L67T Mercedes 190E

Moralescj14

Member
Sep 26, 2019
15
168
This is a much needed place to document my engine swap shenanigans. The story begins with a 1st generation Chevy S10, 2.8L and 5spd. I picked up the truck completely stock in 2015 while I lived in Rhode Island attending college. The body was a little beat up with some panels dented and other wet sanded. It had a rot free frame and just under 70k original miles, so it checked all my boxes and I took it home.
IMG_20160812_151912.jpg

IMG_20160812_171203.jpg

The original reason I bought it was because after modifying my daily, Volvo C30 R-design, to the "power vs reliability vs comfort" level I was content with I needed a toy to tinker with. The truck almost immediately got the Belltech treatment. It got spindles+coils up front, leafs+blocks in the rear and street performance shocks on all four corners. I added some Bart Racing 15x8 steelies and tires. Once it was low and handled a little better one thing became immediately clear, i needed a C-notch. I used a bolt in C-notch kit and added little 1" bump stops. I drove the truck like this for many months, more often than my daily drive in fact, which sat idle at the garage. I slowly replaced the banged up panels with straight ones, most coming from an old lady parting out her late husbands truck. It was rattle canned white after being a multitude of colors with all the replacement panels.


IMG_20161116_134147.jpg

IMG_20161130_141810.jpg

IMG_20161203_131514.jpg

IMG_20161203_204343.jpg

IMG_20161218_181931.jpg

IMG_20161219_153332.jpg

I was going to school for Auto mechanics and wanted to put some of my new skills to the test. I started to research what engines I should swap into my truck, affectionately named Lucille or "Lucy" for short. I thought about the common swaps like a SBC or LS. Either would give me the power I wanted in my mini truck but there was one thing that stopped me, both had been done literally thousands of times before. I wanted a swap that would stand out! After a few weeks of research I decided that keeping all the drivetrain from the World Class T5 transmission back would make for the easiest swap. I had narrowed it down to two engines with the gm metric bellhousing that the original 2.8 shared. It was down to either the LQ1 3.4 v6 or the L67 3.8sc. It was a battle over a top end screamer vs torque monster. As the title would suggest, I decided on the L67. The LQ1 is such a unique engine overall but the torque and cost of the L67 made it the perfect swap for me. I found a 150k engine with uncut harness and ecm from a Buick regal for $350 from a scrap yard with a 6 month warranty. It got the good old RockAuto refresh and was prepped to be installed.

IMG_20170302_114606.jpg

IMG_20170309_172126.jpg

IMG_20170323_143212.jpg

The swap took about 6 months to complete, working a couple evenings a week and a few hours on sundays. The cross member had to be modified in order to clear the oil pan. I made motor mounts out of 3/8 plate and swapped in poly s10 motor mounts. I fought a bad out of the box MAP sensor that created a ton of starting/drive-ability issues. I used a Camaro flywheel (balanced to match flexplate) and pressure plate and S10 disc to adapt the engine to the trans. For the big issue of the inlet for the blower, I cut a 3 inch hole in the m90 case and had a 90* pipe welded on. I also have the normal inlet and silencer ports welded shut. A flex fuel 4.3 s10 fuel sender w/ pump was dropped into a new tank and installed into the truck. I also pretty much gutted the interior at this point, with only a dash and racing seat inside.
IMG_20170325_183029.jpg

IMG_20170326_182850.jpg

IMG_20170326_200821.jpg

IMG_20170531_174911.jpg

IMG_20170626_185340.jpg
The Truck was a rocket! The engine produced power instantly! The Intense Racing tune and lightweight chassis made the truck a blast to drive. For the Grand Prix guys, imagine dropping a thousand pounds of weight....yeah, its quick. Over the year or so after the swap it ran reliably for a few thousand miles. I daily drove it for a month or so when my daily had clutch issues. Unfortunately, the engine ended up spinning the number 5 or 6 rod bearing. It was driven hard every single time it was driven so its no surprise. Another junkyard motor was swapped in. I also added a 4x4 8.5 rear end with a gov bomb. WMS went from like 54" to 63" in i remember correctly. The wider rear end let me run corvette rims with no spacers with was a plus but i rubbed hard. Under the flares there was rot starting so I got wheel arch replacement panels, self tapped them on and flared them out 2+ inches with my fender roller. I added tube front control arms and extended ball joints. The rattle can paint started showing its age, but it was a 40 dollar paint job that lasted 2 years and still a 30 footer.
IMG_20180423_164224.jpg

