LCA Removal Issue

greasy

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So on the wrecked Camaro I got the driver's side LCA removed with no issue, but I cannot get the bolt out on the passenger side LCA where it fastens to the frame. The back of the aftermarket subframes bolt up using the LCA bolt. I am not sure if the frame is tweaked binding the subframe against the bolt, but I have tried jacking the car on the back portion of the subframe to relieve some pressure and it does not help. There is about 3-4 inches of space to work with on the end of the bolt so there is no way to get a BFH (Big Fucking Hammer) in there to pound it through.

Last resort is drilling a hole in the frame to put a socket extension with a socket over the end of the bolt so I can pound it through with the BFH. Any other suggestions?
 

Chester Copperpot

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Heat. Lots of it.

I recommend a flameless heat gun. When I tried removing my leaf spring bolts(big ass M14x1.25x120mm bolts that go into the unibody) they would not budge with a 1/2" impact on it. The guys at the auto hobby shop gave me that flameless heat gun and after getting the bolt head red hot, the impact took them out like they were brand new.

Here we go, found it.



Induction Innovations Mini-Ductor II
 

Stink Star Productions

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SOMETIMES IF ITS BAD ENOUGH I HAVE TO MELT THE WHOLE RUBBER BUSHING OUT WITH THE TORCH, BUT USUALLY GETTING THE BOLT RED HOT WILL BREAK IT FREE FROM THE SLEEVE
 

greasy

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So when it is heated, just wrench on while applying pressure on the other side to move it out? The nut is already off.
 

1MEANGT

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It's a Chevy............ Did you expect it to be easy?
 

GearsForYourRears

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I had the same problem removing the front bolt of a jeep cherokee rear leaf spring. No access to the back side of the bolt, and the bolt was siezing to the sleeve in the bushing not allowing it to slide out. I used heat and that didnt work, working it back and forth and using a 24" breaker bar with a 6' (yes foot) cheater pipe and a bunch of PB blaster, finally freed it up enough for me to get it out using the BFI (big f'ing impact) and working it back & forth.

Good luck with that bolt. Things like this can be utterly frustrating!
 

greasy

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I had the same problem removing the front bolt of a jeep cherokee rear leaf spring. No access to the back side of the bolt, and the bolt was siezing to the sleeve in the bushing not allowing it to slide out. I used heat and that didnt work, working it back and forth and using a 24" breaker bar with a 6' (yes foot) cheater pipe and a bunch of PB blaster, finally freed it up enough for me to get it out using the BFI (big f'ing impact) and working it back & forth.

Good luck with that bolt. Things like this can be utterly frustrating!
I know! I was sweating my balls off and finally said fuck it as it was not holding me back on removing other stuff off of the car. It still pisses me off when I walk into the garage seeing it connected to the car though. :rofl:
 

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