Fuel pressure Guage?

DynaSlim

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I have a mechanical fuel gauge now but I can only view it when under the hood. I want to be able to watch my fuel pressure while I'm driving but I'm having a hard time figuring out what kind of electric sensor I could use to tell the electric gauge my pressures. Would a oil pressure sensor work? I'm looking for hopefully something that will screw into my current gauge location then run a wire to the new gauge mounted in operators view. Can some one anyone help me please?
 

DynaSlim

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Thanks. So pretty much need to do this setup to keep a spot open for the return line then.
 

DynaSlim

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Question, that part is pretty pricey without buying the braided line. If I was to keep the gauge under the bonnet would you think a 1/8 male barbed fitting in the original gauge fitting on the main fuel line after regulator, then rubber hose to barbed 1/8 female fitting, so the gauge can screw into, would work Alright?

I just want the gauge to be visible from the cockpit so probably Mount it under the cowl.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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if you think a small piece of braided stainless line and an isolator is expensive. .. you probably would really hate how expensive a car that is burning to the ground while spraying burning fuel on yer windshield and you as ya exit the car.

forget the parachute that you won't need for 10+ years and get the proper parts... as well as replacing all your other rubber line with real hose.
 

DynaSlim

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Not sure what's bad about rubber fuel line? Factory's still use rubber fuel line right off the assembly line. And the shooting fuel out thing you're getting at. Umm that's what a cutoff switch is for.

I think you're just being a little paranoid. So I'm going to assume my theory on this setup will work just fine.

Unless..... You might think the pressure wouldn't be accurate?
That was my only concern, if the pressure would still read fine.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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tell me your you think I'm a little paranoid when you're on the side of the highway roasting marshmallows.

Oems haven't used rubber hose since like 97. Its all steel and high pressure nylon nowadays

ethanol containing fuels do not like it and you can't get reinforced hose smaller than 1/4" id.

but no I'm mentioning the rubber hose because as soon as you go to a drag strip to run your car and they see more than 12 inches of rubber hose on it they're definitely not going to let you run your car
 

Ear Rak

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tell me your you think I'm a little paranoid when you're on the side of the highway roasting marshmallows.

Oems haven't used rubber hose since like 97. Its all steel and high pressure nylon nowadays

ethanol containing fuels do not like it and you can't get reinforced hose smaller than 1/4" id.

but no I'm mentioning the rubber hose because as soon as you go to a drag strip to run your car and they see more than 12 inches of rubber hose on it they're definitely not going to let you run your car
Stop giving him advice and let him burn his car to the ground already.
 

lastls1

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His build threads bring the lulz. I cannot wait to see this thing when it's "done" lol
 

DynaSlim

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The only track that won't let it on it for sure route 66 and I don't care for that yuppie place. And to your reinforced hose thinking, just so you know I was still going to use 3/8 id hose for the gauge run. Now to your ethanol theory, does c12 contain ethanol, does sunco 110? Cause that's all I'm running since you were so concerned. You say 97 they stopped using rubber fuel lines, ok well aren't there more cars on the road born before that date then their is after, and don't they run just fine on pump gas?

I got this brah!

Now can you actually help with your smart ass comments instead of critiquing everything I do.

Do you think the line pressure if ran like I last stated would be enough to get a good reading on the fuel gauge?
 

lastls1

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Why can't you just redo metal lines? Mold them and run them yourself like techs do when brake lines rot away? Why do you always have to do everything the hard or questionable way? People here do not take you or any of ur builds seriously because of this.

.................. Brah
 
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Turbocharged400sbc

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as soon as Byron Great Lakes or hell even no limit Reese Way won't let your ass run with three feet of rubber hose on a fuel gauge duck taped to your hood with 40 feet of hose underneath it zip tied.

I'm trying to steer you away from rubber hose because it's not the best choice. the money you're spending on it would be better spent on metal lines. 3/8ths reinforced rubber hose collapses to a small id at any bends. which means you'll be that much more likely to lose fuel pressure go lean and blow up your car.
Why do you think the nhra requires less than 12" total of rubber hose on a car.
could it possibly be because people have DIED because of rubber hose?
 

willizm

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given the quality of your builds, do yourself a favor and get some braided steel lines for added safety. Fuel systems are not something you should take lightly. Also stop buying useless shit like chutes and bump boxes unless you are actually in need of those components. If you are worried about stopping a 110mph trapping car with a chute then you are concentrating your efforts in the wrong area.
 

DynaSlim

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[MENTION=53]Turbocharged400sbc[/MENTION] what about that push lock shit? Do they accept that over 3 foot?

