General Information
gotta get to a pc to post details but I did the deed. Not perfect but way more solid than the Lemans.
🔧 BUILD My 1982 amc eagle
- Thread starter Mr_Roboto
- Start date
Well, may not be as crazy as I thought!
First off with the standard fill cap. Anyone want one cheap?
I need some mock up spacers for above the tank but it is almost exactly what I thought it would be. Maybe better even. There likely needs some ball peen action here but I think EXTREMELY minimal. I'll know for sure after the spacers are in.
The straps admittedly will need some bending to work with this. The tank is a bit more bulbous and deep than the cell is. The first bend will be here.
The second will be at the front. This isn't a big deal, the stock bolts are in place (I think they were for another application they've got about 2" spacers in them.) I found a set of Mopar ones on Ebay that seem universal and are shorter that I think will do what I need to. Worse comes to worse I'll take the straps and cut/bend/drill them so they work. Nothing exotic there. I think I'm going to try and dig up a chunk of a mud flap or tire tube to use for rubber strips to line eerything. Worse comes to worse I may go get a few feet of heater hose for the straps and split it.
First off with the standard fill cap. Anyone want one cheap?
I need some mock up spacers for above the tank but it is almost exactly what I thought it would be. Maybe better even. There likely needs some ball peen action here but I think EXTREMELY minimal. I'll know for sure after the spacers are in.
The straps admittedly will need some bending to work with this. The tank is a bit more bulbous and deep than the cell is. The first bend will be here.
The second will be at the front. This isn't a big deal, the stock bolts are in place (I think they were for another application they've got about 2" spacers in them.) I found a set of Mopar ones on Ebay that seem universal and are shorter that I think will do what I need to. Worse comes to worse I'll take the straps and cut/bend/drill them so they work. Nothing exotic there. I think I'm going to try and dig up a chunk of a mud flap or tire tube to use for rubber strips to line eerything. Worse comes to worse I may go get a few feet of heater hose for the straps and split it.
Mixed progress to report. I have been all over the place but have been moving.
First cut of the shock mounts. Still too tall.
The second go was much better.
This was how I did it. First a lot of slitting, cutting the bars out then grinding the remainder.
I removed the rest of the perches too.
Ready for stripping down.
I did a shitton of wire brushing, then wiped down with thinner.
First cut of the shock mounts. Still too tall.
The second go was much better.
This was how I did it. First a lot of slitting, cutting the bars out then grinding the remainder.
I removed the rest of the perches too.
Ready for stripping down.
I did a shitton of wire brushing, then wiped down with thinner.
Painted, as much as it is likely to be. I will strip and touch up where the shock mounts are after welding them on.
29 splines, a bigger ring gear and perhaps most importantly 3.54 gears not 2.34 gears.
The intercooler mount is coming along. This is still too tall, I am going to need to lower it to clear the hood latch.
Much better clearance here too. I used a carbide Burr on my air die grinder.
I did some shitty welding on the fill, warped it, hammered on it, used my press on it and hopefully it is flat enough.
I still need to figure out what AN fittings to order. No way this cell is 8an on all fittings like everyone says. I could easily feed a Weldon or Magna fuel from the bungs here.
I have more than a couple 255lph pumps. I have an Automotive 340 and would feel no guilt about getting a Hellcat Pump to toss in if needed. It would be easy to add at least 2 if not 3 pumps and they are in the sump area.....
Got it figured out and fittings ordered to make stuff happen. It's a -10 and -12 at the sump, guess I'm GTG if I ever get a Magnafuel or something. So I plunked some bucks down and got:
-A sender since it fits. It was $40 to buy a sender and $80 to buy a tank with a sender. Easy choice
-The fittings to hook everything up. They make a -10 to 5/16 barb laughably
-The fittings for the vent line. I'm going to probably go and get a roll of 3/8 something to use for a loop for the vent
-The filler neck rubber hose
Unrelated:
-A set of 7/16 to 1/2 head stud spacer washers for my 4.0L head swap.
