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gotta get to a pc to post details but I did the deed. Not perfect but way more solid than the Lemans.
🔧 BUILD My 1982 amc eagle
- Thread starter Mr_Roboto
- Start date
Looking at this I need a thicker pinion shim? I didn't pull the yoke just the carrier backlash is .006.
For some reason either things subsided with mileage or the factory setup job was shit far as I am interpreting this.
For some reason either things subsided with mileage or the factory setup job was shit far as I am interpreting this.
This all showed up today. 8an except the hose fittings which are accidentally 10an. I ordered as a set so I didn't fuck this one up.
The reg is a 13204 I have had for a long time. The goal is to make a fuel system that will support as much power as I want with nothing more than tossing in a pump, be it efi or carb. The bulkhead fittings will terminate at or near the engine so I can attach what I want to. The 90 bulkhead and the barb fitting are for the tank which will have an Aeromotive 340 from the Fastro in it.
Also, forgot I bought a prop valve too.
The reg is a 13204 I have had for a long time. The goal is to make a fuel system that will support as much power as I want with nothing more than tossing in a pump, be it efi or carb. The bulkhead fittings will terminate at or near the engine so I can attach what I want to. The 90 bulkhead and the barb fitting are for the tank which will have an Aeromotive 340 from the Fastro in it.
Also, forgot I bought a prop valve too.
Had my drill show up during lunch. I fucked up ordering one and got this girthy thing. Having no drill for it and needing 1/16 more hole diameter or so I used vise grips to finish the hole.
Then I tapped the hole for 3/4 npt. Slightly crooked of course but it will work.
Lastly I cut away a bunch of excess with a death wheel. I need a bit of finishing work but runable as is.
Then I tapped the hole for 3/4 npt. Slightly crooked of course but it will work.
Lastly I cut away a bunch of excess with a death wheel. I need a bit of finishing work but runable as is.
A big turnaround compared to the last couple sessions and some new goodies to boot.
Put some art and acetone on the pinion nut. I took one look at it and said it will wait.
After an hour of looking I found my line lock where I had put it in the eagle so I knew where it was. I fabbed up a bracket, I need to make a bending jig for the 1/8 inch.
This also showed up. These are under $20 via eBay so I will probably mic it to validate accuracy.
Also got steel brake line. Perfect first time, I guess the other stuff is vac line now. I replaced the driver's side line as well.
I also got the pinion bearing removal tool. How much shim do I add to start with.
Put some art and acetone on the pinion nut. I took one look at it and said it will wait.
After an hour of looking I found my line lock where I had put it in the eagle so I knew where it was. I fabbed up a bracket, I need to make a bending jig for the 1/8 inch.
This also showed up. These are under $20 via eBay so I will probably mic it to validate accuracy.
Also got steel brake line. Perfect first time, I guess the other stuff is vac line now. I replaced the driver's side line as well.
I also got the pinion bearing removal tool. How much shim do I add to start with.
Figured out I can't find my 1-1/8 socket for the pinion nut. Need to dig one up.
Also, did most of the brake line work and got my bracket done. I mounted the prop valve here as well as the line lock. If I ever do a V8 almost all of this will have to go. Probably hydroboost time.
I also need to do pads and hose on the other side. I suspect I will be doing the hard line there too with my luck.
Did some work on the head too trying to scout things out. First thing was I did a mic check on the valve mic. Seemed accurate enough based on my vintage AF Sears Micrometers. Wish I at least had em in tenths but w/e.
The mic wouldn't work with the spring locators the way they were. I had to cut these down anyways as the valve guides were way too tall and the keepers may have given me .5 lift worth of clearance on a good day.
The intake was about what I expected. Spec is 1.65, I'm thinking I probably needed to clean some crap off the seats from porting.
The exhaust on the other hand was a bit of a wtf. I'm wondering how much recession these seats have. I did 2 cylinders. Among my concerns is that the Jeep Valve train is 100% non adjustable so I'm at the mercy of the lifters to soak that lift up unless I get push rods.
Speaking of pushrods, I am wondering if the length on the intake is wrong. There's a lot more wear on the intake side than the exhaust, and it seems to be in the direction that the force of the rockers would act on the valves e.g. left to right if the head were in the engine. I think I'll at least buy a check pushrod at some point.
