🔧 BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro

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Hello! Welcome to the shit show! I am updating this post in 2021 to explain what new readers are about to witness. If I knew that this thread and build were going to explode into what it is today, I would have started it out a lot different.

This car was (and still is) a basket case. The whole inspiration for starting this project was to start learning how to modify engines in a car that I didn't like. That way, if and when I screwed up, I wouldn't be ruining a nice car. It spiraled out of control from the first moment that I felt boost. I loved what I had created, but it took a ton of work to get to where I was. As soon as I got the car running nicely I was always saying "I'm going to fix______, and THEN I'll just enjoy driving it." You know the drill. Drive, break, fix, repeat! Before I knew it, I enjoyed driving and working on this turd more than the nice car I was trying to preserve!

The point is that the focus of this thread shifts A LOT. To complicate matters, I never have just one ongoing project open at a time. I listed some thread contents with links below. I will update this as new milestones or big updates happen. Just know that even if you click on the shortcut, you may have to scroll past other project posts to reveal the outcome. There are also some mini-projects and very helpful advice from other members in between, so read the whole dang thing if you want!

2018-2019
1. A late introduction
2. Discovering how a PCV works (and plugging it)
3. Custom grill for intercooler
4. Fuel pump trap door
5. Learning that I'll never learn anything from my goofy wide band gauge
6. Deleting AC completely, but retaining heat
2020
7. Low profile heater hose fittings
8. Deleting an air bag without setting a light on the dash
9. Starting a second round of floor repairs
10. ABS delete and line lock installation
- A separate thread for the electrons
11. Installing catch cans with nice brackets (Way overkill)
12. Figuring out the "blow by" problem once and for all (F-body intake plug)
13. Second clutch job, first rear cover job, and preliminary transmission swap research
14. Floors are "done", and Interior is installed.
15. I don't know how to tune, but this wide band might help.
16. Poly trans mount. Yeah, it actually deserves a link.
17. I waved the tuning white flag. Dyno Brian sets me straight!
18. T5 Pro5.0 shifter
19. New shifter was too much fun. OG T5 explodes, and my transmission conversion ideas start to get serious.
-TKX conversion
-TKX swap official write-up
20. Reconfiguring my exhaust for a quieter and less leaky future
21. I'm not done enjoying this car for the year, so I install a $100 T5 instead of a bulletproof conversion. SPOILER ALERT: It only lasts two months.
22. Minor repairs/updates that make the car livable (lighting, stereo, speedometer re-zero, and a clutch master cylinder that actually does it's job!)
23. Wheels and addressing rust again since I got time!
2021
24. Custom center caps
25. 1.9 roller rockers and LS6 springs
26. CAI V2.0
27. TKX is delayed so it's time to address the little annoyances.
-OE pan is junk. Dorman pan gets hot rodded
28. TKX is still delayed, so I install just one poly engine mount and beef up my flimsy turbo drain plumbing
29. TKX does NOT ship the following Monday. Flywheel bolts upgraded to ARP M10 x 1.0
30. When you're on a Chinese garbage budget, you better be ready to work harder. (Oil drain fitting hot rodding)
31. Finally repairing the oil sender pig tail, replacing the other engine mount, and test fitting the TKX.
32. Finally addressing rear brake lines while I wait for more transmission parts.
33. Modifying an ICM for a WOT box
34. Dash gets re-instrumented so that diagnostics become possible.
35. N2MB WOT box
36. Porked crank key. PSA: Be careful installing your balancer!
37. Car runs great after plug change, but the rear main seal needs to be changed again.
38. BURNOUT! Also, I kinda bought a cam.
39. Turbo drain finale (better be) and full exhaust commenced
2022
40. Downpipe V3 and BMR strut tower brace
41. Panhard bar and relocation for bro truck exhaust
42. Muffler, driveshaft, torque arm, and giving up smoking.
43. First trip to the GS Nationals (feat. time slip)
44. The very custom AC project is born
45. New dyno results (up 50 hp!)
46. Exhaust hanger repair before Michigan/S.S. Badger/Wisconsin trip
47. Sizing a better turbo
48. Painting but still not installing the IS3 heads and Monster clutch unboxing
49. Firewall brace
50. New ECM
2023
51. Out of storage and SC engine buy failure #3
52. Modified double roller and spitballing crankcase evac ideas
53. Completing the rear suspension. UMI rear control arms.
54. Cracked headers and L32 swap begins
55. My newest L32 was trash. I'm upgrading the L36 instead
56. Side project: The ultimate-ish intake manifold takes shape


Now back to 2018!
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Now that this car is running and driving, I figured I would start a thread dedicated to all the questions I’m about to pummel this group with. This is the first time I've really built anything to move quicker than stock, so I'm hoping to learn a lot from you guys before I make unnecessary mistakes. I also have a thread in the Turbobuick.com 3800 section, but I'm not getting as much input there due to a lack of audience. Here goes nothing...