I was thinking about getting a HG set but will probably put that off. If the 4.0 head didn't need guides in it I'd probably just slap it on. The intakes seem fine but the exhaust ports seem really loose. Was going to get a ball micrometer to test but probably isn't worth the expense since the clearances are supposed to be the same. I should just take the head somewhere and let them deal with it. I also need retainers which is something I forgot about.
Also, since I didn't attach them and I may as well not make a text only post here's the fab work I did to make the fill and the frame that will go above the cell. The rotary broach was a bit grabby but really worked well overall. Speedway has a universal one for about $35 that I wish I'd have seen before I made this one, but it worked out well.
The cell is in! I am overall very happy with the fitment although I do need some additional minor work like the fill neck.
I fitted the fill hose on the elbow and marked it for trimming.
I then cut the stock plate. This is so I can slide it out when I want to pull the tank and the fill assembly just drops out.
To do is still to secure the fill. No big deal though. I need to trim a bit too.
Crude but it should work. The goal was minimum hose and to have a pre filter.
I put a couple gallons in it. I want to see how it does without a fill vent honestly at a real gas pump. That part makes me a hair nervous. My hope is at worse I just have to fill slow.
This should do until the Aeromotive 340 and braided line go in. I have a nice regulator for a carb even if the EFI doesn't hit right away.
I also like this should be super easy to drain come winter.
I fitted the fill hose on the elbow and marked it for trimming.
I then cut the stock plate. This is so I can slide it out when I want to pull the tank and the fill assembly just drops out.
To do is still to secure the fill. No big deal though. I need to trim a bit too.
Crude but it should work. The goal was minimum hose and to have a pre filter.
I put a couple gallons in it. I want to see how it does without a fill vent honestly at a real gas pump. That part makes me a hair nervous. My hope is at worse I just have to fill slow.
This should do until the Aeromotive 340 and braided line go in. I have a nice regulator for a carb even if the EFI doesn't hit right away.
I also like this should be super easy to drain come winter.
Today's prize from LKQ. These are from a 2003 liberty. I have a full set of calipers, rotors, pads and hoses on the way too. I am going to try and throw in my line lock and prop valve to put in so I only bleed them once. The fluid looks like shit and the front hoses are horrid looking.
Should be way better than rebuilding 9x2 drums and only a minor bit more.
I forgot ebrake cables and need to figure out that.
Should be way better than rebuilding 9x2 drums and only a minor bit more.
I forgot ebrake cables and need to figure out that.
Did some minor things today.
Added brakes to my 8.25. the bolts are too short and I want to do seals anyways. Sigh, oh well.
Ebrake cables are still TBD.
Cut the core support a bit for charge pipes.
Not pretty but it may work. The intercooler being 2.75 in/out sucks tbh.
The lower bracket is in and welded. On to the tops.
I need a 2.75 to 3 inch 90 now that has longer legs.
Added brakes to my 8.25. the bolts are too short and I want to do seals anyways. Sigh, oh well.
Ebrake cables are still TBD.
Cut the core support a bit for charge pipes.
Not pretty but it may work. The intercooler being 2.75 in/out sucks tbh.
The lower bracket is in and welded. On to the tops.
I need a 2.75 to 3 inch 90 now that has longer legs.
I took it around the cul de sac yesteday. Probably the thirdish time. A few impressions so far;
-The steering is pretty damn good. Light and nimble
-The car doesn't seem top heavy. Going to have to play with it more. Overall the wagon would be more utilitarian but with gears and a stock 4.0L HO this would have been pretty darn fun in the day.
-The back is light in 2WD mode. Haven't put it into 4WD and that will be a bit, the vacuum lines for the tcase and axle disconnect need a lot of work.
-The engine seems to be pretty strong, you can tell it's lugging though and really needs more gear. 2.34s aren't great for performance. Bet she does okay on the highway.
-I haven't gotten it into second yet (not fast enough) but first and reverse are thankfully solid.
-The shifter sucks. Plain and simple. I have a B&M Starshifter I'm thinking of trying to integrate into the console.
-Bit loud, but not horrid. If I had the idle lower it'd be a lot better honestly.
