🔧 BUILD Just V8 things in WNY - From FRC's to M3's to LQ4 E39's O MAI
- Thread starter nsogiba
- Start date
Got the tranny bellhousing all welded up by a local guy. Before it went back in I got my long awaited Circle D 3200 budget converter filled up and installed.
Once I got the fluid level figured out I took it out and WOW what a difference even non-turbo. The motor flashes right up into the torque band and really gets the heavy car moving quick even at part throttle. This thing is going to be fun with double the power. One of my biggest gripes with my old sloppy turbo Silverado (4.8/7875 and 4.10s) was that it was a total dog off the line even with a 3200 converter. I think it was a combination of a heavier chassis, much less displacement and a weak timing curve (my fault).
Before I get the turbo kit started I wanted to iron out a couple other small complaints I had with the driving experience. First off was the total lack of gauges; since the 2011 Crown Vic cluster operates on a CANBUS network off the Ford PCM, it is totally dead with the car moving. My solution was to source a used Mercury Marauder cluster as it incorporates a tach and uses traditional analog signals to drive the gauges and dummy lights.
Using a GM PCM bench flash harness as a power supply to light up the cluster once I got the pinout figured out.
I also updated the mileage in the cluster to match the actual chassis mileage (156,xxx)
The other gripe that I had was the Ford column shifter being kinda wacky in how it shifted the 80E. It “worked” but wasn’t really accurate since the Ford shifter uses a PRND21 pattern and GM uses the PRND321. I spent last Saturday morning at the local junkyard looking for GM center consoles/shifters that might work. Initially I was hoping to get a Trailblazer or GMC Jimmy unit, but all of those were trashed. The ticket ended up being a 2004-2008 Grand Prix, which has a “utilitarian” look to it, the right shift pattern, and a SUPER long shifter cable to work with almost any swap.
Mocked up
Ugly but functional bracket to mount the cable to the trans
Quick spritz of paint in my professional paint booth
Finally, underhood shot of the current state. I also picked up a truck intake to replace the van intake since it has a threaded boss for the beauty cover which I like to run.
I need to finish splicing the cluster harness and bolt down the shifter/console as well as connect the shift cable. There is also an annoying oil leak I can’t seem to find, got it all cleaned up and will try to find the source by running it on the lift.
Once I got the fluid level figured out I took it out and WOW what a difference even non-turbo. The motor flashes right up into the torque band and really gets the heavy car moving quick even at part throttle. This thing is going to be fun with double the power. One of my biggest gripes with my old sloppy turbo Silverado (4.8/7875 and 4.10s) was that it was a total dog off the line even with a 3200 converter. I think it was a combination of a heavier chassis, much less displacement and a weak timing curve (my fault).
Before I get the turbo kit started I wanted to iron out a couple other small complaints I had with the driving experience. First off was the total lack of gauges; since the 2011 Crown Vic cluster operates on a CANBUS network off the Ford PCM, it is totally dead with the car moving. My solution was to source a used Mercury Marauder cluster as it incorporates a tach and uses traditional analog signals to drive the gauges and dummy lights.
Using a GM PCM bench flash harness as a power supply to light up the cluster once I got the pinout figured out.
I also updated the mileage in the cluster to match the actual chassis mileage (156,xxx)
The other gripe that I had was the Ford column shifter being kinda wacky in how it shifted the 80E. It “worked” but wasn’t really accurate since the Ford shifter uses a PRND21 pattern and GM uses the PRND321. I spent last Saturday morning at the local junkyard looking for GM center consoles/shifters that might work. Initially I was hoping to get a Trailblazer or GMC Jimmy unit, but all of those were trashed. The ticket ended up being a 2004-2008 Grand Prix, which has a “utilitarian” look to it, the right shift pattern, and a SUPER long shifter cable to work with almost any swap.
Mocked up
Ugly but functional bracket to mount the cable to the trans
Quick spritz of paint in my professional paint booth
Finally, underhood shot of the current state. I also picked up a truck intake to replace the van intake since it has a threaded boss for the beauty cover which I like to run.
I need to finish splicing the cluster harness and bolt down the shifter/console as well as connect the shift cable. There is also an annoying oil leak I can’t seem to find, got it all cleaned up and will try to find the source by running it on the lift.
Forgot to post this update - it actually occurred in June 2020.
The M3 originally came bone stock mechanically, and like many other enthusiasts I always felt the exhaust was a bit neutered. When a deal came up locally for an inexpensive 4 pipe OEM modded catback, I jumped on it. The only catch was that it had been welded directly to the prior owner's x-pipe and had no tips installed, so it needed some repair.
Step 1: Remove OEM stock catback
Comparing OEM stocker with modded 4 pipe (no tips)
Yup, that won't bolt up.
One-tack-at-a-time MIG welds indicating this had likely been done by a DIYer or an exhaust shop. I'm no better of a welder myself, until I pick up a TIG! Still cannot verify what's inside, but based on the LOUD volume with test pipes, it's the most aggressive variation.
I was happy to see that at least there were no soot patterns around the seams, so the welds were strong and leak free.
The biggest problem was the missing ball flanges, shown here on the OEM stock exhaust. The internet would have you believe these are bespoke German flanges, but I thought I had seen these somewhere before in my other builds...
Sure enough, I picked up a set of ball joint flanges from Summit Racing, and they were a direct fit. Doesn't get any closer than this.
Here's the part number for the male/female combination in case you need to replace any part of your midpipe to catback connection:
Trimmed to fit my application:
No pics of the welded up finished product, but they looked pretty close to the stock exhaust.
Rather than trying to lift the heavy exhaust alone to get the hanger bolts started, I used a trick I learned a couple years ago...instead of bringing the exhaust to the car, bring the car to the exhaust.
