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BUILD LAME Turbo V6 Camaro


Turbocharged400sbc

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that has to be newer.

i swear they have 3.8 SFI 3x/18x support but do they have the ability to use digital v6 Crank signal id love to run 10* resolution
 
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I took a break from the Camaro to pay attention to the GN. That car made it to and from the nats without issue, and I was pretty happy with it. I then brought the Oldsmobile home to flip it which also went well (quick). That meant the Camaro was back on deck.

I'm very happy and relieved to say that my first night of progress was very successful. The dowels are out, and the block is relatively unharmed. My plan to drill a Mickey Mouse into the pins worked flawlessly.
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There's one!
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And the bore looks flawless
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I couldn't get the drill bit straight so the second bore got hit pretty good. It's no biggie though.
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I am now back to square one. The bell slides on like butter. The real test will be if my measurements are the same now as they were before all this mess. If so, I'm going to have custom dowel pins made. If not, I'm going to reevaluate this whole operation.
PXL_20210527_004753160.jpg
 
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One of my buddies was trying to convince me to be done with the dowels and leave the ones I have in there. He doesn't think it's going to hurt anything by having the bore off-center by such a small amount. I have no idea, but I wouldn't that that Tremec would stress it so hard if it wasn't critical.

What do you think?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Oem stuff is almost always a product of Tolerance stacking but if I recall the worst Factory bellhousing alignment I ever found was just under 0.020.

You know he's probably right but if you ever have issues with clutch drag or hard shifting you might want to revisit it...
 
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I'm just really glad that somebody else in here has been through this process. That small of a tolerance seems ridiculous. My understanding was that you wouldn't necessarily even feel anything wrong with the transmission. You would just prematurely wear the tapered input shaft bearings.

I don't know. I can't justify calling it good enough when there isn't much else for me to do on this thing for at least a month. I think the machinist here at work can make some dowels on his 4 axis lathe if I ask him nice enough.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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You're talking about making adjustable offset pins that are designed for the 3800 for the id of our oem ocating dowels?
 
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I would think you'd probably be better off making new sleeves that have the ID of the off-the-shelf adjustable dolls
That was did before and somehow screwed up. The biggest problem I have with that is that I lose the 5th bolt hole. The other issues being that off the shelf stuff is too long. If I grind it down, I lose the flat head or or hex to move it how I need. Of course the custom ones won't have it either, but they should move a lot easier.
 
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As mentioned in the transmission conversion thread, my custom dowel pins worked! This means that there is only one thing left that I can do in terms of the conversion until the transmission arrives. To be honest though, I'd rather just get some of the dumb stuff out of the way, because I am more anxious about the forgetting to tighten bolts, fill the engine with oil, or some other silly mistake than I am about making progress. Besides, the garage is a mess, and putting a couple parts back on the car will help with that issue as well.

To start, I removed the bell AGAIN. Then I removed all the flywheel bolts, sprayed everything down with brake cleaner, and reinstalled with new lube, loctite, and full torque. No crank stripping this time. :bigthumb: I THINK I can finally say that the flywheel is staying on the engine until it's back on the road. 🤞

Then I installed a new starter from my stash. I broke one of the studs last time I removed the old starter. :( I put the heat shield on as well which is now missing a bolt because the block to transmission bracket will no longer be used on that side. This reminded me about the issue I found on the other side. I can't just remove the passenger side bracket because it also spaces the motor mount bracket. I can't tell you how many times I've bonked my head on that SOB, so it's for sure not staying in stock form. I might just cut it down so that the mount bracket can't be over torqued and ditch the rest. I just want to be sure that I won't need it before I start slicing!

I then decided to take one small thing the other direction before calling it quits. The turbo drain hose needed to come off again. I had a feeling that the supplied o-ring was not going to do a damn thing when I installed it, but I tried it anyway.
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I'll dig through the supply at work and see if I can dig up a thicker one. Thanks China. Great job! Since I'm already back in here and able to see how badly it puddles just before heading down the tube, I'm going to smooth the transition a bit as well. There's a bunch of material to work with, so I'm not worried about breaking through.
 
