LC-1 Wideband installed *Pics*

rdsnake

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Installed my LC-1 wideband tonight. The install was super easy. Hardest part of everything was finding a shop to install the bung in the ehaust, other then that it was just a matter of hooking up a few wires.

I went with a small square box for my read out. I figuare if I had one of those gauges going back and forth, yellow, red, green, Id toss it out the window.

I mounted the LC1 unit under the shifter, this was the best place I found for it. I heard others zip tied it under the car, onto fuel lines etc, I really didn't like that. I wrapped up all of the extra wire and put it behind the radio.

While in the process of cutting some electrical tape I ended up cutting my finger pretty good with a new razor blade, I got a drop of blood on the seats! I ran to get a wet towel from my bathroom (hand dripping with blood), ran back outside to get the blood out of my seat (blood now dripping down to my arm). Then ran back upstairs to take care of my finger..It didn't stop bleeding for like 10 mins. It was pretty wild...























Kevin
 

Wiked03

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Wow, I just bought that same setup from dynotune and will be installing it soon. Did you install the LED and calibration button?

Where did you run the grounds?
 

Marko

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Looks Great! Good Work.

How much did that cost?
 
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rdsnake

rdsnake

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Looks Great! Good Work.

How much did that cost?
$250

Wow, I just bought that same setup from dynotune and will be installing it soon. Did you install the LED and calibration button?

Where did you run the grounds?
I didn't install the LED or calibration button, seemed like a waste of time to me

The green & blue wire I grounded together, right behind the radio on the pass. side, their is a factory ground their. I just added those ground right to, the others

The blue wire, I ran back thur the shifter (two holes their to run wire thur) Then grounded that on the inspection cover on the trans. This wire HAS to be ground by it self, on the engine bolt.
 

Wiked03

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$250



I didn't install the LED or calibration button, seemed like a waste of time to me

The green & blue wire I grounded together, right behind the radio on the pass. side, their is a factory ground their. I just added those ground right to, the others

The blue wire, I ran back thur the shifter (two holes their to run wire thur) Then grounded that on the inspection cover on the trans. This wire HAS to be ground by it self, on the engine bolt.
Thanks for the tips.... you installed yours pretty much exactly like I have been planning ... hope you don't mind if I copy ya. :D
 
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rdsnake

rdsnake

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rdsnake

rdsnake

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After driving around with the wideband installed, I couldn't imagen ripping up the streets without one. One of the best mods I've ever installed.

Only down side to the gauge is that, while driving at WOT w/ 600+ on tap It gets pretty hard to read the gauge and keep the car on the road. I wish their would be a light or something that is set to a preset A/F limit and would light when it goes under that set limit. Maybe Ill look into that.

Kev
 

Wiked03

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Are you still able to calibrate it?
Yeah if you don't use the button, you can just ground the black calibration wire for a couple mins and it does its thing, then you can just tape it out of the way.

For a street car they say you should calibrate it once every couple of months.
 

CREJoe

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Don't be surprised if you have a leak at the sensor with that poor welding job.
 

Sharkster

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oh I like that. Fits nice right up there out of the way but where you can see it right away. $259 isnt bad either.
 

rocket5979

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They come calibrate right out of the box. I can calibrate without the switch.




You still have to recalibrate them on occassion. I suggest that you wire recalibration momentary switch and light in there. If you do not like them then just keep em hidden. If you just touch the wire for a moment then you will not know what the LC-1 is doing because you will not be able to see the blink sequence of the cal light.
 

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