-I want to get the tach lighting wired in to the gauge lighting which is a nice improvement.
-There's a tap from the passenger side that's rythmic as it goes. It may well be a wheel weight hitting the front control arm. It could also be the CV shaft pu there with a torn boot.
I spent about 15-20 minutes pulling the door card off to put the rod back on the handle. At that point I found out the lever for the pot metal is broken. Guess I'm going to be combing ebay for another one. If I were baller I'd get repops and look nice. Then again at those prices sketchy it is.
Here's what I'm working on. I need to get in there, tape some stuff up now (unlike the PO) and then shoot some black up top so it covers up the original paint.
Straight on. Not so bad is it?
You can see the contrast now. Lot worse when it's seen that way.
Much, much better. Not perfect but at least if I'm about to get t-boned at a light I'll know it now.
-The steering is pretty damn good. Light and nimble
-The car doesn't seem top heavy. Going to have to play with it more. Overall the wagon would be more utilitarian but with gears and a stock 4.0L HO this would have been pretty darn fun in the day.
-The back is light in 2WD mode. Haven't put it into 4WD and that will be a bit, the vacuum lines for the tcase and axle disconnect need a lot of work.
-The engine seems to be pretty strong, you can tell it's lugging though and really needs more gear. 2.34s aren't great for performance. Bet she does okay on the highway.
-I haven't gotten it into second yet (not fast enough) but first and reverse are thankfully solid.
-The shifter sucks. Plain and simple. I have a B&M Starshifter I'm thinking of trying to integrate into the console.
-Bit loud, but not horrid. If I had the idle lower it'd be a lot better honestly.
-I want to get the tach lighting wired in to the gauge lighting which is a nice improvement.
-There's a tap from the passenger side that's rythmic as it goes. It may well be a wheel weight hitting the front control arm. It could also be the CV shaft pu there with a torn boot.
I spent about 15-20 minutes pulling the door card off to put the rod back on the handle. At that point I found out the lever for the pot metal is broken. Guess I'm going to be combing ebay for another one. If I were baller I'd get repops and look nice. Then again at those prices sketchy it is.
Here's what I'm working on. I need to get in there, tape some stuff up now (unlike the PO) and then shoot some black up top so it covers up the original paint.
Straight on. Not so bad is it?
You can see the contrast now. Lot worse when it's seen that way.
Much, much better. Not perfect but at least if I'm about to get t-boned at a light I'll know it now.
I need to take care of the piece that goes down from the hood latch after that the nose can go back on until I do headlights
Got a HF bead roller I tried to weld bracing to it my 110V MIG isn't good enough. Weather has been a hot mess here so I haven't had a portion of a day dry enough to roll out the big welder yet. Good enough to make sure I don't blow stuff off (I hope anyways)
Some additional clearancing was required for the silicone elbow. All good now. Oddly the sides are slightly offset from one another. I had to get some longer legged 90s as well. Kinda sucks since the ones I got were 2.75->3 reducing elbows. I wish I'd have just gotten a 2.75 piping kit in the first place it would have likely made things a ton easier anyways. I would have had I realized the IC outlets were not 3". Oh well. Fifth time's a charm I guess.
This is how it comes out on the driver's side. I relocated the coolant resivior (I like this one, it's bloody huge) and I'll add an Astro Van washer tank/pump somewhere else. Probably the opposite side of the boost pipe.
I will definitely have further cutting on this side. I'll likely need some more silicone to make this work, but I think it'll be fine. I'll have to do some cutting on the 90 if I go to EFI or keep it as blow through because the leg of the elbow is too long. I'm not sure that I want to go to the side of the carb like that either honestly or if I want to try and do a convoluted series of 90s if I do a blow through.
Here's the driver side hole. It was done with a 4" hole saw. The passenger side went relatively easy, this one was being a pain in the ass and I broke a ton of the pilot bits for some reason. Ended up kind of chiseling and breaking it out.
Here it is with a 90 poking out. I stuck a Tide cap in the hose to keep junk out of it while I was working.
The passenger side got a 45 to clear the MSD box. I need a 3-2.5" adapter for the turbo, but I need to figure out how the turbo's going to be positioned first. I may have further cutting on this side.