Heave exhaust onto heavy duty cart:
Lower car onto exhaust, start hanger nuts, then simply lift the car back up
I also welded in new universal tips, 3.5" in diameter if I recall. Here they are just mocked up. I really need to get pictures and sound clips of the final setup.
The M3 originally came bone stock mechanically, and like many other enthusiasts I always felt the exhaust was a bit neutered. When a deal came up locally for an inexpensive 4 pipe OEM modded catback, I jumped on it. The only catch was that it had been welded directly to the prior owner's x-pipe and had no tips installed, so it needed some repair.
Step 1: Remove OEM stock catback
Comparing OEM stocker with modded 4 pipe (no tips)
Yup, that won't bolt up.
One-tack-at-a-time MIG welds indicating this had likely been done by a DIYer or an exhaust shop. I'm no better of a welder myself, until I pick up a TIG! Still cannot verify what's inside, but based on the LOUD volume with test pipes, it's the most aggressive variation.
I was happy to see that at least there were no soot patterns around the seams, so the welds were strong and leak free.
The biggest problem was the missing ball flanges, shown here on the OEM stock exhaust. The internet would have you believe these are bespoke German flanges, but I thought I had seen these somewhere before in my other builds...
Sure enough, I picked up a set of ball joint flanges from Summit Racing, and they were a direct fit. Doesn't get any closer than this.
Here's the part number for the male/female combination in case you need to replace any part of your midpipe to catback connection:
Trimmed to fit my application:
No pics of the welded up finished product, but they looked pretty close to the stock exhaust.
Rather than trying to lift the heavy exhaust alone to get the hanger bolts started, I used a trick I learned a couple years ago...instead of bringing the exhaust to the car, bring the car to the exhaust.
Heave exhaust onto heavy duty cart:
Lower car onto exhaust, start hanger nuts, then simply lift the car back up
I also welded in new universal tips, 3.5" in diameter if I recall. Here they are just mocked up. I really need to get pictures and sound clips of the final setup.
Crown Vic content:
Spent some late nights after the baby went to bed and finished up an actual exhaust the connects to the stocker. Nice and quiet now, although I have a few small exhaust leaks I need to chase down. The good news is that it's so much nicer to drive now, and does a pretty good job wasting tires on only 8-9 lbs. I am still on 93 pump with about 14-15 degrees timing at this level. The response is pretty good and once the loudvalve opens it's a party.
It needs a good wash and maybe even a polish to get rid of some of the water spots it had from sitting for a couple years.
Wheel-well self-rustproofing application
The bad news is that it doesn't want to make more than 9ish lbs. I started to slowly turn up the boost controller but ran out of daylight and didn't want to play with it at night in case something blew up. It may just need some more turns on the controller or I may have a boost leak somewhere. Thinking that's not the case since it held up to 14psi a few weeks ago, but we'll see. I am also thinking I'm going to get bored of pump gas power levels, so I'm already thinking about adding flex.
Spent some late nights after the baby went to bed and finished up an actual exhaust the connects to the stocker. Nice and quiet now, although I have a few small exhaust leaks I need to chase down. The good news is that it's so much nicer to drive now, and does a pretty good job wasting tires on only 8-9 lbs. I am still on 93 pump with about 14-15 degrees timing at this level. The response is pretty good and once the loudvalve opens it's a party.
It needs a good wash and maybe even a polish to get rid of some of the water spots it had from sitting for a couple years.
Wheel-well self-rustproofing application
The bad news is that it doesn't want to make more than 9ish lbs. I started to slowly turn up the boost controller but ran out of daylight and didn't want to play with it at night in case something blew up. It may just need some more turns on the controller or I may have a boost leak somewhere. Thinking that's not the case since it held up to 14psi a few weeks ago, but we'll see. I am also thinking I'm going to get bored of pump gas power levels, so I'm already thinking about adding flex.
Testing out the setup on 9 lbs, waiting for the rain to dry up to turn it up to 12-14 and do some more tuning. I also need to finish up the cluster as it's annoying driving around with no speedo or tach. After that, it should be ready for state inspection...
Over the weekend I took a quick trip along the lake to Cleveland with a friend and his E39 M5 to get away from the hectic pace of life. Put about 500 miles on the car (all Thruway there, all back roads via PA Allegheny State Forest on the way back). Averaged about 18-22mpg pushing the car and with a significant aerodynamic disadvantage...
Doing touristy things:
Tucked away underneath the hotel for the night.
The next morning we made a quick pit stop in Mentor Ohio to pick up a new toy. Covid-based demand for outdoor equipment has forced people to ask outrageous prices for used kayaks locally and they are unavailable locally new, so this was the closest location that had the model I wanted. Enter the M3 truck:
Aside from wind noise you wouldn't even know it was there, and rock solid even up to triple digit speeds.
We wound our way through the Ohio back roads and entered NW PA, crossing the Pymatuning Reservoir...
...and stopping for a quick break at the Kinzua Dam.
The car performed flawlessly; my only complaint was that the exhaust droned a bit at highway speeds. I really need to start that vacuum cutout project...
Doing touristy things:
Tucked away underneath the hotel for the night.
The next morning we made a quick pit stop in Mentor Ohio to pick up a new toy. Covid-based demand for outdoor equipment has forced people to ask outrageous prices for used kayaks locally and they are unavailable locally new, so this was the closest location that had the model I wanted. Enter the M3 truck:
Aside from wind noise you wouldn't even know it was there, and rock solid even up to triple digit speeds.
We wound our way through the Ohio back roads and entered NW PA, crossing the Pymatuning Reservoir...
...and stopping for a quick break at the Kinzua Dam.
The car performed flawlessly; my only complaint was that the exhaust droned a bit at highway speeds. I really need to start that vacuum cutout project...
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