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Let’s talk camshafts: AFM delete but keeping VVT

Bob Kazamakis

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I don’t think you need pushrods, I’d definitely just use the springs in the Texas speed kit.
The kit includes springs and push rods and the phaser. By the time you add up the phaser and springs your only a few bucks from the kit so kinda makes sense to just get it with push rods.
.600 is decent lift, you might wanna consult on that. With my .630 lift I believe I went with 3.800"

It's been a while (almost 6 years)

Vvt seems to have much higher lift than non. It was the cam they suggested for my mods (just headers/exhaust and tune in addition to the cam).
 

Bob Kazamakis

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Just out of curiosity, what kind of gains should be expected with that package?
Can’t find vvt stage 2 results but here’s a non vvt 5.3 with the same specs. The stage 3 one has a recommendation of a stall and I don’t want to dive in that much. It’s more to delete AFM with the addition of more hp.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fNdvPVUzGdA
 

Bob Kazamakis

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Unless you are running high RPM, or loose tolerances you don't need a high volume pump.

It costs you some HP to drive over a standard volume/pressure pump.
It currently has a high volume pump.

I talked with a guy at Texas speed and he basically said stock is perfectly fine but I could change both for “peace of mind”.
 

Bob Kazamakis

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My 2010 Camaro SS has a GPI SS3 VVT cam, ported heads etc.

For the swap needed lifters (went LS7), VVT cam, Comp Cams phaser, valley cover (LS2 I think we did), new springs (went BTR) and pushrods.
I purchased the cam I talked about from TSP which included valve springs, cam phaser and pushrods. I still need to grab gaskets, valley cover and lifters/buckets still but I won’t be doing it for a month or two most likely so no rush.


Going to leave the timing set and oil pump but I think I’m going to change out the pickup O-ring since that seems to be a common failure.
 

HILROD

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The double roller chains are easy to clearance for. Usually some tiny grinding on the timing covers over the bolt heads. Also I usually take off like half of the bolt head height for more room/less grinding. I have taken apart a bunch of these things, only around 2 had low enough miles to keep the stock chain. Even then a bigger cam and springs I always do a chain. People used to just get a C5Rchain but now they cost too much and have been braking. If your chain is tight, I would get at least a timing chain dampner. solid one like this.
 

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Bob Kazamakis

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The double roller chains are easy to clearance for. Usually some tiny grinding on the timing covers over the bolt heads. Also I usually take off like half of the bolt head height for more room/less grinding. I have taken apart a bunch of these things, only around 2 had low enough miles to keep the stock chain. Even then a bigger cam and springs I always do a chain. People used to just get a C5Rchain but now they cost too much and have been braking. If your chain is tight, I would get at least a timing chain dampner. solid one like this.
I didn’t see anything aftermarket for a VVT setup. Texas speed said I could just do an ls3 chain for a replacement.

I see most dod delete kits come with a new tensioner so I planned on swapping it.
 

HILROD

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I don't think the chain matters vvt or not, but not sure. I also have not ever done anything but throw vvt sprockets away. I know I helped with a vvt cam long ago and it had to use limiters, I think in the upper gear. If the gears look good, test fit the chain only to see if it's tight.
 

Bob Kazamakis

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I don't think the chain matters vvt or not, but not sure. I also have not ever done anything but throw vvt sprockets away. I know I helped with a vvt cam long ago and it had to use limiters, I think in the upper gear. If the gears look good, test fit the chain only to see if it's tight.
The cam came with a phaser limiter. Vvt seemed silly to get rid of when it can make more power overall and not just peak.


Honestly I’m not doing anything crazy so I think it’s just fine. Only other mod I was doing was the trunnion upgrade on the lifters.
 
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