🔧 BUILD GTPpower's 05 F-350 6.0 PSD

[GTPpower]

Got it off. I had to cut the bolts on the carrier bearing because the nuts broke free from their little anti-rotation clip.

Got one ujoint out and replaced.






I'm on the middle now and it's definitely giving me some problems. Is it OK to use heat on these?

 

[DEEZUZ]

I mean... I don't, but as long as you aren't turning it orange then beating on it, it may be fine..?

 

[GTPpower]

Got the middle out. A few harder hits with the sledge hammer took care of it. The one broken cap had no needle bearings left in it.



Got the front ujoint our too. Napa gave me a slightly different ujoint for the front, and I'm trying to decide if I should use it. I'm pretty sure all three were the same from the factory. All stamped Spicer 209.

Also, I got everything off the carrier except the inner race. Had to cut the outer apart. I don't think there was anything wrong with the bearing, but it does look like the seals were leaking on it.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Yup. Like I said before you pulled it apart. That busted cap was 100% your problem all along.

Nice.

 

[sktchy]

Yeah idk if it's right but I'm not scared to put heat on them. Jeep guys tack weld the cups into the yoke so they don't have to worry bout the clips popping out on them.

 

[sktchy]

Also that straight angle die grinder is life. I use mine to as a tire buffer alot.

 

[GTPpower]

Yeah idk if it's right but I'm not scared to put heat on them. Jeep guys tack weld the cups into the yoke so they don't have to worry bout the clips popping out on them.

I was about ready to use heat, but I took a couple big hits with the sledge hammer and it broke free.

I will have to use heat to get the carrier bearing off though.

 

[sktchy]

I was about ready to use heat, but I took a couple big hits with the sledge hammer and it broke free.

I will have to use heat to get the carrier bearing off though.

Yeah it'll be fine. I got pissed and went for heat on the bottom of a strut in an escape the other day and caught myself as soon as I lit the torch up like duh retard shits full of compressed gas and oil so I end up just beating the dog shit out of them and had to use the weight of the thing to get the new ones to drop down and seat correctly. 3 hr job turns into 8 thanks to our lovely road salt.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

Man, if you don't have a press A horrible freight one is well worth the $200ish to get. They were quite a bit cheaper back when, but what wasn't? I did strut bushings on my Volvo and it paid for its self in that alone.

 

[sktchy]

Man, if you don't have a press A horrible freight one is well worth the $200ish to get. They were quite a bit cheaper back when, but what wasn't? I did strut bushings on my Volvo and it paid for its self in that alone.

That depends on what kind of press. In my case a set of those chincy spring compressors would've helped a lot until it came time to put them back in. That and these newer car rust sooooo much worse than the other stuff it's insane. Shitll be 3 years old and the bottom looks like it's been sitting next to the Titanic.

 

[GTPpower]

Man, if you don't have a press A horrible freight one is well worth the $200ish to get. They were quite a bit cheaper back when, but what wasn't? I did strut bushings on my Volvo and it paid for its self in that alone.

I would buy one in a heartbeat if I had more room. I would use it so much.

 

[GTPpower]

Cleaned up the rust on the end of the shaft, heated the race and I just pulled it off with my hand.



Cleaned it up and the new one went on easy with a few taps.






Is it OK to use wheel bearing grease on the splines where the two shafts slide together?

 

[sktchy]

Yeppp

 

[GTPpower]

Got it all back together.




And broke my m12 ratchet. I guess don't use this for tightening.



Test drive was vibration free. Except now tow/haul is flashing and a check engine light is on. It skips 2nd gear and won't shift Into 6th, just like it usually does when it throws the normal codes for solenoid B. That never turns on the engine light though.

P0700 is what tripped it. I noticed some spotting underneath it since it's been sitting in the same spot for a couple weeks.

Is there some kind of seal in this connection that could be causing my issue?

 

[sktchy]

That p0700 is a generic and you need something that can dig in deeper.

Throw that old style m12 in the trash and get a fuel.

 

[DEEZUZ]

Yea. 10mm. Back the plug out. Let's see.

 

[GTPpower]

I will try to get that done tomorrow.


This seems like a pretty good deal.

Milwaukee M12 FUEL 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless 3/8 in.Cordless Ratchet w/4.0 Ah Starter Kit 48-59-2440-2557-20 - The Home Depot

The Milwaukee M12 FUEL 3/8 in. Ratchet is the first cordless tool that provides both the torque and compact size to replace pneumatic ratchets in the industry. This cordless ratchet has up to 55 ft./lbs.

www.homedepot.com

 

[DEEZUZ]

I don't have any 3/8s ratchets except the 90 impact.

All my ratchets are 1/4

 

[sktchy]

That's the one I upgraded to and I love it especially with a high output battery. But you gotta watch it on small bolts and the head is a lot bigger than the original so it does have its downsides. The extended reach is looking pretty sexy right now too but I'm not super into proprietary sockets for it.

 

[sktchy]

And yes 1/4 gets used a lot more but the 3/8 is real nice for doing stuff the 1/4 won't.

 

[GTPpower]

Well now that I think about it, I can probably rob parts off the other one I broke and fix this one.

 

[GTPpower]

I've gotten those bottom two codes on and off the whole time I've owned it.

I pulled the wiring harness off on the passenger side, and that connector has fluid in it. Is there an oring in the valve body that has failed and is letting fluid in?

 

[DEEZUZ]

Pretty sure that warrant a pan drop and valve body drop

 

[GTPpower]

That's what I've been reading. What kind of gaskets do I need for this?

 

[DEEZUZ]

I may remember to get them tomorrow if you don't Google it first