BUILD Ford truck 460

10sec

I haz dat teddy bear smile.
TCG Blue
Jul 26, 2008
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I think it should be mandatory for you to put estimated completion dates on your build threads. From what I see, engine still in truck, other engine sort of taken apart, I give this at least 5-6yrs before completion. Please change the title to reflect this, thanks.
 
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Turbocharged400sbc

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TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
I think it should be mandatory for you to put estimated completion dates on your build threads. From what I see, engine still in truck, other engine sort of taken apart, I give this at least 5-6yrs before completion. Please change the title to reflect this, thanks.
I hope zipties violate you while you sleep.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
I still got to figure out whether I go with a quarter inch npt screw in like the Canton dipstick or whether I go ahead and install the factory Ford thread and dipstick pocket or I end up drilling the block for the earlier style dipstick.

Cheap Summit oil pan plus water jetting my own baffle and I save nearly 250 bucks.
Gotta test fit with lexan.

1/2npt tur.... "dipstick"/drain bungs.....
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Turbocharged400sbc

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TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
I found an old steel Ford taurus 3.0 trans cooler fitting that has the 3/8-in Hardline flare that I can weld into the side of the pan.

I'm going to probably weld it and a quarter inch npt bung so I can use either

All my years of working on plow trucks has led me to the thought that water jetting the square window and installing the factory dipstick pocket for the later efi460s/idi diesel.....is not the smart way to go.
 
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Turbocharged400sbc

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TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
Oh and I'm still on the fence over twin hx35 or twin HX 40s with machined out 35 t3 turbine housings. Turbine is only 4mm larger on the 40...but it's t4 16.4cm^ is way huge vs 12cm t3......

Only thing that might make it more drivable would be to just use the two hx35s with their smaller compressor Wheels and turbine Wheels....

This is what our handsome Messiah/ Double D has suggested to me....and he's obviously wrong because bigger is better
40 on left
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Turbocharged400sbc

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TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
They fit but the EFI manifold ports sit up higher on the head as far as the ports in relation to the bolt pattern.

Everything I found so far has the car passenger manifold sitting out farther from the Block farther than the truck as people who have to use the car passenger manifold in trucks tend to have to notch the frame to be able to put the exhaust pipe on.

The EFI engine is basically a factory High Port 460. You can't swap anything to the older engine without using the newer heads on the older block. It also means the intake manifolds has no aftermarket options without lots of reworking.

It's where I basically said f*** it and decided that Godzilla's old man, needs a couple of snails ta actually breathe.

I need to buy another NPD catalog mines at least 10 years out of date
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
The pan halfway done.
I decided I'm going to add a crank scraper rail across the passenger side to help make sure no oil gets dragged upward.

Double D ordered me my dipstick, oil pump and pick up so I will be able to continue forward on the baffle but I'm already looking at doing a fairly simple trap door setup at the rear now....

Front sump engines suck for oil control.

This Dirt Cheap $89 car oil pan now has the truck drain plug location.
2x 3/4npt "inspection ports"
1/4 npt dipstick port for the Canton dipstick
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Turbocharged400sbc

3800 > ALL
TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
Still some more fine-tuning on the dipstick
tube hole but I'm getting there.

I Mig welded in the trap door baffle and immediately regretted it. I did at least tack down the top plate so I can TIG weld it later.

Don't mind the gaps and s*** this is one of the cheapest pans I could find

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Turbocharged400sbc

3800 > ALL
TCG Blue
Jun 16, 2007
30,889
5,215
hangover park IL
Yeah it had a fair bit of fluffy rust on a few of the bores...I managed to clean I'd say 80% of the fluffy s*** off wiping it down and worked it back and forth rinsing with fogging oil.

Turns over good, consistent effort turning it over I'm about to check see if I have compression on each hole as I turn it

I plan on buttoning it up and priming the oil system while turning it over all of the cam lobes look like 100,000 Mi flat tappet the factory double roller timing chain is fairly worn but intact it has a brand new oil pump so I think it'll be fine as long as I'm doing zinc additive.

I need to bring the oxy acetylene setup home from work and spend a few hours trying to get these manifold bolts to back out. I've been fighting so many corroded in Fasteners from how long this f****** thing has been sitting