Perhaps the silliest part about this all is that I have a head swap, a cam swap and a fuel system upgrade that I want to have happen before I even think about building the turbo setup. I may make the bracket, a chunk of the up pipe and the down pipe before hand, but there's a ton to do before I even get to the turbo. Chances are the tubing will be duct taped for some time and I'll be driving it around.
Got a HF bead roller I tried to weld bracing to it my 110V MIG isn't good enough. Weather has been a hot mess here so I haven't had a portion of a day dry enough to roll out the big welder yet. Good enough to make sure I don't blow stuff off (I hope anyways)
Some additional clearancing was required for the silicone elbow. All good now. Oddly the sides are slightly offset from one another. I had to get some longer legged 90s as well. Kinda sucks since the ones I got were 2.75->3 reducing elbows. I wish I'd have just gotten a 2.75 piping kit in the first place it would have likely made things a ton easier anyways. I would have had I realized the IC outlets were not 3". Oh well. Fifth time's a charm I guess.
This is how it comes out on the driver's side. I relocated the coolant resivior (I like this one, it's bloody huge) and I'll add an Astro Van washer tank/pump somewhere else. Probably the opposite side of the boost pipe.
I will definitely have further cutting on this side. I'll likely need some more silicone to make this work, but I think it'll be fine. I'll have to do some cutting on the 90 if I go to EFI or keep it as blow through because the leg of the elbow is too long. I'm not sure that I want to go to the side of the carb like that either honestly or if I want to try and do a convoluted series of 90s if I do a blow through.
Here's the driver side hole. It was done with a 4" hole saw. The passenger side went relatively easy, this one was being a pain in the ass and I broke a ton of the pilot bits for some reason. Ended up kind of chiseling and breaking it out.
Here it is with a 90 poking out. I stuck a Tide cap in the hose to keep junk out of it while I was working.
The passenger side got a 45 to clear the MSD box. I need a 3-2.5" adapter for the turbo, but I need to figure out how the turbo's going to be positioned first. I may have further cutting on this side.
Perhaps the silliest part about this all is that I have a head swap, a cam swap and a fuel system upgrade that I want to have happen before I even think about building the turbo setup. I may make the bracket, a chunk of the up pipe and the down pipe before hand, but there's a ton to do before I even get to the turbo. Chances are the tubing will be duct taped for some time and I'll be driving it around.
Not much progress. Almost done with the hood latch support and I worked on the IC brackets.
Not a lot of pics, but I started with a 1.5x.125 stock. I cut, bent, drilled and rounded off off corners, checked fitment and applied paint.
Drying and waiting for final fitment.
Not a lot of pics, but I started with a 1.5x.125 stock. I cut, bent, drilled and rounded off off corners, checked fitment and applied paint.
Drying and waiting for final fitment.
Bits finally showed from USPS today. The label got mangled. New seals and a gasket.
This is hole is the vent.. I drilled another is the brake hose T. The two little ones there? No clue what they do.
The disc brackets mandated new longer bolts.
The old seal was little more than rust. I had to work it out. They were both different so at least one was replaced.
Trying to figure out where the caliper hose goes. Realized neither the plates nor ubolts of the old axle will fit. FUCK. Gotta get em now.
Not pictured I dropped the carrier out. I forgot it doesn't use shims so I have to set that up again. I did that to clean the tube after drilling and tapping. I want as near a bolt in as I can have.
Those two holes are for the rivets that held the brake line holder that let them fold two tabs over the line and hold the brake line up next to the axle for the production line/protection against car carrier straps.
Progress, not a ton but there.
I finished up the front hood latch mount and all I need to do is relocate horns and the front clip can go back on.
I also did a bit more on the body filler in the front nose. It needs a bit more work but hey that's life.
I did a small amount of work on the turbo mount bracket. Not much but it's a start. I need a spacer and am hoping 2 3/8 bolts are good to hold a T4 up.
The biggest thing I did was work on the axle. I cut, drilled and tapped some brake line brackets then welded them on.
