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Fox Body Coyote Swap. Anyone in here done one?

FESTER665

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Everything is dependent on my current work situation with all this crap going on so a "set date" is still up in the air.

Its the full t56 magnum setup,quicktime bellhousing,twin disk rxt, ect only about 1k miles on it, no track passes yet, but definitely street pulls lol

Definitely keep me in the loop. In the meantime I'll try to hold off on buying the transmission. :bowrofl:
 

FESTER665

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1588954200040.png


This isnt terrible, maybe I should get a hold of them and see if they would do $4k
 

GLADIATOR

aka STROKE-KING
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Disclaimer: nottinbuttlove for you and your fox

IMHO: you are ditching a dart block SBF for a junkyard F150 motor to go Into a holy grail fox body chassis????? Please for the love of GOD put a crate coyote or something nice. I rather spend $10k on a sealed engine instead of putting money in a junk yard F150 boat anchor. ?
 

Kensington

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Disclaimer: nottinbuttlove for you and your fox

IMHO: you are ditching a dart block SBF for a junkyard F150 motor to go Into a holy grail fox body chassis????? Please for the love of GOD put a crate coyote or something nice. I rather spend $10k on a sealed engine instead of putting money in a junk yard F150 boat anchor. ?

The F150 Coyote's are not even close to boat anchors....You've got guys running low 12's NA in Coyote F-150's.
 
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I bug Ed enough on Facebook, don't need to do it on here as well. :bowrofl:
Too late now. LOL

So you wanna Coyote swap eh? I can certainly tell you what not to do. I'm almost done with my build and am about to turn the key. I know, I know, do a build thread. I will. I promise. :)
 

FESTER665

TCG Elite Member
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Apr 13, 2008
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Disclaimer: nottinbuttlove for you and your fox

IMHO: you are ditching a dart block SBF for a junkyard F150 motor to go Into a holy grail fox body chassis????? Please for the love of GOD put a crate coyote or something nice. I rather spend $10k on a sealed engine instead of putting money in a junk yard F150 boat anchor. ?

Coyote swapped foxes are selling for a fuck ton more than SBF versions and its not even close.

As mentioned theyre just two totally different builds.

F150 motor is the same as the Mustang version minus a few little things.

I was at a point in my build where if I sold my shit I can be in a nice coyote swap for the same amount I had left to spend on the dart build.

I get what youre saying, I just think the coyote will be a much better fit for me now.

Coyote swaps werent even a thing when I started buying all the dart stuff.
 

FESTER665

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Too late now. LOL

So you wanna Coyote swap eh? I can certainly tell you what not to do. I'm almost done with my build and am about to turn the key. I know, I know, do a build thread. I will. I promise. :)

Oh get the fuck out of here. You knew damn well this was going to happen when I came over to visit and see your build. :bowrofl:

You went with all the MMR stuff for the chain guides and all that right? I was surfing around on their site today.
 

GLADIATOR

aka STROKE-KING
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Mar 29, 2004
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New Lenox IL
Coyote swapped foxes are selling for a fuck ton more than SBF versions and its not even close.

As mentioned theyre just two totally different builds.

F150 motor is the same as the Mustang version minus a few little things.

I was at a point in my build where if I sold my shit I can be in a nice coyote swap for the same amount I had left to spend on the dart build.

I get what youre saying, I just think the coyote will be a much better fit for me now.

Coyote swaps werent even a thing when I started buying all the dart stuff.
I got no problem with the coyote swap!!! Just put a decent coyote engine in there.
 

FESTER665

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Apr 13, 2008
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I got no problem with the coyote swap!!! Just put a decent coyote engine in there.

Theyre all the same thing.

Whats a decent coyote? An Aluminator?

I'm not spending $10k on a engine when my HP goals would be easily accomplished by a $4000 engine that is used for a few miles. I just did the expensive motor and its been sitting on an engine stand for god knows how long.
 
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One thing to note on motors and some of it has been said already.

- Gen 2 or 3 is the way to go.
- F150 motors use a different firing order, but you can swap the cams.
- I'm not sure about Gen 3 but in Gen 1/2 the F150 Coyote had a lower compression so if you're going to run NA you'll make less power. If you're going to run boost you'll need to throw more at it.
- If you're going to run flex fuel, be careful. The tune is CRITICAL to it working correctly and personally I don't like the way it works so I avoided it.
- If you're using a standalone like I am, you can run a flex fuel sensor and not rely on your knock sensors and O2 sensors to know if you've got good ethanol content.
- Day 1 upgrade for the Yote... Billet oil pump gears and crank gears. Other than that the internals should be fine. The pulse ring upgrade is easy and cheap to keep your timing right on the high end. I'm an idiot an did chain guides, chains, tensioners, head studs, and all ARP bolts on the top end. Why? I don't know. Because I took the heads off to do studs and got into a "I'm already here so why not" thing.

