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LAME Turbo V6 Camaro


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v6buicks

v6buicks

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I see! Well that's neither here nor there at this point. I loaded the tun,e and the car runs smoother and more uniform than it ever has! Brian is the man. (y) I'm running without the AFC. Therefore, the MAF is back to maxing out under medium loads, but it will certainly do as a commuter if I need one. I'm stoked to see what kind of magic he can pull on the rollers!
 
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I may be overreacting and just looking for any excuse to find a problem, but my voltage looks a bit low when cruising (a hair over 13V) on the factory gauge. This alternator is brand new, but I always thought 14.6to be ideal. Not sure what to think about that yet. I'll poke around with the multimeter and see if I find any drops. I also seem to have a ton of movement in my fairly new trans mount. It's rubber because I don't think a poly version is even available. I figure this won't hurt tuning at all. It just might hurt my power numbers a tad. Damn, I'm nervous 😰
 
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It could cause false knock if the mount is bad enough.
Shit.... Should I try to come up with a solid solution? I looked at the voltage. I don't trust the factory gauge since everything else is around 14-14.1V. I'm cool with that.
 
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I don't think it's "bad" it's just not good enough for the added torque and grippy clutch.

I just found one on RA. It looks like is going to need some work to actually bolt in, but It looks a lot more sturdy than the single studded rubber OE unit. I need to see if TCG has an RA code now.

Edit: I just bought the same one from Summit along with poly motor mounts and some random Volvo bits. That should ease my mind a little.
 

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I may be overreacting and just looking for any excuse to find a problem, but my voltage looks a bit low when cruising (a hair over 13V) on the factory gauge. This alternator is brand new, but I always thought 14.6to be ideal. Not sure what to think about that yet. I'll poke around with the multimeter and see if I find any drops. I also seem to have a ton of movement in my fairly new trans mount. It's rubber because I don't think a poly version is even available. I figure this won't hurt tuning at all. It just might hurt my power numbers a tad. Damn, I'm nervous 😰


Don't even get me started on the T5 trans mount. I had to use a ratchet strap on my T5 after killing multiple trans mounts....

The issue is that the torque arm from the differential puts too much load on the trans mount. Seems like original GM parts held up to it just fine, but everything aftermarket "replacement" is crap. Now that you're actually making decent power it's exasperating the issue. Fat rear tires? Oh boy! That's why there's a ton of BMR and other high-end aftermarket tubular cross-members that isolate the torque arm from the trans (because those LS cars probably roasted them daily). Stock 3800 I broke the Anchor, DEA, and Pioneer trans mounts after only a few hard launches. Divorced the torque arm from the tail end of the trans and problem solved (poly is best avoided at all costs with that endeavor as it will make the car rattle way more). You can ditch the weights on the tail of the trans after you divorce the torque arm as well.

13.5 +/- 0.5 is normal for voltage, around idle with no significant load. 13.2 is what I look for on the scangauge. Anything more than 12.8v means the alternator is at least doing something. More than 13.7 I'd start to question that the regulator is failing.
 
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Don't even get me started on the T5 trans mount. I had to use a ratchet strap on my T5 after killing multiple trans mounts....

The issue is that the torque arm from the differential puts too much load on the trans mount. Seems like original GM parts held up to it just fine, but everything aftermarket "replacement" is crap. Now that you're actually making decent power it's exasperating the issue. Fat rear tires? Oh boy! That's why there's a ton of BMR and other high-end aftermarket tubular cross-members that isolate the torque arm from the trans (because those LS cars probably roasted them daily). Stock 3800 I broke the Anchor, DEA, and Pioneer trans mounts after only a few hard launches. Divorced the torque arm from the tail end of the trans and problem solved (poly is best avoided at all costs with that endeavor as it will make the car rattle way more). You can ditch the weights on the tail of the trans after you divorce the torque arm as well.
Very insightful. Thanks. I was totally unaware about this, but it makes sense. I've had ideas about wheels, tires, and stance for this car since I got it, but it's hard to pull the trigger for several reasons. Hopefully tuning will go well and I'll be able to start working on the underbody again. I'm going to have a hard time installing tubular bling if I don't get the subframe connectors welded in first. Which crossmember did you use? Is it specifically for a T5? Can one of the other ones be modified easily?

13.5 +/- 0.5 is normal for voltage, around idle with no significant load. 13.2 is what I look for on the scangauge. Anything more than 12.8v means the alternator is at least doing something. More than 13.7 I'd start to question that the regulator is failing.
Also interesting. I assume you only mean in terms of what the scan gauge displays? 14.6 at the alternator was what I was always taught to see. I've never paid much attention to volt gauges unless I had an issue tbh.
 