IMG_20180423_173608.jpg

IMG_20180423_182117(1).jpg

IMG_20180425_160939.jpg

IMG_20180425_161933.jpg

I soon graduated from college and after stay for work for another year or so, I moved back to CT. The truck made the 120 mile drive flawlessly (only if you don't count blowing a radiator hose off) loaded up with stuff. I wanted to put an actual paint job on the truck, I was over the faded white rattle can.
IMG_20180909_134214.jpg

IMG_20180910_173945.jpg

IMG_20180913_150715.jpg

IMG_20180913_184321.jpg

IMG_20180913_202258.jpg

IMG_20180925_184305.jpg
The truck sat for months untouched. I started it periodically and took it to work a few times. I eventually put it up for sale...
Well apparently the market for my particular truck was very small because after a couple months I had no takers. Eventually I had an offer, it was for just the body of the truck and it was more than what i bought the truck for originally. I took it, and it was an emotional day, loading the truck up and delivering it to its new owner. He had plans for a 6.0 LS swap meant for drag racing.
IMG_20190113_130839.jpg
Unfortunately I havent seen the truck since....but the sale of the truck left me in a strange position....I had an L67 set up for RWD with its own stand alone harness and ecm just waiting for a body. And I know what everyone who is reading this is thinking "Its called L67 turbo Mercedes 190E and there hasn't been a single Mercedes or one mention of a turbo". Well dont worry, its coming!
 
Last edited:

Moralescj14

Member
Sep 26, 2019
15
168
Its crazy how life gets in the way of these updates. I started this thread December 2019 and am just now getting around to completing an update. I was adding to it slowing but my computer updated and I lost a huge update. so know I'm bombing through in one sitting and posting after every little bit.

IMG_20181025_172334.jpgIMG_20181107_185736.jpg

After the S10, I Found this 1992 Mercedes 190e 2.6 auto for sale on facebook. It had 10 years of service history but didn't currently run and hadn't moved in two years. I picked it up cheap and the next day I had it running. The leather interior was like new! The paint was faded but it was rust/rot free. I ended up lowering it and driving it for a couple months. I really like the chassis and started planning the L67 swap. After my Father hit a deer in his 270k CRV, I let him borrow it. It was hilarious to see a 55 year old man bombing around in the slammed Merc. He ended up having it for the better part of a year, so I did the "car guy logic" and bought another 190e.

IMG_20190108_164636.jpgIMG_20190108_164628.jpg

This car was in similar shape to the silver one. I wasn't going to make the same mistake I did with the silver car of getting it running and enjoying it stock. I had a plan and I was sticking to it. The next day, I pulled the factory engine and trans. These cars with 6cyl have a removable rad support and the hoods open vertically so pulling everything out was super easy. All of the factory wiring and control modules got removed, they filled normal sized shop trash bin. I scrapped the engine, trans, driveshaft, wiring and cats. I got back almost the price of the entire car. The only factory wiring left is about 8" at each headlight and taillight.

IMG_20190324_191815.jpg

So much room for activities! All the swaps i had seen in a 190E have had issues with the steering being mounted behind the front axle. I ran into the exact same issues. No only are there moving parts that need clearance to move but there is the steering box right where my driver side exhaust manifold wants to be. In order to gain the clearance for the steering i notched the oil pan and front cross member.
IMG_20190402_163830.jpgIMG_20190402_180149.jpg

Test Fit!
IMG_20190416_181503.jpgIMG_20190416_181618.jpg

It fits! I wanted to have the engine as far back as I could. If I remember correctly, the L67 was 9 inches shorter than the straight six that came out. This left a ton of room between the pulleys and radiator.