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Here's a better picture to show the worthlessness of the supplied oring.
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After sifting through the work stash, I found exactly what I needed. I have no idea how I'd spec orings without having a ton of them labeled right in front of me.
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\\

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This will actually seal something!
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I may talk shit about Chinese parts as if I'm not expecting it to be garbage, but I know what I'm walking into. I realize that I'll have to be crafty and resourceful to make it work as well as an expensive part. Sometimes it's a gamble whether it'll work at all. You just need to do some research and make sure the ad doesn't use stock photos. It's still frustrating to see such blatent negligence like this, but I still enjoy having my hands on every little piece of the puzzle.... except for the transmission. Tremec just needs to go ahead and build that for me. :LOL: By the time I finish smoothing the inside with the dremel, I won't be considering this a junk ebay part anymore. It will be a MADE IN USA with international parts kinda deal. :ROFLMAO:
 
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This should drain a little nicer. It's back on the car now. I think I'll finally cut the oil pressure sensor connector off tomorrow so that I can replace the pigtail. Then I'll replace the driver side motor mount, change the oil, and hope this thing doesn't sling parts all over the garage when I try to start it.
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Well I'm a dumbass and forgot to bring my GN pet project/Camaro distraction project home from work. I took that as a sign. 😆
PXL_20210623_234524610.jpg

The old sensor pigtail was hard and kinked but tested good. While I doubt putting the new one on is going to make an ounce of difference in the oil pressure display, moving the sensor made the wiring embarrassingly tight. The wires needed to be longer, so why not? Let's do some overhead soldering with no space to work.

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That wasn't nearly as difficult as expected, and getting rid of the cracked split loom and raggedy tape made this worth the effort. Hopefully, my good tape holds up a while.

One more stupid item crossed off the list! For reference, here is what the pigtail looked like four years ago before the split loom completely disintegrated. Ratchet!
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In case you missed it, the TKX conversion is getting very real. It's also to the point where updating this and the conversion thread without overlap is getting weird. I do plan to ditch the conversion thread as soon as I get the job fully finished and write something in the articles section. For now, here's the latest!

For once, I'm actually losing by having the car garaged. Stepping out to the driveway just to feel a light breeze was a huge relief in this nasty heat. I still managed to get some dirty work done though because the other cars are mint, and I'm motivated as hell.

While I really wanted to continue transmission progress, I also knew that getting some of the unrelated stuff knocked off the list would only get harder to make myself do before the test drive. The most difficult one being the driver side engine mount. I knew it was going to be a bitch which is why I did the passenger mount and quit. I figured that getting a transmission in there is only going to make things more difficult to maneuver. News flash: its a bitch to do anyway. It might have been even worse becasue the transmission probably would have helped with the alignment. Oh well. Live and learn I guess.

Here it is in paint after going to town with the wire wheel. The poly mounts need a clean surface, and the terribly corroded rubber leaves a lot of residue. By the way, the movement I was able to put into this engine by hand was excessive. Before, I was chalking it up as being normal for an engine without a transmission mounted, but the amount of play in the bolt alone made me glad that I didn't skip today's work.
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An embarrassing amount of time later I finished it.
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Yes, it's red. No, I didn't want red. No, I didn't bother returning it because there's no way to see it from the top anyway. This engine is rock solid now! I hope I don't regret poly.

Here's the driver side since I never posted a pic. It was a lot more accessible and easier to align.
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Also here's some proof that it was dirty work. The tub shroom was completely clogged. I guess you'll have that when you decide to work under a shitty car with no shirt when it's 90 and humid. I was wreck. I emptied about a cup of dish soap on myself.
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I'm going to post the remainder of the TKX conversion in here since just about everything else depends on the car itself.

I cut a small notch in the shifter hole and reinstalled the trans. As it would turn out, no cutting of the body brace is needed. This sucker is fully seated on the 3800 dowel pins, clutch, pilot bearing! 🥳🥳🥳

Now for the work ahead. I need 3" of offset in the shifter to get roughly centered in the console. No biggie. American Powertrain makes one.
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I also need to weld a box onto the end of this cross-member.
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For now it's going to rest dominantly on the severed head of a T5. My new slip yoke should arrive soon. Let's hope the driveshaft will still work!
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I'm going to be honest. I haven't been loving TCG lately. I don't plan to leave because the helpful 3800 peeps makes sifting through the garbage worthwhile. The Camaro updates might just be a bit slower and more concise for a while. Sorry for those who actually follow and enjoy my blog style format.

