• đź’ˇ Fun fact. Whenever you start a thread, TCG Mechanic 5000 (our AI bot) will reply to you to start helping. It doesn't know everything and it will struggle with more complex questions but it can get the thread going and provide valuable information. You can choose to disable it prior to submitting a thread.

If You Had A Sbc 400 to build

DynaSlim

TCG Elite Member
Aug 13, 2012
5,538
18
Plainfield
I'm looking for set up's.
If you had a good shape stock sbc 400 how would you build it?

I was thinking bore to 406 use the sbc350 size crank and 6.0 rods, afr 195cc heads with pistons to make 11.0.1 compression. A cam around 270 duration 550 lift. Afr composite intake with Holley 750DP. Forged bottom end of course. Should make about 500HP on pump gas right?

But how would you build it?
 

wikidblus10

Regular
Aug 20, 2010
129
0
elgin
First off if you had a 400 block, 4.125" bore, and put a 350 crank, 3.480" stroke you would get 377 cid. Plus 350 crank journals are smaller than the 400. So if you only have a block i would go with either a stock stroke 400 crank, 3.750" stroke, 414 with a 3.875" stroke or 427 with a 4.000" stroke. It all depends how deep your pockets are. As for compression it all depends on what you are doing with it. Street.....10:1 max. Street/strip 11:1 race how high do you wanna go?
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
TCG Premium
Jun 16, 2007
32,540
15,849
hangover park IL
i dont think ill ever get rid of my 4 bolt 511 casting 400....so hard to find with good virgin bores....and no cracks

if your not gonna rev the snot out of it...stick with the 400 mains for lower cost.
those 350 mains spacers are expensive for what amounts to a slight reduction in bearing surface speed

dont go 60 over if you can avoid it...
 

wikidblus10

Regular
Aug 20, 2010
129
0
elgin
Spend the money and check for cracks now before you spend the money and throw it away
Depending on the year in the castings some of them can be very prone to crack
I got mine from a 72 Monte Carlo with 85000 miles on it....
spent 400 just to make sure everything was good with mag and dye inspection

Yes definitely a very good idea. You don't wanna be pulling the engine out because you skipped on something or went cheap
 

79vette

Wrenching
Feb 10, 2009
970
42
Batavia
Don't bore it if you don't have too, your not gaining much to lose the bore strength. keep the stock crank, go bigger with the heads, look for 230 runners or bigger. solid roller is a huge plus. make sure your valve train is up for it though. and you are not going use 6.0L rods, your using 6.000'' inch rods for a SBC.
 

Oh Noez

Addict
Oct 12, 2012
769
2
If youre looking for 500HP/500TQ at the crank...

Take the 400 block...

Dont go over .40 over on the bore
Plug the steam holes
use a 400 crank. eagle makes a nice piece
6" rods, eagle again.
IMO i would use a 215 or 220 Dart head since youll be keeping the rpms below 6500
Vic Jr intake (the afr piece is nice but not worth the money in this application)
Hyd flat tappet cam (something along the 305H but have it ground on a 4/7 swap)
Dont need to go crazy with compression, 10:1 will be fine.

Youll have a dead nuts reliable (and LOW maintenance) combo that you can drive everywhere and runs beautiful on 93octane.

Just my 2cents.
 

Oh Noez

Addict
Oct 12, 2012
769
2
Plug the stream holes? That's new to me I've always heard about people drilling them out for better flow.

Plugging them doesnt affect cooling. It strengthens the deck and cylinder wall since those steam holes are prone to cracking.

It doesnt really add a lot of cost to machine work that youll be doing to the block either.


Not sure why anyone would drill them larger, they are already very close to the cylinder walls.
 

DynaSlim

TCG Elite Member
Aug 13, 2012
5,538
18
Plainfield
Here's the foundation
20130603_153511.jpg
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info