IMG_20190423_152135.jpg

IMG_20190416_181611.jpg
 

Moralescj14

Member
Sep 26, 2019
15
168
As many of the 3800 guys know, the exhaust manifolds can be bolted on backwards. I decided the the best way for the exhaust to clear the steering box on the driver side was to flip the manifolds and run the exhaust forwards.
IMG_20190509_175012.jpgIMG_20190509_182049.jpg

In the right front wheel well there is a 2.5 inch turbo style muffler. I cut a hole in the false firewall and after I removed the wiper assembly, the intake with throttle body had its own pocket to keep the heat from the engine bay out. This is where the factory ecm and battery was located if I remember correctly. The only crazy rust on the car was here, under the battery tray. it traps moisture under the tray.
IMG_20190509_183807.jpg

At this point, the engine was quickly progressing. The T5 trans was in and driveshaft was being made. I used a JTR adapter for the factory rear end. A big hurdle I had was finding a manual pedal box. They made the 190e in a manual but the US got very few. I ended up finding one in a junkyard in Alabama. For the braking system, I replaced all the lines because the ABS deleted. New hoses front and rear. The got new factory pads, rotors and calipers. The fronts got 1995 e420 brakes. Increased rotor size to 294mm and 4 pot calipers. They are a bolt on upgrade and are about an inch bigger than factory.

IMG_20190611_151138.jpgIMG_20190616_173840.jpg

For the first time in months the car was outside the shop supporting itself
IMG_20190621_184259_1.jpgIMG_20190623_194126_3.jpg

Because the factory dash was no longer going to work with any of the GM electronics, I made a simple dash with just the vital gauges. AEM wideband, boost/vac, coolant temp and oil pressure.
IMG_20190623_180539_5.jpg

Next, I rolled the fenders and cut a coil or two off all the springs to get the ride height where I wanted it. I bought a cheap set of AMG wheels, they look fine from 30ft but they are rough. Previous owner rattle canned them and the paint is soft. They are 18x8.5 front and 18x9.5 rear. After the fact, I realized that if I ever wanted to go any lower, the 18 inch wheels would have to go. But for now, they were good.
IMG_20190707_171556_1.jpgIMG_20190707_170315_8.jpgIMG_20190709_173145_0.jpg

I hooked up the wiring harness and she fired right up! The first drive was amazing! Before installing the engine, it got a ported gen 3 m90 blower, ShortStack intercooler, 1.9 rockers and 42lb fuel injectors. The IC has a heat exchanger up front and pump/5gal reservoir in the trunk. After a bunch of tuning and half throttle pulls, it was time for the first WOT pull. I still remember the excitement to this day. Starting from 2k rpm, you get pushed back in the seat from the instant torque. It just keeps pulling! until it tapers off at like 5-5.5k. I know my exhaust is pretty restrictive but I was happy with the power and my tune. Only get the occasional blip of 1*kr if I hammer it at lower rpm, I pulled some timing out around it in my spark table and it stayed. I think it may be false knock from my solid motor/trans mounts. With the relatively tame muffler I have, the first thing you hear is the blower whining from like an 1/8th mile away. I started driving it pretty often, did a few 40 mile round trips to work.
IMG_20190705_205507_5.jpg

IMG_20190707_170308_2.jpg


IMG_20190730_164002_9.jpg
 

Moralescj14

Member
Sep 26, 2019
15
168
The car was a blast to drive! Well...it was...until the trans let go. The trans was the original T5 WC from the S10 and had more than its fair share of abuse. It had survived months of clutch kicks when the s10 had its 2.8 v6. Then abused more behind the L67 in the S10. It had started whining soon after it was put into the Merc. This is what happened when it finally let go: soft launch in 1st-started spinning-grabbed 2nd-still spinning and on rev limiter-snagged 3rd and hooked up-loud crunch-right back to rev limiter. 3rd gear has left the building!

