GI 2000 GTP that runs low 12's

Thinking of selling my car to move on to something a little more normal.

Before anyone freaks....remember, I have been using this as my DD for 8 years. There's nothing major wrong with it other than age and milage. I'm just sick of it, and want to do something different.

I may sell it "as-is"

It needs new front hubs and 1 axle, but drives OK. The front struts could use a changing, but overall the suspension is good. The axle works fine, but the boot is torn (May just want to replace the boot, but I will normally just replace the whole axle). The Hubs don't hum yet, but my ABS light will intermittantly come on (that coupled with the milage since I last replaced them leads me to think they should be swapped out)

The engine runs like a champ, but it does have some quirks. The front cover is leaking, and needs new gaskets. The motor never had a leak until I put the new timing chain on 2 months ago, and I suspect it's the seal at the harmonic balencer. I also replaced the power steering pump when I put in the new TC and tensioner.

Car has no emmissions equipment. No PCV (well externally sumped anyway) no Cat, no EVAP, no EGR, but has passed IL inspections w/o an issue. I have all the pieces other than the cat to put it back to stock.

Car has been hacked up in a few places (tirewell flipped for muffler clearance, some custom brackets, yada yada) all can be converted back, if you need to.

I have a whole extra brake system, the bumper supports (not on the car)...a bunch of extra stuff. Even an extra L36 block if you want...

145K miles!!! and trust me the body ain't perfect (hard sell huh?)

You can buy the whole deal for $4500, part it out yourself. Car is fast as ***, or just hustle with it. Car is trapping 115 right now on the stock bottom end and cam...idles like stock. (and gets 30 MPG hwy)

I'm pondering parting out the mods for it then selling the car whole, or just parting everything on it. The car is capable of 11.70's as it sits if you can get the launch right. Car has been a trooper over the years and have had no major issues. The block, heads, trans are all original and have never been out of the car or serviced. The deepest the motor has been into is replacing the LIM gaskets with aluminum ones.

I have some vids on myspace and facebook, as well as other that are on youtube from other people. Car Dynoed 293 to the tire on a Mustang dyno with full exhaust. With the dynojet correction puts it at 328 to the tire (#1 HP record m90/stock cam), unplug the exhaust and throw it on the dynojet and it will probably pull about 340hp.
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MODS ;will be hard to remember everything, but:

HAI with big K&N

Custom LS1 TB set-up with adapter and body blended into SC. LS1 TB is epoxied and smoothed internally and has the thinner L32 throttle blade. Has been modified so that the PCV functions normally.

Ported SC inlet/outlet. This was a custom job by me, it's perfect. The blower just got new bearings and rotors 6 months ago.

WBS IC, this was a pre-production unit. I modified it to have the PCV work like stock. I also opened up the inlet and outlet to match the blower/lim. The core in the basket is a ZZP one. The original was trashed, so I got the new core about a year back. The IC system has a 10GPM pump, and I have a Griffin 2 row racing radiator as my FMHE. It measures something like 31 x 12.5" ...it's something like $300 or something from what I recall.

I have a custom extra idler system along with a custom pulley set-up for the SC belt.

Motor mounts are all custom fabbed.

Modded S&S headers, 2.5" stainless exhaust to f-body muffler

LIM is port matched and polished.

Accel wires

relocated the coils because of the custom engine mounts.

Custom fuel rails

57# injectors

MSD BAP

Walbro pump

smaller brake booster

custom lower control arms

grand am brakes

modified trailing arm mounts

AC delete

Bigger engine radiator / bigger internal trans cooler

Shift kit

external PCV with monitoring guage and oil seperator

1.91 modified stock rockers

AFPR

2.6/2.7/2.8 MPS

GMPP lowering springs / KYB struts

Any rust Ron?

The leading edge of the hood is starting to get it pretty bad. Right under the gas door there is a small bubble that hasn't flaked off yet...that's about it for what's visible. On the pass side strut tower to firewall there is a pretty good spot that I routinely paint over, as well as a spot in the trunk on the driver's side strut tower.

Car is pretty clean overall, but it is 8 years old so there are some dings and imperfections. The worse one is by the pass side headlight. I backed into the car with my wife's old Pacifica. I replaced the light and corner, the bumper popped right back but the paint is spiderwebbed up pretty well there, and the fender popped back out, but needs a little more TLC to be right on.

Overall, it's not bad for it's age and how little effort I put in to appearance over the years. Somebody handy with all things body related could get this thing to be a looker without trying too hard. I used to to auto body so I have a pretty good grasp of the condition. If I were redoing the car I would definately replace the hood and front bumper skin, everything else would be easy for prep.

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Pics of some of the custom parts here:http://www.clubgp.com/newforum/tm.a...lded&language=single&tmode=&smode=&s=#4463219
 
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Mike K

TCG Elite Member
Apr 11, 2008
13,214
2,586
Maybe if you came more often other then when someone says something bad about ya, you could be part of the crazy big family. Just a suggestion.
Without trying to sound pretentious, if I did that with every forum that asked me to I wouldn't have any time in the day... I'm going to swap this one for ILGPC in my favorites list and maybe we'll see if that triggers my brain to start visiting more often...
 

Ron Vogel

TCG Elite Member
Jul 12, 2007
5,175
4,286
Aurora
Real Name
Ron Vogel
i asked how the interior was...Ron wanna trade for my GTP?

No trades, looking at new rides.

Interior is good and bad. The bad is the pillars/dash bezel/console top. I painted them black and I hate them. All the seats are good, driver's seat is not too bad considering the milage. Carpet is cleaned once a year, floormats are GM. Visors are missing.

The driver's power seat cradle has been removed for a mount I made that is 28 lbs lighter, but I still have all the parts and it's an easy swap.

I actually just got offered $5k from a Chevy dealership, but I turned them down (plus I think the guy was full of crap anyway). I'd rather see the car stay mostly intact first.
 

EmersonHart13

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Jul 18, 2007
54,250
22,438
No trades, looking at new rides.

Interior is good and bad. The bad is the pillars/dash bezel/console top. I painted them black and I hate them. All the seats are good, driver's seat is not too bad considering the milage. Carpet is cleaned once a year, floormats are GM. Visors are missing.

The driver's power seat cradle has been removed for a mount I made that is 28 lbs lighter, but I still have all the parts and it's an easy swap.

I actually just got offered $5k from a Chevy dealership, but I turned them down (plus I think the guy was full of crap anyway). I'd rather see the car stay mostly intact first.

Ron from your experience under the power seat is it possible to lower it. Im tall and my seat is high and i hate it.

Thanks...
 

Ron Vogel

TCG Elite Member
Jul 12, 2007
5,175
4,286
Aurora
Real Name
Ron Vogel
Are you still gonna be around, or you giving up on the whole scene?

I want something quiet and comfy to drive. I commute about 70 miles a day.

I also want another bike. I'm making it up as I go along, but for right now I want to get out of the GP. Doesn't mean I'm doing anything but getting a different car.
 

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