I almost forgot that I plugged the axle vent and relocated it to the stock location since I had the welder out. I cut a 7/16 unf bolt off and welded the piece in.
I had pulled the center out forgetting 8.25s don't use shims to clean. Thankfully one side didn't have the adjuster fall out of the cap. After a bit of Messing with it I was able to get .006 backlash.
I want gear marking compound but when I went to O'Reilly they said they would have to special order it by calling acdelco. Wtf
I finished up the front hood latch mount and all I need to do is relocate horns and the front clip can go back on.
I also did a bit more on the body filler in the front nose. It needs a bit more work but hey that's life.
I did a small amount of work on the turbo mount bracket. Not much but it's a start. I need a spacer and am hoping 2 3/8 bolts are good to hold a T4 up.
The biggest thing I did was work on the axle. I cut, drilled and tapped some brake line brackets then welded them on.
I almost forgot that I plugged the axle vent and relocated it to the stock location since I had the welder out. I cut a 7/16 unf bolt off and welded the piece in.
I had pulled the center out forgetting 8.25s don't use shims to clean. Thankfully one side didn't have the adjuster fall out of the cap. After a bit of Messing with it I was able to get .006 backlash.
I want gear marking compound but when I went to O'Reilly they said they would have to special order it by calling acdelco. Wtf
Still moving on this. Reassembled the headlight bucket then the grill and turn signals. Also started working on the placement of the turbo and in turn the down pipe. Wish I had the mini starter but you need the 4 speed auto trans to make it fit.
Made an adjustment of the hood hinge on the driver's side. The hood now opens correctly. Yay! Hood to fender lines are still shit, as are the doors. Probably need shimming of the fenders.
Made an adjustment of the hood hinge on the driver's side. The hood now opens correctly. Yay! Hood to fender lines are still shit, as are the doors. Probably need shimming of the fenders.
Boy you could make a whole thread about cleaning that garage and all the cool stuff you'd pry find in there ?
I need to put a bunch of it up various places. I have a few ads on CL but I need to renew a bunch more and see about some more still. I have:
-2 Holset VGT Turbos from 6.7 Cummins
-2 stocker GN Turbos
-1 7.3 PSD turbo
-1 9" rear axle with 2 center sections
-1 GN gas tank
-1 set ET Street Pro 275 Radials
-Some traditional Pontiac stuff for a 350
-TH400 BOP long tail
-Performer RPM intake
-SBC dizzy with some mods (no vac, Mr. Gasket kit, Accell coil.
That really just scratches the surface. I have a 750DP I was working over for blow through I'd love to find a 390DP to swap for as well, but i doubt that'll happen.
That also doesn't include a bunch of other Chevy parts I don't know that I'm ready to give in and offload yet.
-2 Holset VGT Turbos from 6.7 Cummins
-2 stocker GN Turbos
-1 7.3 PSD turbo
-1 9" rear axle with 2 center sections
-1 GN gas tank
-1 set ET Street Pro 275 Radials
-Some traditional Pontiac stuff for a 350
-TH400 BOP long tail
-Performer RPM intake
-SBC dizzy with some mods (no vac, Mr. Gasket kit, Accell coil.
That really just scratches the surface. I have a 750DP I was working over for blow through I'd love to find a 390DP to swap for as well, but i doubt that'll happen.
That also doesn't include a bunch of other Chevy parts I don't know that I'm ready to give in and offload yet.
This stuff showed up today, not the nuts for the brake lines sadly.
Also, fuel lines and fittings ordered. I will use a 255 or 340 in tank pump. I did 8an which is overkill but I will do it once. I have a nice Aeromotive regulator for this as well and a semblance of a plan.
Also, fuel lines and fittings ordered. I will use a 255 or 340 in tank pump. I did 8an which is overkill but I will do it once. I have a nice Aeromotive regulator for this as well and a semblance of a plan.
I started making my fuel pump block off plate yesterday. started out with a chunk of 3/4" thick aluminum in a cylinder format.
I drilled the 2 small holes after tracing the fuel pump on it.
