BUILD Mustang replacement....1971 Bronco

quikturbo

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Dec 24, 2004
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Back in April I got the idea to toss a number out on 1 FB group specific to coyote swapped classic mustangs on my 66' and I shouldn't have been surprised, but I got offers immediately lol. It was at what looks like the peak and yes I am kicking myself slightly for not going a bit higher, but honestly I thought it was fair. I've kept in touch with the new owner, thankfully a true car guy and he's been enjoying the car exactly how I wanted someone to be! Also I have an open invitation to come over to MI and take it for a drive if I ever feel the need :)

I took a few months to figure out which direction I'd like to go, newer, modern with power, etc.. but I again came to the realization I like classic, as well as the "build", it's like a giant puzzle for me and that is what puts me in a place of peace and quiet (most of the times lol)

Anyways, I've always wanted to build a Bronco, and after building my wife the 74' Scout I really found myself enjoying a truck and just cruising.
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So I started looking for one that had good bones, meaning mainly the frame, vin, title and if all worked out some usable sheet metal on the body. I ended up finding one in OK and made the deal and once it got here Sept. I assessed the body, and well, you know the rest of the story.... found terrible patch work, hidden stuff everywhere, the one saving grace is that they have long travel upgraded suspension on it that they spent the money on and had it properly installed/welded on the frame.

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Out with the old...

In with the new

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I'm going to stick with the factory color (Boxwood green) may add some metallic to it and make it a version of the Scout's brittany blue in green form.
Marti Report
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No timeline on the build but some here know me and I'm not a patient man lol, so maybe a year and a half to 2yrs.
Coyote swapped of course!
I'll keep updating as I continue with the build.
 

quikturbo

Regular
Dec 24, 2004
386
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Thanks guys.
Mook, the only thing I can truly say I go all in on are my car builds lol, everything else, not so much.

As for the RS chassis, yeah, like my "former" friend above ;) we've been back and forth many times on this chassis, TDK, etc..
The nice thing is, if I wanted to just take the new body, motor, etc.. I could drop on a new chassis, however it's unlikely.

Would be a genii coyote with a 6r80, dana20 (advance adapter). Rear is a 9", front is Dana 44, so will just upgrade guts and pick proper gearing. Suspension, will likely be just adding bilstein long travel shocks to the James duff 3.5" suspension.

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HF spot welder is pretty awesome for reachable spots, I'm only using them in addition to some plug welds for less grinding.
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Dr. Jimbo

Two dollars, CASH!
TCG Blue
Aug 16, 2005
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Thanks guys.
Mook, the only thing I can truly say I go all in on are my car builds lol, everything else, not so much.

As for the RS chassis, yeah, like my "former" friend above ;) we've been back and forth many times on this chassis, TDK, etc..
The nice thing is, if I wanted to just take the new body, motor, etc.. I could drop on a new chassis, however it's unlikely.

Would be a genii coyote with a 6r80, dana20 (advance adapter). Rear is a 9", front is Dana 44, so will just upgrade guts and pick proper gearing. Suspension, will likely be just adding bilstein long travel shocks to the James duff 3.5" suspension.

View attachment 136849

HF spot welder is pretty awesome for reachable spots, I'm only using them in addition to some plug welds for less grinding.
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I'm excited for this.

We did this one, line-x and Baja Designs all things

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quikturbo

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Dec 24, 2004
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Working with new sheetmetal is sooo much easier than surgically removing the old cancerous rust, granted repop metal still needs a TON of work, but I actually enjoy that part. The fact that most of the measurements are available out there and then tweaking based on "actual" repop really helps. Lots of sheetmetal screws to get everything in place and then when I mark for plug weld hold locations, punch, drill, etc.. I'll start to slowly put it together burning it in for good.



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quikturbo

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Dec 24, 2004
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That has been great not having to worry as much about sourcing sheet metal for sure, what I've found out though is between Dynacorn, Dennis Carpenter and other brands of repops all have weird quirks specific to each. I've also figured that certain pieces that mate with each other (inner/outer fender, endcaps) work best when from the same vendor :)

Made some progress and got the kicker panels & a-pillars welded in, remounted the doors and they were a bit better than when I mocked up before, will still need shimming but looks like the gaps will be nice. Rocker needs work, but not too bad. Tailgate and grille have been the nicest pieces so far, both original ford tooling which explains that.
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quikturbo

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Dec 24, 2004
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Nice work!
Have you done body work by trade before? It sure looks like you know what you are doing.
Only body work I've done is through the projects I'be built that required it which is only a few, and by body work it's mainly been sheet metal. I have a buddy with a body shop and over the years have watched and relied on him for the finishing type of body work, filler, blocking, etc.. however he's going to be retiring so I may be taking a stab at that stuff myself.
Sheet metal work is some of the most tedious trial and error test fitment stuff I've ever dealt with especially when you're dealing with larger panels.

He's right though some of the worst of it is taking off the old cancerous stuff without looking like you had sex with a cheese grater
Absolutely agree man, I feel like I've had the truck built multiple times already only to have it apart again and again as I work my way up from the back. Why I like metal work is that it can be ground down and body work can make it seamless :) so it can be a bit more forgiving on getting it perfect.
Oh and thanks for that visual LOL sadly it's true 😆
 
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quikturbo

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Dec 24, 2004
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I'm at the dreaded door alignment place that seems to be what nightmares are made of in most restorations, especially Bronco's. I'm using these stainless lift off hinges and not certain if that's what's causing some of the issues so I ordered a set of stock style ones to see if that allows me to bring it closer to the b-pillar without significant shimming. The panel gaps at about 1/4 seem ok by my standard, I know many shoot for 3/16 but not sure that's doable here on the doors. I can adjust the front fender to close that lower part but given the rear section is not adjustable, working off of that is what I need to focus on. Happy to take feedback here :)

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I was looking for some wheels/tires cheap to just be able to roll the truck on and found some on FB, oddly enough they came off a 93 OSB f150 and have the perfect bolt pattern and offset. I think I'm going to actually use them as the final wheels, but have the centers powdercoated an anthracite color like I did to the mustang wheels.
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terrible ps of some bigger tires just to visualize
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