New to me junkyard trans. This one isnt a WC but it was cheap and will let me still drive the car as long as it gets treated with a little respect and care....yeah okayIMG_20190716_161911_9.jpg

I drove the Merc all summer! It was awesome, windows down and sunroof open listening to the blower whine! It was nicknamed "Mieke" after the hot German pen pal from the movie Eurotrip. I watched that movie since I was 10 and Its still one of my favorite raunchy comedies. Also she is the reward after a crazy adventure with friends so it was fitting.

The car was fast but I wanted more. You guys know the feeling! There was a local fall car show called "Cart-oberFest" presented by a local Autobody shop. Because my buddy's 1964 AMC rambler with a sbc wasn't going to be back together in time, we decided to bring the Mercedes WITH A TURBO! This was about 5 weeks before the show. That day I ordered f-body 3800 turbo manifolds, fittings, a second short stack intercooler, walbro fuel pump w/filters, and a turbo. Its a rev9 7268 chinacharger, thats right a shanghai spooly boi! I have seen people have tons of issues with name brand turbos just as much as the off brands so I Figured it was worth the risk. Im glad I did because it was soon replaced with a 6662.

Test fit the turbo manifolds. Had to delete to heater core lines because the charge pipe wanted to be there. of course, there was heat all summer and fall comes and it gets deleted.
IMG_20190915_163652_8.jpg

I had to pull the engine in order to remove the oil pan for the return bung. Atleast, it is very easy to pull the engine out. It only takes about an hour with two people if you leave the trans in the car (trans adds about half an hour and its about 45 minutes to pull trans by itself). Engine back in with second intercooler plate plumbed in to system. I made an intake manifold out of sheet metal and a 3/8 plate.
IMG_20190922_200446_1.jpgIMG_20190928_202910_1.jpg

The car as running and driving again about a week before the car show. I had to cut a bigger hole in the hood to clear the turbo and exhaust. The exhaust is 3" into a Cherry bomb Vortex muffler. The two 2.5" exit in front of both front tires with 3.5" chrome tips.

IMG_20190928_194828_5.jpg


We made the car show! It stuck out like crazy. Id say 85% of the 300+ cars there were classics (1960s-1980s muscle cars), 10% were 1900-1950s, there was a couple new corvettes, mustangs,etc. And then there was the Mercedes, barely washed and turbo sticking out of the hood. Unfortunately I dont have any pictures from that show.

The issue with the turbo was it was way too big for the L67 to spool. I targeted 14-15psi. It would start to spool at 4k and wouldnt hit full boost until just after 5k. Then i would shift at 6k. So it was really fast....for a short period of time haha. I swapped to a 6662 turbo and it made all the difference. spool at 3.2k full boost before 4k and hold it all the way to red line. I think the way the turbo comes on softer is easier on the trans because the WC got hurt making less power with the blower and the NWC trans has survived perfectly so far on the turbo...knock on wood.

We took it to the Dubsinthetrees car show where it was more at home with the newer Euro tuners.
download_20191220_180331 (2).jpg

I work as a VW tech so I this show better than the classic car shows. I appreciate the classics and especially respect the builders of them but I have no want to build/own one. I grew up in the mid 90s, so those are the cars I grew up seeing. Thats when cars look the best imo, somewhere between the boxy 80's and the spaceship BS of today. After that last show, the car went away for the winter.

As of 3/29/20, it is apart getting a spring refresh. It is getting ARP studs, Intense stg 2 cam with 1.7 rockers and double roller timing chain. The heads got refreshed with 150lb valve springs, seals, and some very minor porting. Mostly just cleaning the imperfections and opening up the exhaust ports a little on the top. It should be running again in a week or two. The funny situation that I just got myself into, I traded the merc amg wheels for some deep dish 17s so i can lower the car more. I watch him remove them from a 2012 jetta with 5x112 lug patterm, that he drove 50 miles to get to the meeting point for the trade. watched him remove the factory lugs and note he doesnt have any wheel spacers or adapters. inspect the wheels, looked fine and have no bends. give him the merc wheels and head out. get back to the shop and try to test fit...weird they dont fit nicely on the studs...try another one...same thing. get out the lug pattern tool out and yup, they are 5x114.3. This dude drove on them! just sent the lug studs home! so now im in a pickle. i dont have wheels to fit the car, would like to not run adapters in i can help it. and the stockers dont clear the front 4 pot brakes. So im trying to decide if I should just get adapters to fit these wheels or order a set of the wheels I want in 16" and dont require adapters. The only reason im hesitant to spend 2k on wheels is how crazy everything is during this covid-19 economy. My VW dealer is still busy but idk for how long.

