Drag to reposition cover

BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro


sktchy3.8

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You weren't joking about the rust on that thing either, am I wrong or am I lucky mine doesn't have any of that?
 
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v6buicks

v6buicks

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You weren't joking about the rust on that thing either, am I wrong or am I lucky mine doesn't have any of that?
Nah, mine's just a particularly massive pile of shit.
 
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v6buicks

v6buicks

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The car was keeping me up at night while I attempted to think of anything I did wrong and how to seal this thing up. I've pretty much axed the idea of putting the stock PCV back in. It's not a great solution since it will work exactly the same while my problems are happening. Then it just introduces oil into the intake under vacuum. No thanks.

I joked about installing a vacuum pump, but it actually sounded like a decent idea until I looked at costs and realized that no other 3800 people seem to need one. It's too bad that nobody seems to make any decent electric vacuum pumps designed for continuous use.

Back to 3800s being fine without the pump. I was digging around my stashes in search of my -12 AN check valve and found a random rear main seal. This sparked my last two brain cells to remember that I only changed the seal once. The second time, I only replaced the cover gasket. Cool. I probably need to go ahead and put that new seal in. In the mean time, I'm curious about how much if any any register-able crank case pressure there is. I hooked up my pressure gauge to the dipstick tube and ran it into the dash.
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1636305389064.png
 
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v6buicks

v6buicks

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I beat the snot out of it and did a nice burnout in front of my buddy's place. It's the first time I've successfully done a RWD burnout without brake standing. It was awesome!

The gauge only registered about half a psi at most while bouncing off the limiter, so I can't imagine that boost is doing any significant harm to the seals. I think I just need to get over this and accept that it's time to replace the seal AGAIN and hope that the issue was caused by the misalignment of my rear cover during the first installation. Maybe that wiped the lip out? Maybe it's just a shitty seal? I probably installed it wrong in some way or another. Is there any trick to it? I'm hoping to not take the cover off this time.
 
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v6buicks

v6buicks

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Saw somewhere to only use an oem seal there or you could run into issues
Yeah, I heard something along those lines too.

What's your oil pressure? any feed restrictor?
To the turbo? There's a restriction. Oil pressure is really high according to the stock gauge. 90psi when I'm really giving it hell.
 

sktchy3.8

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Is seal depth a real big issue? I know there's a member of tcg that was testing some 3d printed seal drivers. Twincharged grandpa buick guy makin like 500 wheel on a stock cam setup
 

bs009

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I've been having rear main seal issues too. While my trans was out though I replaced it with an ACDelco seal and installed it using the dealer tool this time. Not sure if the issue has been solved yet but I think this is the best chance of it working.



Don't need to take the cover off, according to the FSM the cover gets installed first. There's an alignment tool you can use for the cover too to make sure it's also aligned properly. J-41349. I didn't pull my cover off myself but I was pretty confident it was fine.
If you buy the first tool just use a screwdriver to pry out the old seal, then install the new seal onto the tool with some lube on it, screw it down to the crank flange and spin the tool until it sets. The tool has some instructions on it too.
 
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v6buicks

v6buicks

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I've been having rear main seal issues too. While my trans was out though I replaced it with an ACDelco seal and installed it using the dealer tool this time. Not sure if the issue has been solved yet but I think this is the best chance of it working.



Don't need to take the cover off, according to the FSM the cover gets installed first. There's an alignment tool you can use for the cover too to make sure it's also aligned properly. J-41349. I didn't pull my cover off myself but I was pretty confident it was fine.
If you buy the first tool just use a screwdriver to pry out the old seal, then install the new seal onto the tool with some lube on it, screw it down to the crank flange and spin the tool until it sets. The tool has some instructions on it too.
This is the information I've been needing! Thank you! I for sure just smashed that seal on there. As for the rear cover, I "aligned" mine by making the bottom of it flush with the pan rail. Since there's a special tool for that, I'm guessing that was the wrong thing to do. Time for me to read up some more.
 
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v6buicks

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Just bought one of those tools. 👍 Maybe I need to inspect everything a little closer when I pull it apart, but I can't see imagine anything except the cover would change the alignment of the seal. Does the tool crush the seal body accordingly as long as the cover is in the ballpark?
 

bs009

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From what I could tell the tool seems like it just makes sure the inside lips go on the crank properly and it sets the depth properly. There might be some other magic to it but nothing else I really noticed that was that special about it.
Setting the depth though seems like it's gotta be pretty important though because I've never had an aftermarket rear main seal properly yet. I figured it was worth trying though for $35
 
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v6buicks

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I didn't factor the depth either. Interesting. I look forward to trying it out now. At least it'll give me a tad more confidence.
 

Bob Hope

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I’ve always put a small smear of Hondabond around the outside of seals for piece of mind.

Hell back in my small engine mechanic days I used to reinstall old crankshaft seals with Honda bond :rofl:
 
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v6buicks

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Make sure you use a gm seal. No felpro's.
Will do. I think I'll use the fel-pro for practice on my spare block. lol

Since I replaced my cover gasket, I looked into (and purchased) the cover cover install tool as well.

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It's J-41349. As bs009 bs009 mentioned, the cover is installed first without the seal. The cover alignment tool goes where the seal would be while you torque the bolts down. In other words, I got the priority all wrong. I was too worried about the oil pan gasket when I needed to be getting the real main seal clearance right. Weird. I would have thought that the shaft seal would self adjust. I hate that I have to redo all this, but it makes me feel a lot better knowing that I'll have tools to ensure a proper install. I'll also be killing two birds with one stone with the transmission removed.

I can't forget to pull my TOB back a turn. In my initial setting, I had to make a decision. Either place it just a hair on the tight side or on the very loose side. I chose tight and now it's growling while the clutch is engaged. :cautious: Hopefully, loose doesn't make the pedal feel goofy or cause some other issue.
 
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v6buicks

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Does anybody else find it odd that all of these tools are labeled as being for L36? Why not the L67?
 

GTPpower

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Probably because they just made way more l36's. L36 and l67 blocks, cranks, front and rear covers are all identical.
 
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v6buicks

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I forgot that I took this picture. Kinda strange how the color gets washed or burned out of this cheap wrap.
washed wrap 11-8-21.jpg
 

sktchy3.8

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That's exactly what happened when I tried to wrap my downpipe red on my old setup. Burned the color right out of it. Also see it on the spark plug wrap things. At least it makes it easy to find the burned spots
 

bs009

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Yeah anywhere that doesn't get sprayed with the silicone spray stuff has always lost its color in my experience. I buy the cheapest wrap I can find though :LOL:
 
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v6buicks

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If anybody want's more, I have a big roll in my basement I'll sell cheap. lol I think I'll be ceramic coating it all if the parts come off again.
 
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v6buicks

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I need to to take a little internet hiatus because I'm getting married tomorrow and leaving the country for a week following. To celebrate, here's my first action video featuring three gears, line lock, and a lot of smoke.
 

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