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Thanks for the move Mook Mook (y)

I'm nervous but excited to find out what this turd puts down. Regardless of the outcome, TCG will be the first to hear about it. As of yesterday, I'm officially on the schedule to start pulls at 10:00 next Friday. Let's hope I can squeeze in some minor updates before then without breaking anything! o_O The car runs so much smoother with Brian's remote tune that I decided to drive it to work today. It used to vibrate a lot which I didn't think much about until it was gone.
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Before I get crazy, I just want to say that M Mattstrike hit the nail on the head in post #906.

This transmission mount may be brand new, but it's not doing anything for me anymore. It's time to get crafty.
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The poly mount that Energy Suspensions claims to be a replacement for T5 applications is really for something else. I recall 700R4 and 4L60e mounts looking similar, but the T5 unit is offset and taller. At least they have the same bolt spacing on the transmission.
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I decided to space it up a little. I don't have a pinion angle gauge, so I'm taking a wild guess. Another plate would probably be closer since the old mount wasn't very compressed out of load, but I'll have to grab a longer bolt. See what I mean about the offset?
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In order for this to work, I'm going to need to elongate the holes on the cossmember.
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Ugly drilling.
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Cleaned up with a carbide burr bit.
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The other side where your socket goes has a bigger hole that requires bigger tools to elongate. The dremel death wheel did great once again. After that, I shot some paint and rust converter on the spacers and crossmember so that I could slap it all together.
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The first drive started off very... uh. Noisy. It was bad enough that I questioned how the engine was running, but once I pulled out of the driveway my thoughts went other directions. The shifting was so much more crisp, and that grippy clutch I bought actually feels more how I expected. Its more chattery and less forgiving to driver error, but it holds the torque and puts it into the tires instead of just shaking the transmission. Overall, I think I'm happy with it. The noise and vibration doesn't bug me much since this car is meant to be the one I drive when I want that sort of racecar in the raw feeling. However, I did notice even more KR than when I had the crappy rubber mount. I don't know what to make of that. Hopefully it won't be a big deal once Brian starts working his magic.

Now I'm curious about installing the poly motor mounts. I can only imagine how much vibration will be transferred through those. I'm thinking that might be a bit much. As far as I know, my current mounts are hanging in there, so I'm probably going to leave it alone.
 
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I reached out to another forum today regarding the excessive anxiety I have over getting my car tuned, and they did put my mind a bit at ease. They suggested bringing a new set of plugs, possibly another set of a different heat range, a belt, and some basic tools. Also to let the operator know that my car leaks a little bit in case they want to put a drip pan under it. Everything else I'll just have to sit back and pray that they stay together. lol

I pulled a plug last night after thinking about this because a lot has happened since I last swapped them out. I don't really know how to read plugs burning E85 though.
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I've never been much of an advocate of plug reading, mainly because I think we have much better options than that now days.

That red shade you see is from e85. Other than that, you basically have to shut the car down right away on a wot pass to get any valuable information from the plug.
 
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Yeah, I haven't seen anybody except carb guys and real racers look at them, but I'm a newb. Brian didn't tell me to bring anything so I'll try not to think to hard about it. lol
 

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I would bring your basic hand tools so you can fix the car if it should break down on the way there or back. I would guess Brian has all kinds of tools he would let you use if needed.
 
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I would bring your basic hand tools so you can fix the car if it should break down on the way there or back. I would guess Brian has all kinds of tools he would let you use if needed.
Per Brian's recommendations, I'm renting a trailer, and a buddy is towing me up there. I barely trust this thing to get me to work let alone three hours to the dyno, a couple hours of beating the crap out of it, and three hours home. :LOL: I may be cynical, but low expectations will only make me less disappointed later. The suspense is killing me though. Good thing I didn't schedule it further out! I think I'm going to wash the car tonight. It might make more more confident in the car not being a POS.
 

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Yeah, I haven't seen anybody except carb guys and real racers look at them, but I'm a newb. Brian didn't tell me to bring anything so I'll try not to think to hard about it. lol
IMHO plug reading is essential. I like to see what’s going on cylinder to cylinder
 

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Per Brian's recommendations, I'm renting a trailer, and a buddy is towing me up there. I barely trust this thing to get me to work let alone three hours to the dyno, a couple hours of beating the crap out of it, and three hours home. :LOL: I may be cynical, but low expectations will only make me less disappointed later. The suspense is killing me though. Good thing I didn't schedule it further out! I think I'm going to wash the car tonight. It might make more more confident in the car not being a POS.
Glad you found a trailer. I would definitely do that.
 
