TCG Elite Member
- Oct 22, 2018
- Reaction score
Not that we would be doing anything cool... All our lawn mowers would have dyno sheets though.
It shouldn't, but everybody's scared of it because of the load it puts on things. Poppin pistons on my car doesn't help that much but maybe when race season slows down for the year and harvest is over I'll get to play with it some more. If nothing else it's a safe place for me to play and learn rather than try and lose my license on the highway.Haha I could only imagine the kind of shenanigans that would happen here in Indiana if a friend or I had a dyno. It would probably never go unused.
That takes time, keep it up when you can and keep the videos up. I think it'll grow just not in a month. Social media presence for such things is a big deal.I'm still eating my ass over the expensive tool in the corner of my shop that hardly ever gets used but it's still pretty awesome to have when a guy gets to use it.
Those are a handy tool, I 3D printed one for doing wire with. I bet I could 3D print one of those too now that I've said it.It's a game changer for sure. After seeing for how poorly the pre-bent stainless stuff tends to fit, I won't be messing with that crap anymore. The pre-flared stuff at the parts stores are nice in a pinch, but I hate that it still rusts. I bought a long roll of the Ni-Cu on Amazon or Summit for pretty cheap. No regrets. Having this ultra expensive straightener tool is a big help too though. I'm not bragging. It was a dumb thing to buy for how little it gets used. lol
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Your right but I've had that before at least locally. I prefer word of mouth and doing solid business with loyal customers. Less headaches and exposure that way.That takes time, keep it up when you can and keep the videos up. I think it'll grow just not in a month. Social media presence for such things is a big deal.
It was pretty obvious once I started probing around. There was only one connection that went from the power pin to the board and coils.Hope you were able to get the right pin on there, that one has a lot going on in it compared to the one's I've seen so far
Get ready for the loud backfire of the no-lift shift! It scared the crap out of me the first few times until I realized what was happening
It works really good though - even better than the two step does right now for me
Oh yes. Coming soon!Soooo....fireballs?
I've got a set I'll send you, I'm gonna run my 1.9 modded stocks when I go back together. I'm just gonna have to do a little lookin for a pedestalWaiting for parts sucks because it always reminds me that there are other issues I can address in the mean time.
The brake lines are finally done so that's a nice load off my shoulders, but I keep forgetting about that ugly noise under the hood which started after the roller rocker install. The easy solution would be to throw the stock rockers and push rods back on, but I really want to find the problem.
I was watching a video last night about rocker roller to valve tip contact which I believe is what I've been failing to check this whole time. I have a pushrod length checker. I just never really knew how to use it. I'll probably order some dummy springs on Amazon and try this eventually. However, I think in order to save the engine and my heart from breakage, I'm going to scavenge some stock rockers and pedestals to put back in the car. My clutch hose hasn't shipped yet, so I should have plenty of time to dick around under the hood while I wait.
ShitPlease tell me you did not crank the Rockers down on the ones where the lifters were up on the lobe. More than a few times I've seen fully pumped up lifters bend a valve when the Rockers were Tightened unless all pistons were below tdc.
The two end rocker should be first as they align the rocker stand assembly and on base circle.
After that I go for the ones that are also on Bass Circle and then I rotate the crank until the ones that were on the nose of the lobes are now on base Circle and then finish the sequence I also slowly tighten them to keep the lifter compressing instead of staying pumped up and forcing the valve open.
You may want to do a leak down test or a compression test