🔧 BUILD Ford Barra Build from Australia | 1998 Ford Falcon

Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
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417
Welcome to my 1998 Ford XH Falcon build, It's not exactly "Sloppy" In the traditional sense, Its more about applying some of Sloppy's techniques and mentality.
The goals for this car are fairly simple. Sleeper 10sec daily driver with a/c with the end goal being competing in Drag challenge (Aussie version of drag week)

It began life as a Stock Xh falcon ute with a 4L crossflow (Pre intech... Intech is pre barra), It started to missfire and of course the natural thought is to engine swap the car rather than fixing an ignition module.
A ba falcon wagon was acquired and the barra and loom were promptly slammed in the car, It also received a 3582r, some decapped n/a injectors and sent. (This was the true sloppy setup)

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It was quite lackluster and just nailed awesome burnouts due to blowing through factory springs at just under 8psi.
so what do you do instead of just getting some springs?
You buy a couple of BF green tops
6boost manifold
Plazmaman Plenum and Rail
and a Gt42

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Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
57
417
The new engine was prepped, It got a Empire billiet oilpump gear and backing plate
XR6Turbo Developments 12mm headstud kit
Crow Cams Valve springs
Areoflow Oil cooler sandwich plate
EFI hardware 3bar
Sonic 1000cc Injectors
Plazmaman Fuel Rail
Plazmaman BA/BF top half plenum
6boost t4 Manifold
Custom Headder tank delete
FG Rocker cover and coils
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Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
57
417
Once the engine got all buttoned up it was time to pull the Falcon apart.

The old motor got pulled and the subframe and complete front suspension dropped to make room for the new unit.

Inner guards got cut out and holes grinded over ready to be filled.

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The engine got placed back into the engine bay and bolted back onto the transmission to locate it forwad and back. then a spreadder bar was installed to hold the motor in form up top seeing as we no longer had any from of subframe in the car to bolt it too.

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We borrowed a shopping trolley from a local store and placed the new subframe on top so we could position it as we needed.

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Seeing as this subframe is out of a 2008 FG falcon it obviously needs some work to get in. We bolted the now floating engine to the subframe and started mesureing to find where the subframe was center in the car, Once we located it the guide pins were drilled into the rails and then the car was rested onto the subframe using the guide pins to locate it. The new subframe bolt holes were marked and drilled then installed. then the rest of the suspension bolts in and boom! you have a rolling car again that now has a factory barra sump, More room for dump pipes etc, better brakes, better suspension and a wider track.

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Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
57
417
Now time for the fun part! Fab work.
I orderd some intake vband clamps for the extra cleam engine bay and we began on the intercooler piping
Turbo got a 90 degree elbow welded to it and a plazmaclamp
Intake got a 5inch raceworks clamp welded too it
and the 3inch pipe runs began
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Then the intake. The raceworks clamp has an option to adapt from the alloy turbo to a Stainless pipe. So thats what we did.
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The coolers all got mounted too,
Intercooler
Powersteering cooler
Oil Cooler
Trans cooler
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The dump is going to be quite complicated on this thing. Its a 3.5 inch turbo outlet, going up to a 4inch dump then side exit 4inch boost activated loud valve and finally 3inch into the factory rear section
This is still not finished yet.
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Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
57
417
Well that’s fucking awesome! Nice work so far, keep us updated!
Thanks heaps, will do.

Holy shit. Barra on the board!

I look forward to updates!
I'll make sure to update. Having the biuld condensed in one thread is helpful.

pie cuts /welding look great.

It helps when your best mate is a professional fabricator. I need to get him to be more active on social media so I can tell people to go follow his work.
 
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Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
57
417
So I've been in the process of developing a board that adapts the original falcon command shift function to something I can use with buttons.
Originally they use a bunch of hall effect sensors to determine if your trying to shift up or down and to activate performance mode.
You can design a board that replaces this with resistors
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This means that I can potentially shift the auto in performance mode with paddle shifts. What a great idea!

My friend works and Mercedes Benz and got a AMG edition 1 steering wheel in that had the exact paddles I needed.
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I promptly ripped it apart and stole the paddles and began to cut up and mount them on the falcon wheel I have laying around.
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Once I finish with the expoxy I will sand and paint the clamshell to hopefully blend everything in.

The idea that I molested a highly expensive luxury car steering wheel to install the paddles on my shitty old falcon ute makes me warm and fuzzy inside.
 

Sprayin

Public Enemy #1
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This is awesome. I’m jealous of literally everywhere else in the world having I6’s to choose from that aren’t in BMW’s, rotted OBS’s or Jeeps.
I'm jealous of a place where they have a ute version of all the cool cars.
 

Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
57
417
In the process of shaving the bay atm. The factory ford bays are kinda ugly hence why we ended up remaking the inner guards
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That's what they look like when you remove the battery tray and over flow tank mount.

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As shown previously: the new inner guard.

The falcon also has a bunch of random indents in the rad support that I can't figure out what they were used for. So they need to be patched.
Normal people would buy some sheet metal and make a batch so they can body filler it.
Wheres the budget in that?

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The fire pit has a bunch of nail plates from off cuts of timber I brought home from work. Metal is metal right?
Right... Weld that sucker in there
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The body filler now has nice holes it can grab into now!
 

Anal Oats

Member
Aug 9, 2021
57
417
The FG subframe puts the rack in a further out spot than the factory xh one. So the steering shaft needs to be extended. I usually don't recommend this to most people unless you have a slight idea on how to weld.
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Essentially what I did was cut the factory shaft
And cut the extension rod. Then checked out each end of the shaft like this drawing
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Weld those together in the lathe to keep it straight then turn the welds down to the shaft diameter.

Then you sleeve
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Then what I did was drill through the sleeve and into the shaft for the plug welds.

Then weld the sucker up.
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And paint.

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The shaft diameter ended up growing quite a bit but I don't think it will fail at all.
Once again
Don't do this
 
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