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My girlfriend wanted to help me take Instagram pics, so now you can look at my ugly mug AND my ugly car! 😁
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This paint is so shot, but it sure looks good considering! I've never seen the hood or roof shine like it are right now. I kinda ran out of time, so I'll have to try waxing the vertical surfaces and polishing everything another time.

The only other thing I did was replace the trans mount bolt with a flanges grade 8 I found at Tractor Supply Co. It's much nicer and longer than the one supplied with the mount.
 
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Probably crying wolf at this point.... but my car ran like absolute poo after cranking it for a solid 5 seconds. It finally smoothed out after letting it sit a minute, but I'm not sure if that's a tune issue or if one of my brand new Delco coils is going bad. :cautious:

Besides the coils being located right above driver side manifold, I'm not sure why I keep trashing them. I almost want to get a cowl hood even though I'm not a fan of the look. It's kinda late for that now though. I'll bring my stash of unknown condition coils with me to the dyno and cross my fingers.
 

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Very insightful. Thanks. I was totally unaware about this, but it makes sense. I've had ideas about wheels, tires, and stance for this car since I got it, but it's hard to pull the trigger for several reasons. Hopefully tuning will go well and I'll be able to start working on the underbody again. I'm going to have a hard time installing tubular bling if I don't get the subframe connectors welded in first. Which crossmember did you use? Is it specifically for a T5? Can one of the other ones be modified easily?
I cut and welded on my factory crossmember. The ratchet strap was a little too redneck for me. I don't know if any of the tubular aftermarket stuff works with the T5, and I'm planning on a big upgrade for the trans and rear end soon here and didn't want to put a lot of work into it if I'm not keeping it.
 
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I cut and welded on my factory crossmember. The ratchet strap was a little too redneck for me. I don't know if any of the tubular aftermarket stuff works with the T5, and I'm planning on a big upgrade for the trans and rear end soon here and didn't want to put a lot of work into it if I'm not keeping it.
I hear that. I look forward to seeing somebody pull the trigger on a RWD 3800 trans conversion. I'm hoping to get a TKO-600 in mine whenever this T5 shits the bed, but I'm guessing it will be more challenging than it pans out in my head.
 

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Aren't you running E85?
 

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That's probably why the car starts like shit. It should be better after the tuning, just make sure you mention that your E85 cold starts kinda suck. Do that before you take it off the trailer because he can hook the scanner up to the car whilst it is cold and get a good scan.
 
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That's probably why the car starts like shit. It should be better after the tuning, just make sure you mention that your E85 cold starts kinda suck. Do that before you take it off the trailer because he can hook the scanner up to the car whilst it is cold and get a good scan.
Alright. By the way, I had AL 605s in the car. I just tossed 104s in there because I had them, and that still sounds like the right move to me. Nobody telling me to install 103s provided any base to their suggestions. I don't know the exact science myself, but it's still the knowledge I have to work with.

As much as I want the help, I'm really not excited for a somebody else to determine whether my car is going to live or die. This whole experience is making me sick to my stomach. I've only ever known one person who got a dyno tune. He brought his car into the place with nothing else and picked it up when it was done, but his car was only a mildly built up NA LS swap. I guess if Brian wanted me to bring anything he would have told me, but he is not much of a talker... I feel like I might not know enough about what I'm doing to have the combination correct. Therefore, I'm probably going to have problems with the car tuned into the ECM which has me feeling all kinds of negative ways. I'm slightly disappointed that the car is likely going to suck, depressed that I've wasted so much money and effort, and pissed that learning how to do stuff correctly is not going to happen for me. I only have two friends who know anything about cars, and nobody in my family knows anything. I'm kinda on my own, and way too picky to allow shit like this to happen.

It's time I took a break from TCG. When I come back there will either be a limping POS Camaro for sale or pics/videos of pulls and results. Even if there's success, the car might still have to go up for sale. Hobbies are supposed to be fun, and this kind of stress is not worth the short-lived and empty victories.

Sorry to make a thread about cars so depressing.
 

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You just gotta stop over examining everything. You setup is very basic but you're asking advice from all of the 3800 people that all did whatever they did and had ZERO problems blah blah blah. Simple, simple, simple. If the tuner is a good tuner he should be able to see spark knock happen because of the plugs, or because of timing, or whatever. If you NEED plugs you can just run to the parts store and get them. NBD. I really hope you have a positive result with the dyno. People take pieces of shit to tuners and ask them to make magic happen and you're miles ahead of that.
 

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