"Push-Lok hose can handle up to 250psi and works on most oil, water and fuel applications. Synthetic rubber tube is covered with one layer of textile braid combined with another rubber cover. Temp range -40 to 212*F, and fits to our popular 'Push-Lite' Fittings!"
 

lastls1

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If you have an exhaust dump or if this hose runs anywhere near the exhaust, manifolds or otherwise you will exceed 212 degrees in a matter of minutes after start up.

Even my metal lines and things are wrapped with exhaust wrapping and stuff near my cut out. (Since it's on an angle)
 
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DynaSlim

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Yeah I was planning on using a shielding device near the exhaust. But newho.... braided line is just rubber hose wrapped in metal braid. So you're saying that's acceptable to use for the entire fuel system? I'll have to order it off eBay since they charge an arm and rib cage at WC for that shit.

And no I'm not using metal lines, I'd have to buy all new fittings again and tools just to bend it and make the flairs.

Either push lock or braided so I can use my fittings with clamps.
 

DynaSlim

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Tell me tell me now! I can order this shit today and while I'm finishing everything else it'll be on its way.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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you'll find not many racers use push lock hoses and fittings. You only save a few bucks over the much stronger braided stainless or braided nylon sheath hoses and clamping fittings.

Especially on the fuel system.
Too prone to leaking/seepage.

I see em far more often on other systems like manifold/crankcase vacuum and pressure hoses....coolant
it is far stronger and durable than the rubber hose you're using but for the cost you might as well get the proper parts that you won't have to worry about it.

Our fork lift has em on the coolant and propane system...both leak. Gotta close the tank every night...lest the propane leak out....thats at 7 psi too iirc.
 

DynaSlim

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1:5 FUEL SYSTEMS
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside
of the driver’s compartment and within the confines of the frame
and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be
located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area on
rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles, and on opposite side of
flywheel/housing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicles. Fuel
pressure gauge isolators, with steel braided line, may be mounted
on firewall.
Tanks: When permitted by class regulations, fuel tanks located
outside body and/or frame must be enclosed in a steel tube frame
constructed of minimum 1 1/4-inch O.D. x .058 chromoly or .118
mild steel tubing. All fuel tanks must be isolated from the driver’s
compartment by a firewall, completely sealed to prevent any fuel
from entering the driver’s compartment. All fuel tanks must have a
pressure cap and be vented outside of body. A positive-locking
screw-on fuel tank cap is mandatory on all open-bodied cars.
Insulated fuel tanks prohibited. When used, fuel cells must have a
metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of body
lines or trunk floor, excluding hose connection area in rear. Nonmetallic fuel cells or tanks must be grounded to frame.*
Lines: All non-OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data
recorder lines) must be metallic, steel braided, or NHRA-accepted
“woven or woven-pushlock.” A maximum of 12 inches total (front to
rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for
connection purposes only; individual injector nozzle and motorcycle
fuel lines are excluded. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the
flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16-inch length of
steel tubing, 1/8-inch-minimum wall thickness, securely mounted as
a protection against fuel-line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed
in the driveshaft tunnel. It is mandatory that fuel lines passing
supercharger drive belts be steel braided, NHRA-accepted woven
or woven-pushlock, or be enclosed in protective steel tubing. A
current list of NHRA-accepted woven or woven-pushlock fuel lines
is available on*NHRA.com. All NHRA-accepted fuel lines must use
ends that are specifically designed for the type of fuel line being
used. No hose clamps allowed on NHRA-accepted fuel lines.
Pumps/Valves: Cars with non-OEM-type mechanical fuel pumps
must have a quick-action fuel-shutoff valve within easy reach of
driver and located in the main fuel line between the fuel tank and
the carburetor and/or injectors. Fuel recirculation systems not part
of normal fuel/pump system prohibited. All cars in Stock, Super
Stock, Competition, and Pro Stock must be equipped with a
positive-lock drain valve located between the fuel tank and the
carburetor(s) or fuel injector to facilitate removal of fuel samples for
fuel-check purposes.
 

DynaSlim

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Thanks. I'm just gonna focus on getting the car out and running. All this braided line and needing special fittings, after I already spent weeks of headaches looking for the right fittings and buying a whole bunch of rubber line is getting depressing.

I'll look into it but for now I got other things to do before this starts to set me back.
 

lastls1

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All I read there was DO THE DAMN JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME YOUR CAR HAS BEEN DOWN FOR 80 YEARS ALREADY WHATS ANOTHER YEAR OF CORRECT WORKMANSHIP

That and the season/summer is almost over anyway sadly
 
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DynaSlim

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Says I can't use worm style clamps, you think the non pinch clamps still be ok? They still tighten with a screw tho.
 

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