Just my 0.02 but I'd say Gen 2/3 Mustang motor. No flex fuel unless you're running a standalone and a proper flex fuel sensor. I can send you a video of a new Gen 2 crate motor tossing 2 rods on a flex fuel tune... that I took with my phone. :)

As for other things...

K member, oil pan, and headers all need to fit right or you'll have problems. If you're going MM for K member, ask them what they recommend. I went Team Z and am very happy but my set up is a little more drag strip than street car. If I recall correctly you're going IRS in the back so I'd say go with MM up front too.

HTH
 

FESTER665

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Apr 13, 2008
39,959
66,089
Streamwood
One thing to note on motors and some of it has been said already.

- Gen 2 or 3 is the way to go.
- F150 motors use a different firing order, but you can swap the cams.
- I'm not sure about Gen 3 but in Gen 1/2 the F150 Coyote had a lower compression so if you're going to run NA you'll make less power. If you're going to run boost you'll need to throw more at it.
- If you're going to run flex fuel, be careful. The tune is CRITICAL to it working correctly and personally I don't like the way it works so I avoided it.
- If you're using a standalone like I am, you can run a flex fuel sensor and not rely on your knock sensors and O2 sensors to know if you've got good ethanol content.
- Day 1 upgrade for the Yote... Billet oil pump gears and crank gears. Other than that the internals should be fine. The pulse ring upgrade is easy and cheap to keep your timing right on the high end. I'm an idiot an did chain guides, chains, tensioners, head studs, and all ARP bolts on the top end. Why? I don't know. Because I took the heads off to do studs and got into a "I'm already here so why not" thing.

Just my 0.02 but I'd say Gen 2/3 Mustang motor. No flex fuel unless you're running a standalone and a proper flex fuel sensor. I can send you a video of a new Gen 2 crate motor tossing 2 rods on a flex fuel tune... that I took with my phone. :)

As for other things...

K member, oil pan, and headers all need to fit right or you'll have problems. If you're going MM for K member, ask them what they recommend. I went Team Z and am very happy but my set up is a little more drag strip than street car. If I recall correctly you're going IRS in the back so I'd say go with MM up front too.

HTH

- I'm definitely leaning towards Gen 2. Gen 3 shit is still stupid expensive, even for used parts. New engine is $8500'ish.

- All the research Ive done so far was that the differences between F150 and Mustang was the intake camshafts, 10.5:1 compression instead of 11:1, smaller oil pump gears, cast iron exhaust manifold, and a different tune.
Realistically, I would look into doing camshafts anyway, dont mind losing the half point of compression, was going to do a new oil pump with billet gears in either engine, already have long tubes, and the car will be tuned by PBD, Lund, etc. anyway so who gives a shit about the tune? :dunno:

- Correct, Gen 1 and Gen 2 Mustangs were 11:1, while the F150 was 10.5:1. Gen 3 both the Mustang and the F150 are 12:1

- Not sure on flex fuel yet. If I can reach my goals on 93 octane Ill do that, if I need to go e85, I might do that. In either case I will likely pick one and stick with it.

- All computer duties will be done through a ford control pack. Not doing a standalone, not going to try to tune on a laptop, etc.

- Im definitely planning on doing the oil pump gears and crank gear for sure. I was debating doing the chain guides and all that for the same reason. Its already opened up, might as well. Our goals are totally opposite one another though. Youre doing a whole lotta boost and will have much higher power numbers.

- Yeah, the car already has the 2004 IRS in it with the whole boat of FTBR parts thrown into it, I'll definitely be going MM K-member. They changed the design in 2018 for the newer coyotes so I have to make sure I get the newest MMKM-2.1 model from them so I'm sure its the best fit for coyote motors.
 

1quick

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Jan 29, 2008
26,554
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coal city
looks like a gen3 truck motor can be had for 3-4K, for that money I’d definitely go that route opg’s crank sprocket I’ve herd you need to upgrade valve springs in the truck motors if you want to spin them around 8k rpm and you might as well to take advantage of the mustang intake add headers and have palm beach dyno get you either a flex tune or a dedicated e85 tune you will make 450-500whp with those basic bolt ons and e85

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