Frank's random auction purchases/ daily driver work trucks thread.
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Looks like it was done a while ago and is still together so I’m hoping it was right. Engine was out for sure, so my hope is it got the works. I’ll get some more, haven’t had time for anything lately. Hoping to get my tools moved in over the weekend.
Some more pictures. Hoping to get time to do some rust repair on the body before I get tools moved in but I’m not sure if that’ll happen.
This truck was definitely more of a project than I was hoping for, but the price was very very right. Cost about $8,000 less than I sold my last one for so I have some funds to devote to it and still be ahead. Biggest thing for me was that the PTO, crane, compressor, outriggers, etc all functioned 100%. I can deal with rust repair.
This truck was definitely more of a project than I was hoping for, but the price was very very right. Cost about $8,000 less than I sold my last one for so I have some funds to devote to it and still be ahead. Biggest thing for me was that the PTO, crane, compressor, outriggers, etc all functioned 100%. I can deal with rust repair.
And as far as the truck goes, 32 engine hours of plowing over two days. Only issue was a blown fuse from an emissions sensor connector I didn’t seal up well enough when it got how dare you’d.
Ideally the white chevy is going to be doing the heavy lifting as a plow truck, but at least this one is set up as a spare. I got the chevy off the trailer and in the barn before the snow came, so I’ll spend some time this week while it’s too cold to do anything else worthwhile getting it up and going and start putting some miles on it.
Ideally the white chevy is going to be doing the heavy lifting as a plow truck, but at least this one is set up as a spare. I got the chevy off the trailer and in the barn before the snow came, so I’ll spend some time this week while it’s too cold to do anything else worthwhile getting it up and going and start putting some miles on it.
I recognize that severe rear wheel arch rot! How are the rockers? Mine are gone but the cab corners are rock solid.
Rockers are very solid actually, no real rust to speak of at all. I’m going to pull all the plugs in the spring and fluid film the shit out of the inner rockers. The truck isn’t from the Midwest. It’s a very “clean” type of rust where there’s no major bubbling or heavy scale. What’s gone is gone, what’s still there is mint.
I just found a rust free white 8’ bed for the other truck pictured in front of the harbor freight for $200, so, I’m hoping to get another similar deal on a short bed for this one. Tint, a light detail and a new bed and it’ll be a super nice truck.
I’d really like to get my bed fixed (as many know), but it is cost prohibitive. The couple of times I was able to get quotes, they were as much as the value of the truck. Find another bed and get that cleaned up and painted to match. Or cut the sides off at the weld seam in the bed, then replace the inner and outer skins.
Don’t even bother fixing the existing bed. Find one your color or get it painted. You probably care more than we do with these work trucks, I got a rust free 8’ bed for $200 because it has some dings and dents. The bed on it is rotted bad and completely caved in on the drivers side behind the rear wheel from a trailer jackknife when it lost control
It lives! Ended up being a fair bit of diagnostics to get it going but we’re in the home stretch.
I’ll like the YouTube videos I made on it once the last one finishes uploading.
I’ll like the YouTube videos I made on it once the last one finishes uploading.
All electrical in some capacity, but a fair bit due to previous owners.
These trucks are notorious for electrical issues compared to those of the past. The wiring is so brittle in these trucks too from my experience.
Here’s the first video, second one isn’t uploading as fast as I thought. I touch on the electrical issues far better than I could type out
Running/driving now.
It has the weirdest engine noise though. 90% sure it’s valvetrain but it is not present from cold start until the truck gets to operating temp. It will then stay present until you drive it. After 30 seconds of driving it goes away and will stay away as long as you keep driving or aren’t stopped for less than 3-4 minutes. It will then return until you do so again.
I did an ATF flush followed by oil change this AM. Was 1qt low so I topped off last qt with Lucas oil stabilizer later in the day. No change before or after Lucas as far as noise goes, but did get a 5psi ish increase in oil pressure across the board.
It has the weirdest engine noise though. 90% sure it’s valvetrain but it is not present from cold start until the truck gets to operating temp. It will then stay present until you drive it. After 30 seconds of driving it goes away and will stay away as long as you keep driving or aren’t stopped for less than 3-4 minutes. It will then return until you do so again.
I did an ATF flush followed by oil change this AM. Was 1qt low so I topped off last qt with Lucas oil stabilizer later in the day. No change before or after Lucas as far as noise goes, but did get a 5psi ish increase in oil pressure across the board.
I’ll try that.
At this point I’m completely okay with putting a motor in this thing because I’m so far ahead on it. But when it isn’t ticking it runs great, so, if I could free up whatever is being problematic I would love that.
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