Also, did most of the brake line work and got my bracket done. I mounted the prop valve here as well as the line lock. If I ever do a V8 almost all of this will have to go. Probably hydroboost time.
I also need to do pads and hose on the other side. I suspect I will be doing the hard line there too with my luck.
Did some work on the head too trying to scout things out. First thing was I did a mic check on the valve mic. Seemed accurate enough based on my vintage AF Sears Micrometers. Wish I at least had em in tenths but w/e.
The mic wouldn't work with the spring locators the way they were. I had to cut these down anyways as the valve guides were way too tall and the keepers may have given me .5 lift worth of clearance on a good day.
The intake was about what I expected. Spec is 1.65, I'm thinking I probably needed to clean some crap off the seats from porting.
The exhaust on the other hand was a bit of a wtf. I'm wondering how much recession these seats have. I did 2 cylinders. Among my concerns is that the Jeep Valve train is 100% non adjustable so I'm at the mercy of the lifters to soak that lift up unless I get push rods.
Speaking of pushrods, I am wondering if the length on the intake is wrong. There's a lot more wear on the intake side than the exhaust, and it seems to be in the direction that the force of the rockers would act on the valves e.g. left to right if the head were in the engine. I think I'll at least buy a check pushrod at some point.
Still working on the axle against my better judgment. Should have fucking sent it. Tried to use a bar and pipe since I don't have the fancy lion impacts some of you guys do. Fucker if this happened.
Said hell with it and went to brute force. I need a 3/4 bar at some point. Or a Milwaukee.
I just want this under the car and out of my way.
Said hell with it and went to brute force. I need a 3/4 bar at some point. Or a Milwaukee.
I just want this under the car and out of my way.
A few parts showed up today need to make a setup bearing or two. Are the outers typically tight? This one is.
Also, I put a WTB on The AMC Forum for a cam and got 2 bites. One hasn't replied back with what cam they have, the other is the Lunati V262H12. It's 220/[email protected], .507/.527 lift, 110 LSA Think for what I'm doing that's a pretty hot darn cam but it'd work well enough and I think it would be a bit more towards the edge of the cam I'd want to run in my combo. Here's an idle video from a guy running it on a Renix box that's got a MAP alteration device on it. I'd have a MS2 I bet I could settle the idle down a lot honestly and an Edelbrock for start up/break in. 200 for cam and lifters though, I think it's a good bet. After that I'd need retainers and want keepers. I'll also need valve spring shims.
First off, this. Wtf. Never seen something like that before. No wonder it was a bastard to remove.
Second, made some stuff.
Reclaimed my used exhaust flange
And made some setup bearings. Gotta get the bearings set up. Butchered the preload so need to fix that. The fucking nut being 1-1/4 is annoying because the socket doesn't fit the yoke well.
Lastly the guys offering cams for sale have gone silent. Really wish someone would get back to me.
Second, made some stuff.
Reclaimed my used exhaust flange
And made some setup bearings. Gotta get the bearings set up. Butchered the preload so need to fix that. The fucking nut being 1-1/4 is annoying because the socket doesn't fit the yoke well.
Lastly the guys offering cams for sale have gone silent. Really wish someone would get back to me.
Was messing around with the Diff on Friday, found it to be an epic pain in the dick. As it turns out there's a specialty tool that's kind of like a giant bolt you need to really do the adjustment correctly. Hoping it makes the job a lot the fuck easier.
Besides this, I ordered a bunch of mandrel bends. I don't want to have to mod the exhaust for a NA setup then mod it again for the turbo setup. so I'm probably going to run it like I'm doing a turbo setup. I'll still need some straight 2.25 tubing so I'll have to go grab that. Easily found around here though.
I also got my cam. It's a Comp XE 4X4, 262/270 adv, 218/[email protected], .493/.512 lift and a 111 LSA. Not ideal in my mind but it should get me where I want to go. If anything I'd say it's probably a bit big really. I took a bit of compression out of the chambers doing valve unshrouding, hopefully it's not too detrimental to the situation.
What I didn't order was a measuring push rod. I absolutely need one for this, the valve train isn't adjustable, I have a weird feeling it's been fucked with on this 4.0 head and I don't trust it honestly. I may need 2 different lengths of push rod even, one for the intake the other for the exhaust. The valve lengths seem different and the spring installed height is also different. I'm thinking that I'll probably need .150 or so of shims to get the intake and exhaust to match up spring pressure wise. I also need retainers and keepers for the new stuff still too.
