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🔧 Technical Fuel cells?
- Thread starter Mr_Roboto
- Start date
Fuel cell is going to nickel and dime you to death with fittings and other stuff. Have put 2 of them in our lemons cars and I am glad I wasn't the owner of the car paying for all the stuff to make it work/fit and be safe.
I assume by track you mean drag strip?
You would use an intake like this instead of the stock cap.
I assume by track you mean drag strip?
You would use an intake like this instead of the stock cap.
I was thinking stock location. Being a liftback the Eagle isn't exactly the greatest setup to put a cell in due to the lack of a trunk and related fire walling.
I'm taking that as a no on putting a filler neck into the side of the cell?
Is that aluminized exhaust pipe?
I've got a feeling this stock tank will nickel and dime me too, especially trying to make it suitable to use with EFI. It needs to be pulled, cleaned, likely a fresh sender and coated internally. I have a new sender unit that has a 255 Walbro built on it with that Holley matting I'm kind of wishy washy on. It's meant for a returnless setup so I have to do something with that as well, although admittedly it will probably just be a hole into the tank and related bung.
I'm taking that as a no on putting a filler neck into the side of the cell?
Is that aluminized exhaust pipe?
I've got a feeling this stock tank will nickel and dime me too, especially trying to make it suitable to use with EFI. It needs to be pulled, cleaned, likely a fresh sender and coated internally. I have a new sender unit that has a 255 Walbro built on it with that Holley matting I'm kind of wishy washy on. It's meant for a returnless setup so I have to do something with that as well, although admittedly it will probably just be a hole into the tank and related bung.
I wouldn't do the exhaust pipe part. We ran something like this in our rx7. I wouldn't be super keen on having a fuel cell in the car without a firewall. I know I can't race in track days with that even if I have one of the more expensive fuel cells with a bladder.
If the aluminum cell fits in the OEM area you can easily have an aluminum tube the diameter of your fill hose made and welded to the side of it with no issues with The Tech Guys.
Asphalt or mastic impregnated felt is typically what's used as an isolator although a high density foam rubber would work just as well even probably 3M weather stripping from the hardware store would do okay.
If you're doing anything to it f****** stick with the aluminum one. The polymers are not easy to modify. The aluminum one if you want you can have them change aspects of it to make it fit in the OEM location better.
Asphalt or mastic impregnated felt is typically what's used as an isolator although a high density foam rubber would work just as well even probably 3M weather stripping from the hardware store would do okay.
If you're doing anything to it f****** stick with the aluminum one. The polymers are not easy to modify. The aluminum one if you want you can have them change aspects of it to make it fit in the OEM location better.
No, that's part of the problem otherwise I'd buy one and get it sumped and be done with it. The guy I bought the car from said he got it boiled once and had some solder work done on it so that makes me leery of doing it again.
Give them a buzz. They've done some tanks for us, that we didn't think were going to be salvageable.
Lake Zurich Radiator & Air Conditioning Service Inc Lake Zurich
847-438-4334 - FREE cooling system inspection. Automotive repairs. Air conditioning services.
www.lakezurichradiator.com
That was kind of not the answer I was expecitng. 
Point taken, there's a radiator place locally that says they do classic car work. I'll toss a dime at them and see if they can help me out. Sounds like even converting this to EFI will be less of a pain in the ass than doing a cell by the way you folks are making it out.
Point taken, there's a radiator place locally that says they do classic car work. I'll toss a dime at them and see if they can help me out. Sounds like even converting this to EFI will be less of a pain in the ass than doing a cell by the way you folks are making it out.
Well, shit went and took the tank to be boiled. They said I would be in some bank for it because it needed cut and welded. Twice as much as a cell by its self would cost.
I was told they had it boiled before and it was not coated so I suspect they ate the galvanizing off via caustic soda and it ate its self alive.
May not get a choice in this it's going to be a headache.
Need to call Rhodes tomorrow and get a measurement or two.
I was told they had it boiled before and it was not coated so I suspect they ate the galvanizing off via caustic soda and it ate its self alive.
May not get a choice in this it's going to be a headache.
Need to call Rhodes tomorrow and get a measurement or two.
Do you have a picture of this bugger? There are plenty of aftermarket fuel cells that fit in Factory locations that might be easily modified
Edit
I didn't realize you were probably talking about roads tanks and they would probably be able to find something existing they could make work or go straight custom
Edit
I didn't realize you were probably talking about roads tanks and they would probably be able to find something existing they could make work or go straight custom
I think the cell in the op would fit pretty well. Would likely need to adjust the straps and add some spacers to put it 2" or so down. Besides that I would get a 45 filler and couple it to the stock neck and may well be done based on my measurements. I may need a hint of clearance in the filler neck area of the floor pan but 50/50 on that now.
Wondering about electrolysis at this point. Not a lot to lose here I think.
Okay, so I went forward with the cell install. I put stuff in my build thread about it, but reader's digest is it's in the OEM position and using a custom fill neck. I have some adjustments to that in the future, but meh it's good enough for the rest of the year which will likely be 100 miles of driving if that.
Overall I rate this project a moderate pain in the ass and expense (estimated below) but worth it. (inc shipping, rough costs)
steel plate for sender-~$10
Rhodes Cell-~$270
Fittings-~$50
level sender-~$40
1.5" weld el-$10
frame steel-~$45
material to prevent metal to metal contact w/cell-$15
Fuel neck hose-$20
fuel filler (boat)-$20
total-$480
I would have loved to have gotten a $175 fuel tank/sender but hey some times you don't get a choice in things. What I've gained in this is I can run any fuel system I want to, period. It doesn't matter if it's a big ass Maggie/Weldon, a mechanical carb pump as I am now or an in tank Aeromotive 340 like I'm planning to. I can also readily drain this in the winter and change fuels if I want to say dumping in race fuel or E85.
One more thing I almost forgot to add. The information Summit, Rhodes etc. had for the 18-0117 cell was INCORRECT. They say it's all 8AN but I had an 8AN vent, a 10AN vent, a 10AN and a 12AN bung in the sump. I am glad I bought fittings after, it would have required returning them otherwise. I'm not sure if this was an isolated thing e.g. I got a one off tank or if the specs are wrong.
Overall I rate this project a moderate pain in the ass and expense (estimated below) but worth it. (inc shipping, rough costs)
steel plate for sender-~$10
Rhodes Cell-~$270
Fittings-~$50
level sender-~$40
1.5" weld el-$10
frame steel-~$45
material to prevent metal to metal contact w/cell-$15
Fuel neck hose-$20
fuel filler (boat)-$20
total-$480
I would have loved to have gotten a $175 fuel tank/sender but hey some times you don't get a choice in things. What I've gained in this is I can run any fuel system I want to, period. It doesn't matter if it's a big ass Maggie/Weldon, a mechanical carb pump as I am now or an in tank Aeromotive 340 like I'm planning to. I can also readily drain this in the winter and change fuels if I want to say dumping in race fuel or E85.
One more thing I almost forgot to add. The information Summit, Rhodes etc. had for the 18-0117 cell was INCORRECT. They say it's all 8AN but I had an 8AN vent, a 10AN vent, a 10AN and a 12AN bung in the sump. I am glad I bought fittings after, it would have required returning them otherwise. I'm not sure if this was an isolated thing e.g. I got a one off tank or if the specs are wrong.
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