The car I have is a 2002 Camaro with only ONE factory option (rear window defogger). The story supposedly goes that my buddy's dad was looking forever for a new Camaro because he never buys anything for a penny more than the best deal. He almost ran out of time as this was the final model year for the F-body, and '03s were already on the market. The dealer from which he found this car bought it for the sole purpose of being able to advertise "Brand new Camaros for under $10k", so this was the one he took home.

Fast forward to 2018. The car was structurally a wreck from living in the rust belt, but has a great interior, okay black paint, a third pedal, a 3800 (which is a plus in my book), and a lot of sentimental value since I remember riding in it when it was brand new. My buddy’s dad handed me the keys in hopes that I would enjoy it and make it a race car. To be honest, I don’t care for F-bodies, but I couldn't resist this one for the reasons above despite knowing that the floors were in desperate need of existing again.

I already had my dream car which is a 1986 Buick Regal Grand National. As much as I love that car, I like it the way it is in fairly stock form and modifying Buicks has gotten terribly expensive anyway. I figured a black 3800 Camaro could easily fulfill my childhood dreams of racing a badass turbo Buick V6 car while being on a budget, so here I am.

The car is now equipped with:
-6765 ebay turbo
-Precision PW40 wastegate
-Custom turbo exhaust utilizing a stock Camaro and FWD manifolds
-Air to air ebay intercooler
-AEM 50-1200 fuel pump
-Siemens Deka 80# fuel injectors
-Open 3” downpipe
-Custom 3” charge pipes
-Intense mail order tune
-Very ugly but functional upright radiator conversion (the core support was all just rust anyway) :dunno:
-Custom space saving AC delete without bypass pulley
-Midwest Chassis bumper support modified to mount my intercooler
-Spec Stage 1 clutch kit

The car is far from refined and has a lot of little issues to sort out, but I will leave the first post as sort of an introduction to that. I hope you enjoy hearing about it. It’s been fun to build!

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v6buicks

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Intake gasket set should have one in it? Hell I could probably dig around here and find one if you dont have any luck
You would be right about that. I probably had one too, but I really didn't want to replace it with another rubber. Only to do it again a year down the road.

I poked around some o-ring kits and found a matching rubber. Then I did some more digging and found a viton. Hopefully that's a win. The Fuel Injection Connection just says "for methanol and E85" so I have no way of knowing what material they use. Oh well. It think this will be a lot more resistant to chemicals than rubber. By the way, what is this thing called?? Google isn't helping me.
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I'm also finding that my original vacuum harness is starting to fall apart as evidenced by the rubber still on the top nipple. lol This sucks because it's V6 Camaro specific. I think it'll be fine for now, but it's something I need to start shopping for or figuring out how to make with some vacuum hose and adapters.
 
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v6buicks

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I just sent my injectors to my buddy in Oswego. He's going to check them out on his flow bench. They don't get there until Monday though, and he'll still have to ship them back.... I'm thinking about being an idiot and wiring up that WOT box while I wait. I love adding variables to mix before I've even figured out my running issues. :p

The instructions are not very good though. It's to be expected to an extent, but I could at least use some electrical limitations.
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Good thing I have service manuals. Here's the CPP circuit.
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Here's the throttle circuit.
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And here's the ICM circuit.
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bs009 bs009 Help me confirm. What exactly did you do? This is what I think I need to do based on the books. Maybe this deserves it's own thread in the technical discussions.
N2MB schematic.png
 

v6buicks

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Updated. I think the power going into the box can come from anywhere. This sure is a lot of cutting and splicing though. I think the best way to tackle any of the splices that are connected to the PCM would be to remove the pin and re-crimp a new Micropack pin with two wires in it instead of the stripping splicing and re-soldering nonsense. I am a little nervous about doing that because I know those pins are super tiny. I think that GM actually did that in a couple slots though, so it should be okay. Then the only actual splice I'll have to make is for the throttle position.

Something is odd about that though. I am unable to find a connection between the TAC module and the PCM. Somehow the PCM needs to know the throttle position, but I'm not seeing anything on the C1 or C2 pin-out chart with that label. I'll do some more digging tonight and hope that isn't part of the class 2 serial data. It would be pretty slick and much easier to have all the signal wires coming directly from the PCM. ?
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v6buicks

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Fireballs would be so awesome. But my luck I'd do everything right and still trash another bottom end.
I decided to cool my jets. It's not worth adding the variables right now. Besides, it's already spiraled from "just six wires" to depinning the ECM connectors and basically the dash harness redo all over again. I don't really have time to play with the car this weekend, and if I really feel the need to work on something I should do brakes on the 240.