Then I drilled the big hole for the turbo oil drain. It turns out I didn't have the correct drill diameter so that's on order. I still need to remove the material that doesn't have the shape of a fuel pump blockoff. Being aluminum I predict this likely to be a pain in the ass honestly.
Did some porting today. Overall cranky with the results we shall see.
First off were the exhausts. There was a hump that was about .1 tall that was the transition on the roof. I smoothed that out to the outlet of the port. Did zero enlarging of the port though.
Did a bit of work in the bowls and the short sides of the exhaust. The throats are already open near 85% of the valve diameter so no reason to go much if any bigger.
This is the chamber stock. I scored it for the HG size.
Then proceeded to do a bit of work in the chamber to unshroud. I think this will be the gains in the intake if any. I did some work in the runner to bowl area too using a cylindrical bur. It was too big and 100% wrong for the job. This is where I feel like I really fucked up. I put probably about 3 hours in all into the heads though, so we'll see. Didn't break through so I'm going to probably just fucking run it.
So what should I do about valve guides? I have the seal tool from Comp to cut down the valve guide bosses so that I can run a bigger cam. I need the arbor but it's like $50. The guides on the exhaust are fine (if I have the valve out about 3/4" it gives me about .001-.003 wiggle on the exhaust) but the intakes are pretty loose (they are about .004-.007 on the guides) and make me kinda nervous. Just say fuck it and send it? I'm thinking my next $100-150 is probably better spent on getting a valve mic and that arbor than getting the guides knurled.
I drilled the 2 small holes after tracing the fuel pump on it.
Then I drilled the big hole for the turbo oil drain. It turns out I didn't have the correct drill diameter so that's on order. I still need to remove the material that doesn't have the shape of a fuel pump blockoff. Being aluminum I predict this likely to be a pain in the ass honestly.
Did some porting today. Overall cranky with the results we shall see.
First off were the exhausts. There was a hump that was about .1 tall that was the transition on the roof. I smoothed that out to the outlet of the port. Did zero enlarging of the port though.
Did a bit of work in the bowls and the short sides of the exhaust. The throats are already open near 85% of the valve diameter so no reason to go much if any bigger.
This is the chamber stock. I scored it for the HG size.
Then proceeded to do a bit of work in the chamber to unshroud. I think this will be the gains in the intake if any. I did some work in the runner to bowl area too using a cylindrical bur. It was too big and 100% wrong for the job. This is where I feel like I really fucked up. I put probably about 3 hours in all into the heads though, so we'll see. Didn't break through so I'm going to probably just fucking run it.
So what should I do about valve guides? I have the seal tool from Comp to cut down the valve guide bosses so that I can run a bigger cam. I need the arbor but it's like $50. The guides on the exhaust are fine (if I have the valve out about 3/4" it gives me about .001-.003 wiggle on the exhaust) but the intakes are pretty loose (they are about .004-.007 on the guides) and make me kinda nervous. Just say fuck it and send it? I'm thinking my next $100-150 is probably better spent on getting a valve mic and that arbor than getting the guides knurled.
Bought a roll of cupo-nickel brake line and the stuff bends fucking awesome.
That said, I can't figure out how the fuck to do a double flare on it. It just seems too soft and I end up bulging the end or the end comes out wonky and off. What am I doing like an idiot here? I'm about ready to rage quit and go buy a roll of steel to do this with and see if I've lost it.
That said, I can't figure out how the fuck to do a double flare on it. It just seems too soft and I end up bulging the end or the end comes out wonky and off. What am I doing like an idiot here? I'm about ready to rage quit and go buy a roll of steel to do this with and see if I've lost it.
I've come across way too many rental brake line flaring tools that are off center and I've had to bend the legs on the screw press portion to get it to line up straight.
Mark one side of the screw clamp and try it both ways 180° off from each other and see if it straightens out.
Also it is very common for people to let it protrude too far remember it needs to be below the step height on the little fixture dies.
Mark one side of the screw clamp and try it both ways 180° off from each other and see if it straightens out.
Also it is very common for people to let it protrude too far remember it needs to be below the step height on the little fixture dies.
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