Besides this, I ordered a bunch of mandrel bends. I don't want to have to mod the exhaust for a NA setup then mod it again for the turbo setup. so I'm probably going to run it like I'm doing a turbo setup. I'll still need some straight 2.25 tubing so I'll have to go grab that. Easily found around here though.
I also got my cam. It's a Comp XE 4X4, 262/270 adv, 218/[email protected], .493/.512 lift and a 111 LSA. Not ideal in my mind but it should get me where I want to go. If anything I'd say it's probably a bit big really. I took a bit of compression out of the chambers doing valve unshrouding, hopefully it's not too detrimental to the situation.
What I didn't order was a measuring push rod. I absolutely need one for this, the valve train isn't adjustable, I have a weird feeling it's been fucked with on this 4.0 head and I don't trust it honestly. I may need 2 different lengths of push rod even, one for the intake the other for the exhaust. The valve lengths seem different and the spring installed height is also different. I'm thinking that I'll probably need .150 or so of shims to get the intake and exhaust to match up spring pressure wise. I also need retainers and keepers for the new stuff still too.
Yeah, there's a vid or two out there. From what I understand the heads are basically owned by the racing series, not sure if it's true. They sure sound insane though and would think it awesome if they were out there. I mean if you got it to 8Kish you'd be talking probably about 100HP/L or 400+hp. I bet she'd be a prissy gal with bad manners though.
Finally got a hint of time and motivation. Routed the fuel lines these 1/4 riv nuts are awesome but difficult to install. I need the bigger tool. I am going to add a few more, but this is the basic routing. I also need to convert the cell fill to efi and add my in tank pump. The inner fender fits nicely even with the fuel lines in it. I hope I have enough hose honestly, I am going to run close.
Also bled the front brakes. Not sure if everything is sealed up, kind of expecting the fronts to be docked up still.
Also bled the front brakes. Not sure if everything is sealed up, kind of expecting the fronts to be docked up still.
Bulkhead fittings are the best.
I just bought a big rivnut tool with the dual handles, it works awesome for big stuff. I just put in some 5/16 ones and worked flawless and easy.
I just bought a big rivnut tool with the dual handles, it works awesome for big stuff. I just put in some 5/16 ones and worked flawless and easy.
Actually wrenched on this a bit today! Did some more fuel line work, dropped the cell and added an in tank pump. This was pretty easy. So far I still like the fuel cell decision.
I need some hose for the in tank stuff but went to AutoZone for a Napa part. Went about as well as you would have thought so I am hitting Napa tomorrow.
I need some hose for the in tank stuff but went to AutoZone for a Napa part. Went about as well as you would have thought so I am hitting Napa tomorrow.
Can't believe it's been about 2 months. Job and other shit has been crazy, not to mention heat and other hobbies have dulled my desire to work on this. Probably will come back about winter with my luck. 
No pics, but I got the cell in, wiring ran and a relay set up for powering it on/off. Having the cell in is a huge relief, I had forgotten how I'd positioned the tank in the space I had so I was thinking I'd have to cut and weld metal to clearance for the feed line and wiring.
What's left is to pull the inner fender out again, tighten the fittings there, make a bracket for the regulator, make lines to and from the regulator then wire the FP relay up. After that I can probably fire this thing up again. I had it running on the mechanical FP, but I was running into issues with startup. I'm hoping that going to this electric setup will alleviate that problem. I'd also like to find a 390 Holley main body to do a blow through turbo setup with, but I'm kind of skeptical of that turning up honestly.
No pics, but I got the cell in, wiring ran and a relay set up for powering it on/off. Having the cell in is a huge relief, I had forgotten how I'd positioned the tank in the space I had so I was thinking I'd have to cut and weld metal to clearance for the feed line and wiring.
What's left is to pull the inner fender out again, tighten the fittings there, make a bracket for the regulator, make lines to and from the regulator then wire the FP relay up. After that I can probably fire this thing up again. I had it running on the mechanical FP, but I was running into issues with startup. I'm hoping that going to this electric setup will alleviate that problem. I'd also like to find a 390 Holley main body to do a blow through turbo setup with, but I'm kind of skeptical of that turning up honestly.
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