What it comes down to is that I've been watching way too much Drag Week coverage, and it makes me want a race car. :cry: I need to be patient though or else I'll have nothing fun to drive this fall.
 
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bs009

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This was the way I wired mine, but my car has a cable throttle body and not the drive by wire deal. Is there a sensor on the pedal too on those? That might be easier to pull from, but you could just try and pull one of those signal wires you mentioned too. You can invert the signal in the WOT box software if the voltage is backwards (5v open or 5v closed, either way can work). Worst case scenario you can just add a switch somewhere for WOT on the pedal somewhere to have that send power to the WOT box and trigger it.

Their docs mentioned to pull the RPM signal from an injector in the cobalt write-up and that worked perfect for me. I don't think the typical RPM signal will work but who knows

You can definitely pull power from anywhere for it. I also added a relay for the coil power so I can have it switch between normal constant 12v like it would have from the factory and the pulsed 12v signal from the WOT box.

Clutch signal is flexible because you can invert that one in the WOT box too so that should work. I think I want to tweak mine a little bit so that it keeps the WOT box engaged when the clutch is in its friction zone but I can probably get around doing that by launching the car properly. Just something to consider.

excuse my very crude drawing that I had to fix with paint :LOL:
N7u1CkL.jpeg
 
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v6buicks

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This was the way I wired mine, but my car has a cable throttle body and not the drive by wire deal. Is there a sensor on the pedal too on those? That might be easier to pull from, but you could just try and pull one of those signal wires you mentioned too. You can invert the signal in the WOT box software if the voltage is backwards (5v open or 5v closed, either way can work). Worst case scenario you can just add a switch somewhere for WOT on the pedal somewhere to have that send power to the WOT box and trigger it.

Their docs mentioned to pull the RPM signal from an injector in the cobalt write-up and that worked perfect for me. I don't think the typical RPM signal will work but who knows

You can definitely pull power from anywhere for it. I also added a relay for the coil power so I can have it switch between normal constant 12v like it would have from the factory and the pulsed 12v signal from the WOT box.

Clutch signal is flexible because you can invert that one in the WOT box too so that should work. I think I want to tweak mine a little bit so that it keeps the WOT box engaged when the clutch is in its friction zone but I can probably get around doing that by launching the car properly. Just something to consider.

excuse my very crude drawing that I had to fix with paint :LOL:
N7u1CkL.jpeg
The TAC module is attached to the pedal on this car, so it's definitely the best place to get the throttle signal. That's interesting info regarding the tach signal. That might be a good opportunity to ditch these adapters and solder injector pigtails in place.

Dang. This turned into a lot of work!
 
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sktchy

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I would imagine if I'd send my 60s from zzp in they'd be worse than that. But I second asking where you got that done because I'd like to get em done someday just to see. My ebay 80s came with a printout of flow rates I quickly tossed in the trash but at least I have some kind of good feeling about going back in with those.
 

v6buicks

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I need to do that to my shit yet I dread doing it. Who did you use?
My buddy is an auto teacher at Waubonsee College so he tossed them in there for me.

I guess I get to buy another set for the Camaro instead of getting new ones for the GN like I planned. I believe that these too came from ZZP. Perhaps I can buy a V8 set and try to make two good sets?
 
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Mr_Roboto

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Any chance of you being able to find a dealer to see about getting a singleton? Any chance its clogged/leaky and a cleaning will fix it up?

My injectors are high Z SVO 35s modded to 55s kind of like today's decapping craze. I guess nothing is new under the sun. I'm fucked if those puppies are messed up, I'd be offloading them to someone with a 6er.
 
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v6buicks

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Any chance of you being able to find a dealer to see about getting a singleton? Any chance its clogged/leaky and a cleaning will fix it up?
This is post-cleaning. ? I don't know if buying a single injector is an okay thing to do or not. Aren't they calibrated in sets? Maybe ZZP just breaks up V8 sets to make V6 sets which is why they don't flow well? I found it ultra strange yet typical that they showed up in ZZP packaging instead of whatever Siemens used.
 

Mr_Roboto

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possible you have a bad injector. Typically such things are done by taking lots of a part, measuring and then making sets of them that match in characteristics. Say 250 or so nets you about 31 sets of injectors and a couple that are sent back as out of spec or doa or sold individually. I would look at a few injector shops if you have flow results and ask if they could get you one based on those numbers.
 

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