BUILD K swap miata

General Information

Hello everyone,

I haven't posted in a while but I thought I'd share my winter project.

I have a 1995 Miata that will be getting the k24a2 out of a 2008 Acura TSX.

K power industries is local to IL and makes a package that includes most of what's needed.

Does it make sense monetarily? Probably not, but that's cars. Hopefully it will be greater than the sum of its parts.

So, I got the motor from a junkyard and started tearing it down to replace the oil pump and timing components. This was for pan clearance and just general maintenance.

The rsx type s oil pump can handle higher revs and the adaptor is for clearance as you will see later it will sit weird.





I ordered a new radiator and some new hoses. Gonna fix all the leaks before I stop driving it for the winter. Guess now's the time if I need a new radiator. At least the leak is slow too and it's not just dumping coolant.

The only other item on the docket is the throttle body. I think it is binding and I think that's been my issue with the car jerking this whole time.
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Well guess I do need new tires.

The brakes clear but man are they close.

PXL_20221110_221022455.jpgPXL_20221110_234528415.jpgPXL_20221110_234540843.jpgthrew the hardtop and winter tires on. Plan on fixing all the coolant leaks this winter. Need to reseal the rear water neck, potentially source new heater core pipes, and swap in that radiator.

Also threw winter tires on the outback I got them for a steal. Firestone winters with wheels for 400 bucks. They all have 12/32s.
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Turns out I'm just an idiot about the coolant leak. Clamps were a little loose on the radiator and thermo one needs tightening too. Might switch out the style of clamps.

Work's got me fucked up with all kinds of anxiety and shit. I bought that new radiator for nothing.

Just gonna have to resell on fb and eat a couple dollars. Returning would be pointless after shipping and restock fee.
If you're pushing it around the road course I would probably look into replacing an original radiator. Deposits Etc do buildup on the inside of the tubes and in between the air fins and reduce Cooling....
It's got an upgraded all aluminum radiator that was put in a year ago. I was just being an idiot and ignoring the basics of checking and starting with the easiest shit first.
Been too lazy/cold to swap out all my coolant clamps.

Been talking with the guy who helped me over the phone with my wiring and shit a long time ago. Apparently, he's close to the guys that make the supercharger I want so he's seen the quality and build firsthand. He highly recommended it.

We talked about what trans to get and shit. I may just pick up miata 6spd and then a 3.63 rear end. I can get a big pulley make like 300 to 350 and not have to do a shit ton of fab or parts buying to replace the trans and diff with non Mazda stuff.

Assuming you won't drag race it, the 5 speed can't handle that much power on a road course/Auto-X?
The supercharger may save some of the shock over the turbo, but the 6spd is still a better choice when getting more torque
i thought k miata recommended a bmw one
They do, but if I'm not going all out this would be way easier.

Either way it's all a pipe dream still. I'll be moving in August/September and I'm not even sure if I'll have a garage then. All up in the air right now. At the moment all I plan is 200 tw tires and keep saving my duckets.
I finally touched the car again with the warm weather this weekend,.

I replaced all the clamps that had the stupid plastic wing nut style knobs on them with regular hex screw type clamps. I tightened a few others.

A lot of my stuttering issues have been the throttle body binding at slow throttle input. I finally took it out, looked at it with a light behind it and just very slowly dremeled a little material here and there until i could just barely see a ring of light around the whole blade.

I still have that super slow coolant leak at the back of the head, I'm just gonna slather some rtv on a finger and wipe it around the waterneck piece. I really don't want to take it off. It's in a tight location and I don't want to empy coolant because I'm lazy and work has been kicking my ass. I can barely manage to do the easy stuff.

So, plans right now are maybe get that rtv on tomorrow. Do an oil change before I start driving it for the season again, and get those 200 tw tires. I'm leaning towards the rt660s. They are real popular at autox.
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I can't remember if I ever mentioned it, but I noticed during spirited driving "ie power shifting at 8k" that my 2-3 shift was hard to make. And I learned that these cars are notorious for having the trans twist ever so slightly under power.

I ordered a brace that will link the diff and trans brace to the rear subframe so we'll see if that helps. Even if it doesn't, this brace will help with wheel hop and protect the diff arm from snapping.


Something more I'm dreading is I should probably helicoil one one of my sparkplug holes. I may just pay a shop to do it. It practically ejected on me late into the season last year. The coil pack was basically keeping it in place with the tiny bolt holding that down.
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Mar 27, 2008
Was nodding off watching a movie at my friend's place and drove home and now I'm wide fucking awake. Fuck it, popped the hood on the Miata and finger banged that water neck with rtv and we'll see how the leak is after that.

I threw the hardtop on a few weeks ago and it's just weird seeing it like that. It looks like a totally different car.

View attachment 145948
Looks like a picture of a matchbox, but car is bad ass
Goddamn 40s and 50s the next few days.

Threw on a tow hook. Shit is dusty.


I wanted to drive it so bad, but the roads by me are salty AF still.

Turns out the hardware for my brace was incorrect they sent me more wrong hardware. The original was an Allen key bolt to fit snug inside the brace these were just regular bolts that needed a washer to just barely catch the lip of the brace.

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Must've not closed the door or something. Battery puttered out while trying to restart it today.

I loctited the bolts on the shifter because they have backed out before, and that brace will add nvh.

I finally got the correct hardware for the diff brace sent to me after two tries lol.

Still can't put it on until I talk with my exhaust guy. I was planning on putting on a bigger resonator anyway.
As always I saw something cool but dont really need. I follow this fabricator on fb. I believe they're also are the one who powder coated my valve cover. Like the company I bought parts from subs out to this guy.

But he makes some bars for the front and back of the car that include new jack points which would make my life far easier. With the front tubular subframe jacking up the front never feels great, and it would just be nice on the rear, but I might not be able to do the rear with that big ass muffler.
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