🔧 BUILD LikeABauce302's 427 SBF Twin Turbo Build. 404 Error: LS Content Not Found

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Since I've been on this site for awhile now, I figured its time to post up the project I've been working on. Some of you may recognize the car. The previous owner raced it quite a bit and ran it in the IMSM series.

Here is my 90 Mustang LX hatchback:

Mod list:

Engine:
-Stock block bored .040" over
-Stock crank
-Forged rods
-Forged pistons
-Balanced, machined, and assembled by Opel Engineering
-Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads
-Edelbrock Performer RPM II Intake
-Basically your typical stock block H/C/I SBF

Transmission:
-Freddy Brown Built AOD
-Manual valve body
-Transbrake
-3200 RPM stall converter

Front Suspension:
-AJE K-member and A-Arms
-94/95 Mustang spindles
-Moroso Trick springs
-Lakewood 90/10 shocks
-UPR Castor/Camber plates

Rear Suspension:
-TRZ double adjustable upper control arms
-TRZ single adjustable lower control arms
-stock springs
-Lakewood 70/30 shocks

Chassis and Rearend:
-Welded full length subframe connectors
-Welded torque boxes
-Aluminum driveshaft and safety loop
-Custom 9" rear end
-Roll cage soon to be installed

Brakes:
-Maximum Motorsports manual conversion kit
-94 Cobra master cylinder
-Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve
-Maximum Motorsports braided lines
-99 to 04 GT brakes all around

Wheels and Tires:
-Chrome Pony R Wheels
-Rear: 17x10 with 275/40/17 M/T ET Street Radials
-Front: 17x5.5 (narrowed by Weldcraft) with M&H Racemaster Radial Front Runners

There are probably a few things I'm missing. I bought the car in December of 2009 and it's been a work in progress ever since. It was a solid well built car when I bought it, but it needed some work to make it street driveable.

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How the engine bay looked when I first started working on it:
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Teardown and preparation for cleaning up the engine bay:
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Beginning to fill in all of the holes in the engine bay:
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Engine bay all finished:
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5 lug swap time:
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94 spindles all cleaned up and new hubs installed:
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Maximum Motorsports manual brake conversion with 94 Cobra master cylinder, and new UPR castor/camber plates:
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Finishing installing new brakes up front:
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Test fitting the new wheels
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I've still got some work to go. Before spring I'm going to freshen up the rear end and I'm planning on installing a Holley EFI system. If I have enough time and funds left over, I want to install a roll cage of some sort since I'm planning on running at the drag strip quite a bit.

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LikeABauce302

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Aug 27, 2013
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Matt
Very nice cupcake. Are you overwhelmed like me? Do you plan on it being done this year so you can embarrass @Jeffs FRC new autotragic boat? ?
Yes, somewhat overwhelmed but not quite as much as when I first started and had no clue what I was doing. I have the hardest parts done, but still a lot of work to go. I keep adding things to the to do list. I just remembered I have to replace my rear gears. I have a 3.70 now that will have to be swapped for something else like a 3.15.

I REALLY hope this car is capable of beating a stock drivetrain car that weighs 4K pounds…lol

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it hangs with stock coyotes with a little boost ??

congrats on the great progress ,I have known this car for 15+ years..looking forward to that 9 sec run this fall..well deserved
Thanks Rich! I'm looking forward to getting this car into the single digits and still be able to street drive it.
 
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LikeABauce302

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AOD still? What’s first gear?

Quick performance has good pricing and shipping when you order. And they’re only in Iowa
Yup, still an AOD. First gear is 2.40:1.

I'll look at quick performance. I forgot about them. I was just going to order from Strange.

I may put the car on a chassis dyno before I swap the rear gears. That may help me narrow down the ratio I want. Stupid me wants to gear it for 1/4 mile racing, but there are so many more 1/8 mile events now.

Baller (financially irresponsible) me should just buy a second center section to solve that dilemma ?
 

LikeABauce302

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Only had about an hour to work on the car today, but a little progress is better than no progress. I got the passenger side pipe from the turbo to intercooler fit. It just needs to be welded now. I made a pie cut to fill the gap you see here. I ran out of time and couldn't weld it today.

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LikeABauce302

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Finally turbo fab work is finished. This week I found someone to help me cut the end of of the driver's side turbo compressor housing so I could weld an elbow onto it. I decided to sloppily weld it myself today because I just wanted to get it done. It turned out okay. Not the prettiest weld, but it came out better than I expected it would for my first try at cast aluminum.

My dad asked one of the machinists he used to work with if he could cut my compressor housing with a vertical band saw. He went way overboard and used a mill :LOL:. Either way, it got done and was less sloppy than me using a cutoff wheel and trying to straighten it out with my belt sander.

I just have to bead roll the ends of that short tube in the picture and put another coupler on it. The hardest part of this project is finished.

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LikeABauce302

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Looks good. Now hook up a couple of wires and start this thing! haha
As much as I want to, I'm going to take it all apart soon so I can paint the engine bay and any raw sheet metal that has been victim to my Harbor Freight angle grinder.

I still have some minor fabrication things to do. I need to make new mount pads for my lower radiator support because it doesn't fit my radiator very well. I also need to figure out where to put the scavenge pump and I will need to make some sort of mounting bracket for that too.
 

LikeABauce302

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Whoa, it's been over a month since my last update. I need to start doing work again ?

Not much new going on with the project. Like most people, my summer has been busy so far, so I haven't had much time to work on the car. I worked on it a little bit yesterday. Over the last couple weekends I got the scavenge pump mounted. I made a bracket that comes off of the lower radiator brace. I'm going to Tee both of the turbo drains together and run one line into the pump. The inlet of the scavenge pump is just about parallel to the turbo drains, so it should work well in this spot.

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LikeABauce302

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Coming together nicely! When do you hope to have this bitch on the road!?!
Hopefully before snow starts falling. It's not going to the race track until next season at the earliest. I just want to get it moving under its own power before this year is over.

My next step is to disassemble everything. I need to cut off the lower radiator mounts and make new ones because I don't like the way my radiator fits, then paint the engine bay and any raw metal around the front of the car.

While the engine is back on the stand, I need to figure out alternator mounting. It will be a little bit challenging with the motor plate, but I think I have an idea that should work.

After those small details are ironed out, it's just a matter of reassembly, plumbing, and a little wiring.
 

LikeABauce302

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I think I'm finally finished cutting and welding on the car and I'm finally ready to take it all apart to paint the engine bay.

Yesterday I installed one of the last pieces of the puzzle. A Motion Raceworks engine travel limiter kit, to keep the engine from trying to move forward or backwards. I could have made something cheaper, but this was a nice well thought out kit that saved me a lot of time.

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LikeABauce302

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From what I have seen on the YouTube's, motion is a solid company.
Looks like a nifty part.
They make really well thought out parts and manufacture almost all of their parts in Iowa. I still had to do a little cutting and welding to fit my setup, but they provided everything I needed to make it a simple and quick install.
 
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