I got the new 31 spline 1350 slip yoke. It's about an inch longer to make up for difference in length between the T5 and TKX. It also ditches the damper, but I think it will be smooth enough when I address the working angles.
Stock yoke and damper.jpg




One side popped.jpg


Grease fittings make me happy.
Conversion u-joint.jpg


It's crusty, but it'll get the car moving.
Driveshaft test fit 1.jpg


Driveshaft test fit 2.jpg
 
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That factory slip yoke is frickin huge!
Watching that u joint come apart is like watching one of those pimple popping videos 🤮😆
And the new Dana Spicer unit is even bigger! What I find nuts is that I can burry the full 4.5" barrel into the transmission. I don't know if Tremec is allowing for a big error margin in yoke size or if there's a pretty long engagement spec. I better look into that. I don't want to twist or break an output shaft.

That was exactly my thought when I watched that shit ooze out like smashed custard donut.
 
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I had to go back to the TKX thread when I found out that the Tilton HTOB was not going to provide enough adjustment for the 3800 clutch. For details on that fun stuff, check out that thread starting at post #240.
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I was also running into serious Volvo trouble. I'm not even going to get into that. To make a long story short, I was delayed. I was even further delayed by garbage drill bits, so I spent two hours of this afternoon making them like new again.
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The Drill Doctor is an awesome tool and certainly saves me a bunch of money in new bits, but it's tedious work.

Since the bits were sharp, I could start making holes in some of the 1/4" steel plate I bent for a handle offset.
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I went with a Sikky handle from Summit because they're relatively cheap and simple. I don't get why knobs and handles cost so much. Once I can confirm that the handle sits where I want it, I'll paint it and consider it done.

Next up is the cross-member. A seven foot piece of box tubing showed up yesterday. I'll use a short piece of this and that 1/4" plate to make it one.
PXL_20210821_211636412.jpg
 
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As much as I itch and ache to get this car back together, I have reached a point of no longer caring about my "deadline". I really wanted to meet up with the 3800 guys on Power Tour, but the stop in Indy is this Wednesday. Could I thrash this car together really quick and make the drive? Probably, but is it worth it? No. That's basically how the 240 went up in flames. I rushed which caused me to say "good enough". It's also why I've done the Camaro's clutch a few times. I rushed to get this thing on the road for PT '19 and ended up putting the clutch disc in backward. I'm not going to let arbitrary deadlines keep this car shitty.

Beyond potential mistakes, I know for a fact that I won't go back and sharpen all the corners I cut. Let's be real. It's going to be in the 90s all week anyway. I'm not going to enjoy slaving over this thing for the next couple days just to drive it without AC to a massive car show. I can always bring another car with AC and have stress free-fun instead.

Anyway, here's what I started working on. The bell came off again so that I could modify the original flywheel cover, and finish the bulkhead.
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The flywheel cover fits the bell close enough to at least get two bolts in by the starter. The uppermost bolt on the other side happens to land on a part of the bell that can be drill/tapped. I will also weld an extension to cover the 60 degree starter pocket and utilize that fourth bolt. I will not be able to use the last lower bolt hole without welding more aluminum to bell. That's not gonna happen. It'll be fine, and I think I'm already going above and beyond for making a cover at all. lol One nice thing about the third gen bell vs the 4th gen is that they actually have M6 x 1.0 threads tapped for the cover instead of just rough holes for self tappers. Me gusta.
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I also wanted to make a bulkhead for the hydraulic lines so that they don't get chafed. The clutch fork hole is also a rather large one for debris to enter if you don't have a boot. I will probably drill holes for the lines to pass through with grommets. Although I think that quick disconnect bulkheads would be trick AF, I don't know how I would pull it off.
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I started thinking about that threaded sleeve for the release bearing last night, and how there's nothing stopping it from rotating on the bearing retainer and throwing my adjustment off. I think a little RTV on the shaft will be plenty to glue it in place though.

Before I got back to work, I made a boob out of cardboard.
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Then I made a steel boob.
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At least my boob won't be exposed in a way that everyone will see. It's small and kinda wonky looking.
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I missed these smaller parts of the conversion that make me feel like I actually accomplished something in a night. It's so much more satisfying. Flywheel cover can be crossed off the conversion checklist.
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Since the welder and grinder were already out, I decided to get going on the crossmember. The short side was ground flush,
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a piece of that tubing was cut off,
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and then it was buzzed on.
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I'm going to cut some of that 1/4" plate into a U which straddles the existing raised portion. I'm thinking I'll box in the ends of the new portion as well.
 

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