• đź’ˇ Fun fact. Whenever you start a thread, TCG Mechanic 5000 (our AI bot) will reply to you to start helping. It doesn't know everything and it will struggle with more complex questions but it can get the thread going and provide valuable information. You can choose to disable it prior to submitting a thread.

Here is a good Question for you guys....

Zack

4 Doors 4 Life
Mar 21, 2004
6,297
20
NW Indiana
Im starting on yanking the Cobra engine tonight, but realize I have a little hurdle in front of me....
The car has the Kenny Brown Strut Tower Brace on it, which eliminates the Caster/Camber Plates. It has to come out to remove the engine, but will throw the alignment off if I remove it.

How the hell am I gonna keep everything from moving around when I take this brace off? Thanks in avance! :)
 

01bluesnake

D Mark Performance
TCG Sponsor
Jul 8, 2009
3,335
7,294
If you can put a jack under one control arm at a time to keep from the strut coming out , loosen the strut bar nuts, remove the nuts and then lift up the strut bar on the supported side and thread on a nut or two back on the plate to keep the strut from dropping, go to the next side and repeat and you can remove the strut bar at that time.
 

FuelSlut

FK RED STAR
Nov 9, 2005
1,969
0
Im starting on yanking the Cobra engine tonight, but realize I have a little hurdle in front of me....
The car has the Kenny Brown Strut Tower Brace on it, which eliminates the Caster/Camber Plates. It has to come out to remove the engine, but will throw the alignment off if I remove it.

How the hell am I gonna keep everything from moving around when I take this brace off? Thanks in avance! :)

It probably will throw off the camber all together. I think you should ditch that brace all together and go and get yourself some mm castercamber plates. This way you will never have to deal with this again.
 

Zack

4 Doors 4 Life
Mar 21, 2004
6,297
20
NW Indiana
If you can put a jack under one control arm at a time to keep from the strut coming out , loosen the strut bar nuts, remove the nuts and then lift up the strut bar on the supported side and thread on a nut or two back on the plate to keep the strut from dropping, go to the next side and repeat and you can remove the strut bar at that time.

Beautiful, thanks.
 

Zack

4 Doors 4 Life
Mar 21, 2004
6,297
20
NW Indiana
who cares?? The strut is bolted to the spindle, so itll stay stationary on the bottom.. unless you got something funny going on, i have been doing this with my own race car for 15yrs..

I see your point, but there is play in the steering rack which could affect alignment if the assembly 'twists'

BTW good morning BOB! :dancenana:
 

Bob_Kurgan

Flyin_Hawaiin
Feb 16, 2005
3,013
0
I see your point, but there is play in the steering rack which could affect alignment if the assembly 'twists'

BTW good morning BOB! :dancenana:

no, your spindle connects to your outer tie rod ends... believe me, this works and you shouldnt have any "play"... ive been doing this for YEARS.. the only thing your c/c plates SHOULD affect is caster and camber and a LITTLE toe... you adjust your outer tie rod ends for 99% of your steering.. if you put the center of the strut back to where it started, your c/c will be VERY CLOSE..

and BTW, good morning back!
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info