That's the worse part about a LS, you just can't change the lifters by removing the intake. Changing the lifters is more-less a pain in the ass! You'd kill yourself if you'd pull the heads, not change the lifters, then 4k miles down the road a lifter eats itself!
🔧 Technical LS Lifters
- Thread starter JFish75
- Start date
Probably more likely to spin a new “ls7” lifter vs what’s in there in 4k miles…..
That’s my dilemma, lol. Or if I change them and they fail or cause issues then I’m pissed I should have left it alone. Would need to think about new length pushrods also if changing.
Lifter trays! Should be replaced. Unless you buy a set of link-bars, which is always what I've bought.
That’s my fear with all the bad things I read. Should I just leave well enough alone.
Dunno what to tell you. I’ve seen plenty of people replace shit since covid and it eats itself. Meanwhile his cam and lifters are already jiving and low miles
Yeah if a change lifters would definitely replace the trays.
Depends on what you have now. I'd go a nice set of link-bars.
MOREL LIFTER SET - LS - HYDRAULIC - LINK BAR - 5290
MOREL LIFTER SET - LS - HYDRAULIC - LINK BAR - 5290
briantooleyracing.com
Yea know just a quick $600…. Then if you do change lifters…. Even to stock LS7 you definitely have to at least measure for pushrods. And if you do pushrods should probably go with a little thicker ones….. seeeeeee where I’m going with this. If your shit if working now just leave it alone. Make sure they all stay where they were and let it rip imo.
Depends on what you have now. I'd go a nice set of link-bars.
MOREL LIFTER SET - LS - HYDRAULIC - LINK BAR - 5290
MOREL LIFTER SET - LS - HYDRAULIC - LINK BAR - 5290
Yeah I hear that! Already upgraded to hardened push rods with the cam.
This is what I've kinda gathered as well. The ZZP "LS7" lifters I bought were pretty obvious knock offs and you don't need to disassemble them to see that they won't last more than a few crank rotations in a stock LS or 3800. I think it's the people buying knock off shit because they believe everything they read and not inspecting anything who are trying to damn the genuine parts.
But But according to the internet you just need 7.4 pushrods, no need to measure!!! I dont know why my lifters are failing!
I do have a pushrod checker and I did check when I did the cam, they are 7.4 and it checked out, valve train is nice and quiet.
I dont remember the lengths off the top of my head, but I always measure as well. When I put together a motor it was somewhere shorter. I then had the block and heads decked/surfaced and I came up with 7.4! I checked like 80 times because it made no sense LOL. The point is, always measure 
Not knowing all you did, it sounds like you have stock block deck, stock head design/deck, stock rockers and you maintain the OEM base circle of the cam lobes regardless of change in lift/duration/lobe separation, you shouldn't need anything more than 7.4 in an LS motor. An LS7 lifter, OEM or knock off, shouldn't be that far off to change this, no?
Yeah I didn’t touch the heads other than replace springs and installed the brass bushings in the rocker arms and the aforementioned pushrods. Which makes me think it shouldn’t change, but not sure if the LS7 are the exact same height and preload or “close enough”. Decisions decisions. All the different info here is much appreciated but exactly what has been spinning around in my head. I just need to pony up and settle on something.
Curious, what gear do you have out back?
JFish75 Brass? You mean bronze trunnions?What's the actual verdict on best lifespan for a stock or barely bigger than stock bumpstick?
Bushing or bearing rocker pivot kits.
I'm getting the idea a good kit would be worth it to get genuine gm ls7 lifters.
And new trays. Didn't know that was a thing but I think I saw em included in the TX speed kit.
Just the stock 10 bolt, 3:42
Yeah sorry, and yeah I agree seems like maybe the consensus is to get genuine LS7 lifters and trays. And yeah I would be getting the heads and probably just everything else from Texas Speed, make it a 1 stop shop unless I can get them for way cheaper and guaranteed that they are legit.
Well someone mentioned Johnson so I went on a tangent of some research and some say the tie bar kit is worth it. I believe the "race" units are the axle pressure oiled, descriptions seem to imply that's the main reason they are "race"
I spend too much time learning shit on here.
This guy I know John, cool guy, has a sweet banana with a purple trunk. There's even a drinking game involved somehow, dunno heard it from a guy kj.
He's forced me to learn how far the Lsux aftermarket has come to keep eyes out for two ls4s if I ever find em.
We'd totally make 16 cylinders happen, hopefully with less than 58k in each.
Just working on my old junk I've lost touch with where things ended up since I haven't seen a FSC rag in a while.
I spend too much time learning shit on here.
This guy I know John, cool guy, has a sweet banana with a purple trunk. There's even a drinking game involved somehow, dunno heard it from a guy kj.
He's forced me to learn how far the Lsux aftermarket has come to keep eyes out for two ls4s if I ever find em.
We'd totally make 16 cylinders happen, hopefully with less than 58k in each.
Just working on my old junk I've lost touch with where things ended up since I haven't seen a FSC rag in a while.
Vengeance racing and scoggin-dickeyare also good places. The god father of the LS works at scoggin-dickey
Yeah I am familiar with Scoggin Dickey, they’ve been around for a long while. I bought my plugs and wires from them a while back. I’ll check them out and compare.
Texas Speed....meh
Something wrong with them?
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