through the heater core?

It seems like a better flow path would be to delete the heater core feed from the cross-over tube and instead run the outlet line from the cylinder head cooling mod to the inlet of the heater core.

This way replicates the factory coolant flow design of the Mustang while eliminating the long heater hose run from the COT to the heater core without having a possible impact on flow through the heater circuit.

IB :gives:
 

Zack

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I have been researching the Marauder cooling system while I wait for my MuscleMerc Cooling Mod to arrive and had a question for the experts here.

Obviously the primary difference between the Marauder and Mustang cooling system is that the heater core inlet comes from the cross-over tube on the Marauder vs. a rear passenger-side fitting on the Mustang.

The first picture shows the cooling mod T-eed into the outlet of the heater core. With the additional flow of coolant leaving both cylinder heads couldn't this extra flow introduced into the return inhibit flow through the heater core?

It seems like a better flow path would be to delete the heater core feed from the cross-over tube and instead run the outlet line from the cylinder head cooling mod to the inlet of the heater core.

This way replicates the factory coolant flow design of the Mustang while eliminating the long heater hose run from the COT to the heater core without having a possible impact on flow through the heater circuit.

IB :gives:
Are your ears smoking? Seriously you are thinking way too hard....the heater gets as hot as it should with the cooling mod plumbed as-pictured.
 

Siege

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Are your ears smoking? Seriously you are thinking way too hard....the heater gets as hot as it should with the cooling mod plumbed as-pictured.
Thanks for the response!

Of course it works as Travis assembled it. I just think the system could be simplified and possibly have its performance improved via the modification I described.

Can you see any reason why feeding the heater core from the heads and capping off the COT nipple wouldn't work?
 

musclemerc

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I can appreciate your thought on the Mustang~VS~Marauder coolant flow but in my opinion it wont make any diffrence. The added flow with the cooling mod is NOT going to impede the flow into the heater core.

The whole purpose of any cooling mod is to improve flow from the rear cylinder heads back to the coolant system.

However if you want to feed the cooling mod from the COT and remove a rear expansion plug to feed the heater core you can but in the end its the same thing. Just a diffrent path, and you will need to remove the transmission to knock out the rear expansion plug.
 

Siege

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However if you want to feed the cooling mod from the COT and remove a rear expansion plug to feed the heater core you can but in the end its the same thing. Just a diffrent path, and you will need to remove the transmission to knock out the rear expansion plug.
Thanks for chiming in Travis. Actually the only thing I wanted to do with the COT was cap the stock outlet for the heater core. The heater core would then be fed by your cooling mod instead of it being plumbed into the heater core outlet.

It seems redundant to pipe coolant directly from the COT to the heater core when the cooling mod adds a water outlet in the rear of the engine.
 

Zack

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Thanks for chiming in Travis. Actually the only thing I wanted to do with the COT was cap the stock outlet for the heater core. The heater core would then be fed by your cooling mod instead of it being plumbed into the heater core outlet.

It seems redundant to pipe coolant directly from the COT to the heater core when the cooling mod adds a water outlet in the rear of the engine.
LOL.

I dont think you know how the cooling system works.

Id be happy to explain it to you if you dont figure it out first. :drums:
 

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