IMG_20190919_191855_5.jpg
 

v6buicks

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Oct 22, 2018
6,269
15,478
Franklin, IN
Real Name
Jon
Test fit the turbo manifolds. Had to delete to heater core lines because the charge pipe wanted to be there. of course, there was heat all summer and fall comes and it gets deleted.

I had the same issue with my future down pipe. Check out the link in my sig and go to page 10. There are adapters you can run from an H-body that should be able to route the heater hoses far enough out of the way. I have plenty of space now!
 

Moralescj14

Member
Sep 26, 2019
15
168
I pulled the rear subframe out and replaced all the control arms. Got the a fresh coat of paint, the Ultra Racing 19mm rear sway bar and poly bushing. While the rear end was out I welded the diff, flushed it and filled it with new fluid. ill need to change the fluid again after a few drives. For springs, i got w124 300d wagon Vogtland lowering springs and cut them down to the same free length as the cut factory springs.
IMG_20200315_135022_6.jpgIMG_20200315_150346_5.jpg

Check out the difference of the factory rear bar vs the UR 19mm bar. Factory is 12mm I believe.
IMG_20200315_131323_6.jpg

I ended up getting adapters for those rims and tossed them on. They stick out a lot which is perfect to fill the fender flares that are planned. The issue with the wheels is that they rub HARD without some extra clearance.
IMG_20200401_173433_5.jpgIMG_20200401_173451_5.jpg
I pulled off the fenders so it was at least able to be driven and found it was rubbing on the exhaust pipes at anything over half a turn. So....new exhaust set up! You can see how the exhaust is routed in the next picture.
IMG_20200404_174824_4.jpg

I removed the exhaust and cut the muffler off. Ordered a new straight through muffler and a couple 3inch bends from Summit. I had planned on trying to squeeze the downpipe under the passenger side manifold while staying out of the way of the steering idler arm on the passenger side. The was just enough clearance but it would make changing that bank of spark plugs a nightmare. Hood exit was easiest, so thats what i went with. Made a new wastegate tube to match.
IMG_20200411_184838_9.jpgIMG_20200412_125150_8.jpg

Next on my list is figuring out the fender flares and painting the car. I want to replace the hood because it has been cut up so much. Especially because there are areas of blank empty space from when the blower was on the car. im on the lookout! But first, the fender flares! I cut the front fenders first because i figured any mistakes and its a 75 dollar fender not the very hard to replace quarter panel. test fit and made sure the wheels clears nicely, then welded it on. Took a bunch of measurements and then duplicated it on the other side

IMG_20200412_142019_1.jpgIMG_20200412_144620_8.jpg

Covered it on both sides with fiberglass reinforced bondo. I am going to sand it down and then skim coat it with regular bondo. I decided to do many tack welds instead of stitch welding it on to keep heat down and try to minimize warping of the flat panels on the fenders. its on there with no flex so i think it should be fine. I dont have any pictures of the rear but i followed the same procedure, cut one side and mirror it on the other. I left extra clearance in the front and rear so i could have room for some meaty rubber. Currently there are 215/45r17 tires and i would like to fit either 255/40r17 square or 275/40r17 staggered in the rear.

IMG_20200412_171505_7.jpg

Well that brings things back up to date. Id like to get the car to primer in a week or two. I am also ordering a bunch of weatherpack connectors to clean up the ugly wiring because it pretty much unchanged from the s10 days. I hope everyone is staying safe and home if they can!

IMG_20200412_144625_4.jpg
 

Thread Info